1 Topic by Ski52

  • Ski52
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Topic: New build plate for SD-2

I have a vintage SD-2 that I bought new in 2013.  It works well, good prints - most of the time.  The problem is and has been the heated build plate.   I bought the machine originally without the heat option, not much was really known then about heat and the filaments.  At any rate, I've been thru 5 or 6 methods of heating the plate.  The one that works, the company that made the silicone heater is no longer around.  I bought the last one Azerate had some years ago.  I've been using a red PCB that takes 3 weeks to heat to about 90C max, held down to the aluminum plate with some hi-temp double sided tape all covered with a piece of glass held in place with clamps... It works - kinda.  I want to use a Calidum heater, but they only come in 8" sq.  I measured, and an 8"sq plate will fit inside a SD-2, although there would only be 6" available for use.  Will it work?  Has anyone tried? 
Suggestions appreciated.

Thanx
Ski

Ender 3 Pro

2 Reply by Ski52 (edited by Ski52 2018-05-04 01:31:50)

  • Ski52
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Re: New build plate for SD-2

Scratch that idea.  Just looked again - the mounting holes on the heat pad won't fit the 6" plate.....

Rats!

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3 Reply by justsomeguy

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

The Geeetech MeCreator is basically a SD2 clone and I believe their replacement build plate is about 6" and has the same hole spacing for the levelling screws. Please verify before ordering because I'm not 100% sure.

http://www.geeetech.com/mini-aluminum-b … p-878.html

They also make a heater for this plate.

I know they don't have the best reputation, but after a few mods I my MeCreator has been more reliable than the Solidoodle it stole its design from.

4 Reply by Ski52

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

Justsomeguy.  Thanx for the link, but it's not the build plate I need, it's the heater.  I have a bunch of aluminum 6" plates, both drilled and not drilled.  I can mount an 8" plate to theSD2 6" Z mechanism, but the Calidum heater is drilled for an 8" plate mounted to an 8" mechanism.  Without 6" mounting holes in the heater, it won't fit.  I could make it fit with a second plate mounted to the first, but I'm cutting into the already limited print height ( limited by the E3D).  I have a couple more ideas I may work on.  Not done - yet.

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5 Reply by justsomeguy

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

http://www.geeetech.com/mini-square-pcb … p-877.html

This is the bed heater.. I compared hole spacing with a tape measure and they seem the same but it's not the most accurate measurement.

6 Reply by Ski52

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

May have to research that one a little.  It is just like the one I use now without any holes.  The fifth pic has the measurements on it, although at least one is wrong.  Maay just have to check it out.  Thanx for the link.

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7 Reply by Ski52

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

Justsomeguy  - took a chance and ordered one of the plates.  I blew their picture up to match the actual board size, 152mm,  measured  and I beleive the holes will fit.  Geetech has a poor name, but I don't beleive they make the PCB.  I have 2 other boards from different manufacturers that are identical to Geetechs', cept for the holes so either they have copied somebody else, or they don't make the board.  It's coming from China, so I will probably be substantially older by the time I get it, but I'll keep ya posted. 
Thanx again
Ski
PS It's on sale - 15.00 - 18.00 with shipping.

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8 Reply by Ski52

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

Finally heard from geetech today - they sent the wrong part.  They sent a POS extruder.  So I fired off a couple of e-mails explaining their problem and asked that they have the courtesy to reply this year.   19 days to send a letter sized envelop is ludicrous....

Keep ya posted...
Ski

Ender 3 Pro

9 Reply by Ghostling

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Re: New build plate for SD-2

i heat mine with a red PCB and it gets up to 100C in under 5 minutes. I use a 550W PC power supply with single 40A rail. I'm still on the original sanguinololu so when i first used the PCB bed it burnt out one of the traces on the PCB going to the heatbed mosfet.
I bridged the trace with a 14Ga stranded copper wire and rewired the bed heater with the same 14Ga wire and it's been working awesome since.