Solidoodle 4 CoreXY rebuild (completed)

Did a testprint with benchy just now, due to the small size and minimum layer time the print speed never exceeded 110 mm/s, but the results aren't too bad. Cheap filament that I haven't dialed in the temperature for.

Short video here:
https://youtu.be/DDXMY-l8RRY

This was mostly to see that it coulld print without missing steps, but the outer perimeter were printed too fast so there is some ringing artifacts after corners. Outer perimiter printed at 75 mm/s, 0.1mm layer height. 300 mm/s travel. Infill 110 mm/s.

Wow.  Pretty dang sweet.  Smart layout and pro fabrication.

I now have serious bed envy.  Some 80-20 laying around.  Time to get to work.

I thought about painting mine with BBQ grill paint. Rustoleum makes a flat black high temp paint for outdoor grills and I have several cans. It's almost a dark grey actually... maybe I will give it a go.

The Rustoleum high temp paint is only good for, well, grills. It is hardly cosmetics pleasing and is a thicker oil based paint. Rustoleum does, however, make some other great flat paints. Just grab one of their Painters Choice paint+primer cans and it will bond well and give the finish you want. The heat in the build chamber will have little to no effect on the paint even though it is a thinner paint.

Yeah, I bought one of them for work a few days ago and hoping they'll honor the black friday coupon since it hasn't been fulfilled yet. I can't really justify the expense and time to make massive revisions to the work printer. For home use I've had my eye on the D-Bot for over a month. But first getting my SD2 upgraded would be a great step.

Will this work on a Solidoodle 3? I'm trying to figure out what to do with my old lass.

My current plan is to utilize your corexy and slightly modify the original z. 

I think I can resolve the stability issues with the platform and modify it to take a standard PCB heated bed. 

If this doesn't work out plan b will to implement a z axis similar to the E3D BigBox with 4 linear rails and 2 6mm leadscrews.  I would move all the z motors and electronics underneath the machine at that point too.  A much larger scope of work that won't really buy me much additional build volume so I would prefer plan a.

To start off I stripped down my SD4, removed all the bushings, and primered and painted the frame satin black.  This looks pretty nice with the light green PHA/PLA from Meltink that I'm printing all the parts in.

I tweaked your corexy design a little because I felt that the motor mounts were a little thin for the weight. This also allowed me to make the endstop mounting more sturdy.  The little pieces were too brittle for me in PHA/PLA.  I'll also add a couple of braces beneath the stepper motors to help take the weight off the mounts.

For the carriages I simplified the left and right a bit so they're just one piece now.

If you want an excellent heat bed, don't bother with the PCB type - get one of these: https://www.printitindustries.com/produ … -8-heatbed I bought one when they were first introduced and liked it so much I bought a 2nd one - both are on SD4s - no modifications needed - just remove the old silicone heater and apply the Hale (comes with adhesive already on it - peel the backing & stick it in place).

I would also recommend you upgrade the power supply (supernight, also available at PrintIt) as the stock units are not very robust.

And PLA is not the best choice for printer parts - far too brittle and it will fail in a fairly short time (been there, done that)