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Topic: not sticking to print bed

using abs material, and a glass bed. question is when do you put the glue stick on, when the print bed is cold or hot???    printer is a davinci pro, put a glass heat bed on it, like that better, no tape to mess with.  so why do the prints let lose??  any ideas??

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Re: not sticking to print bed

kb9asu wrote:

using abs material, and a glass bed. question is when do you put the glue stick on, when the print bed is cold or hot???    printer is a davinci pro, put a glass heat bed on it, like that better, no tape to mess with.  so why do the prints let lose??  any ideas??


You use the glue when the bed is cool. However the glue the machine comes with is garbage. You need to go out and get Elmers Purple glue sticks. They work much better. Even better if you can find Aquanet hairspray in your area, use it. Just mask the rods and extruder then spray a light coat over the glass. let it dry and it will be good for 10+ prints. Just let it cool fully and the part should lift right off.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

3 (edited by AZERATE 2015-12-15 01:14:07)

Re: not sticking to print bed

^purple elmers glue.
Alternatively, you could buy some Aqua Net Extra Hold or any other hairspray with vinyl copolymer...thats the sweet spot for ABS. Aqua Net and glass are a match made in maker heaven!

Glue may require a different bed temp setting in my experience. 85c for glue, 97-110c for hairspray with said contents.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: not sticking to print bed

Personally, I've gotten much better results with purple glue stick than hairspray but I seem to be the exception.  With glue stick, I don't have to mask off my rods and extruder so it makes a lot less mess and doesn't make your work area smell like a hair salon.  I put it on while the bed is heating and let it dry to a slight haze before starting the print.  I usually get impatient and start my print by the time the bed hits 70 C and even with a large case type print that takes up the whole bed, I can get no lifting.  Of course, the first step must be to level your bed and get the correct nozzle distance from the bed for the first layer, regardless of adhesion method.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

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Re: not sticking to print bed

I've used both over a long and tumultuous struggle with adhesion. As Az says, the temperature is important. If you can't get the bed up over 100C or so, the hairspray... IT DOES NOTHING!
http://i.imgur.com/7nq1NR7.jpg

Glue is a bit more tolerant.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: not sticking to print bed

grob wrote:

I've used both over a long and tumultuous struggle with adhesion. As Az says, the temperature is important. If you can't get the bed up over 100C or so, the hairspray... IT DOES NOTHING!
http://i.imgur.com/7nq1NR7.jpg

Glue is a bit more tolerant.


I run Aquanet at 75 on my bed which has been confirmed and parts stick like they are part of the bed until they cool then they slid or lift right off. Could also be the type of glass your bed has.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

7

Re: not sticking to print bed

My top temp is not confirmed, it's probably a bit under 100. I'd guess you're right.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

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Re: not sticking to print bed

Hi guys, its been awhile but I am back . I just bought and received this new build plate from GeckoTek 3d. I haven't printed anything really large yet but so far the results are good . No spray  no cleanup seems to hold very well so far. A bit pricy but worth it if it works well.  $39.00

SD3, RAMPS 1.4, Lawsy's carriages modified by me, 2 SSRs, E3D V6, 2 Power supplies, Independent monitoring of both power supplies (amps and volts) also extruder and bed temps, Blue Tooth connectivity, bearings in all axis & rotational points, Y axis direct drive.  Remotely controlled power box on / off . Gecko Tec build plate . Renamed FrankenDoodle

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Re: not sticking to print bed

slimstar2 wrote:

Hi guys, its been awhile but I am back . I just bought and received this new build plate from GeckoTek 3d. I haven't printed anything really large yet but so far the results are good . No spray  no cleanup seems to hold very well so far. A bit pricy but worth it if it works well.  $39.00


Price depends on your printer, for mine they want $85.. I think I will stick with swappable glass and hairspray.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

10

Re: not sticking to print bed

I just got the 200mm x 200mm square plate and use paper clips to hold as I did with my glass plates

SD3, RAMPS 1.4, Lawsy's carriages modified by me, 2 SSRs, E3D V6, 2 Power supplies, Independent monitoring of both power supplies (amps and volts) also extruder and bed temps, Blue Tooth connectivity, bearings in all axis & rotational points, Y axis direct drive.  Remotely controlled power box on / off . Gecko Tec build plate . Renamed FrankenDoodle

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Re: not sticking to print bed

I use 3DLAC, it's awesome.

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Re: not sticking to print bed

For PLA I use Aquanet Extra hold and I love the glass finish on the bottom of my prints. For ABS, Elmer's purple glue stick was the only thing the prevented my edges from warping.

FuseBox 1.5 CoreXY - e3dv6 - Graphic Smart Display
Solidoodle 2 - e3dv6 - Hobb Goblin - e3d Titan - lawsy carriages - Direct Drive Y Axis - T8 Z axis - OctoPi

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Re: not sticking to print bed

i use Aqua Net on glass for everything - PLA and ABS.

used to use the glue stick, but finally gave up on that - the hairspray lasts longer. wink

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
SD4 #3 - in the works ~ Folgertech FT-5, rev 1
Printit Industries Beta Tester - Horizon H1

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Re: not sticking to print bed

I have my bed set to 85 degree celcius. I put the glue on when its gets up to around 60-70 degrees.

If you have "biltema" in your country their gluestick works great