1 Topic by Heartlander

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Topic: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

Hi guys, Thousand Year Old Man here again. My SD3 is broken, the E3D extruder caught on the edge of something and snapped the plastic. It's been over a year now and I am having to relearn everything about these printers to get it back in shape and useful.

I have read and looked and tried not to bug you but I can't find what I need.

I need to download the correct E3D mount STL, with either the 30mm or 40mm fan duct (I have both fans on hand). I am also ordering the 5MM Goblin and downloading the tensioner arm for that then sending the STLs to a local print hub to get them made.

Now, I bought my E3D in August 2013, when we first started doing that mod so help me out here, is that a V5? Does it matter, as long as we know it definitely wasn't a V6? I don't want to make the wrong extruder mount for my version of E3D.

Thanks for helping me get back up to speed. Sorry for being a pain in the butt.

Pics of my extruder attached

Kent

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Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

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2 Reply by mdrVB6

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Re: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

Thats  V5 but it looks like you bent the heat break.  Not sure what you mean by damage to the plastic part.  I would suggest ordering a new E3D lite6 hot end and using this mount for it:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:431363

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

3 Reply by Heartlander

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Re: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

Thanks. The Thingi files say V6, but you say that's fine for the V5? And we're pretty sure the bent heat break is toast?

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

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4 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

The tension arm for the Hobb Goblin can be found here in the first post.
As a note, the Goblin has a smaller diameter which is why the new arm is needed. This also shifts the location of the hotend by about 2-3mm. However, I have had zero issues running on the mdroman extruder as is (with the new arm, of course).

This is a link for the mk5. It seems you were using the older mk4 model. While the extruder for the v6 can be used with the v5, I wouldn't recommend it. The fit is too tight and bows the back of the extruder body. This added force may inspire the hotend to sit cockeyed or even try to break free.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
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5 Reply by Heartlander

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Re: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

Okay, so I just ordered the V6 Lite and Goblin gear from Filastruder and sent the Thingi files off my local print hub to be printed. Hopefully that will get me back up and running again. As I understand it, the stock SD3 bearing will work fine with the goblin, correct?

I really appreciate your help.

Robox printer, HICTOP (Prusa i3 variant) Model 3DP17 printer, ELEK 2.5W laser engraver, AutoDesk 123D Design, Windows 10

Heartlander's Website

6 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

Heartlander wrote:

Okay, so I just ordered the V6 Lite and Goblin gear from Filastruder and sent the Thingi files off my local print hub to be printed. Hopefully that will get me back up and running again. As I understand it, the stock SD3 bearing will work fine with the goblin, correct?

I really appreciate your help.

Yep, but it won't swing free like you may be used to.  No problem just use your imagination during assembly.

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7 Reply by mdrVB6

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Re: Which version of the E3D extruder mount do I need?

Heartlander wrote:

Okay, so I just ordered the V6 Lite and Goblin gear from Filastruder and sent the Thingi files off my local print hub to be printed. Hopefully that will get me back up and running again. As I understand it, the stock SD3 bearing will work fine with the goblin, correct?

I really appreciate your help.


Sounds like you got everything you need.  Don't forget to calibrate your extruder steps per mm with the new hobb goblin installed.  On my printer that runs 1/16 microstepping, 1.8 degree motor and hobb goblin I am getting about 162 steps per mm but YRMV.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed