1 Topic by knucklbustr (edited by knucklbustr 2015-10-24 05:39:34)

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Topic: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Im starting my venture onto the dark side. Converting my 2yo Davinci 1.0 hot end to the E3D Lite.
Dont recall seeing this Lite model on MatterHackers site a month ago. Pictured- Direct 1.75 12v.

http://soliforum.com/i/?mXFvMLj.jpg

I was ready to machine my own E3D from plans, but at $38, why would you.
Free shipping, and it got here in 3 days.

I thought it would made out of aluminum, but its all stainless. There is no separate heat break, its all machined in one piece.
That may be a drawback when theres a clog.
Everything you need, thermistor, heat block, .4 nozzle, heater, screws, fan, fan mount etc.
The yellow pieces are my printed conversion parts for the Davinci carriage.

With the present mod setup Ive been able to print PLA, w/ patience. Plus Im sure that the original nozzle is worn.

Here goes...

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

2 Reply by evanalmighty

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

The PTFE tube goes all the way down to the nozzle so any clogged material would be in the nozzle and the tube, not the heatsink.  That's the main difference between the Lite and the normal all metal version.

3 Reply by DopeSkrit (edited by DopeSkrit 2015-10-24 10:01:05)

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

If you have issues with the idler / jamming use a custom carrage. It helped me alot. The hotend looks like a universal hotend so you could do a bowden setup.

Da Vinci 1.0A Blue | Codename: FreeVinci | E3D v6 Bowden Custom Carriage | Printing PLA, ABS and PETG using S3D
Fabrikator Mini Orange | Printing PLA using Cura
Only printing with sub 20 Euro filaments.

4 Reply by knucklbustr

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

DopeSkrit wrote:

If you have issues with the idler / jamming use a custom carrage. It helped me alot. The hotend looks like a universal hotend so you could do a bowden setup.

When you mean idler, the idler for the the extruder ? Why would it jam ?
Is there an alignment  prob of the hotend top to extruder wheels ?

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

5 Reply by DopeSkrit (edited by DopeSkrit 2015-10-24 21:04:20)

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

knucklbustr wrote:
DopeSkrit wrote:

If you have issues with the idler / jamming use a custom carrage. It helped me alot. The hotend looks like a universal hotend so you could do a bowden setup.

When you mean idler, the idler for the the extruder ? Why would it jam ?
Is there an alignment  prob of the hotend top to extruder wheels ?

Sometimes the wheel dont grap the filament probably because of the bad spring and the hotend has a bad ventilation and jams like my v6 did.

Da Vinci 1.0A Blue | Codename: FreeVinci | E3D v6 Bowden Custom Carriage | Printing PLA, ABS and PETG using S3D
Fabrikator Mini Orange | Printing PLA using Cura
Only printing with sub 20 Euro filaments.

6 Reply by knucklbustr

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Up and running.
Small problem w/ hot end cylinder fan mount, tight squeeze and had to trim.

Printed a thin wall abs, definitely more detail.

Printed a flat 3mm H w/ silver PLA. 42mm/sec.(according to repetier)
2nd print, PLA 3"x2", 3mm walled cylinder, 42mm/sec.
Both running a frt fan at less than half speed.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

7 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

I’m considering doing this - I’ve read some horror stories of making this change but your post seems to suggest it was not a hassle so, I have  a couple of questions:

For Reference, my machine is 1.0A ( 3DP01) with stock setup and 1.2.6 Firmware.

1. Will the E3D Lite run without mods to Firmware?
2. Do I need to install Repetier?  How did you install Repetier?
3. Did the Thermistor work without the hassle I’ve read about?
4. Which Thingverse parts did you print (there are a few and some have differences)?
5. Have you printed ABS with the E3D Lite and is there a significant improvement in print quality?

thanks

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

8 Reply by knucklbustr

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Mine is a 2yr old 1.0 3DP01. So, I waited 2yrs to do this E3D mod. At $38, I couldnt hit the buy button fast enough.
Printed PLA and ABS parts from 11mins to 7 hrs-no prob.
Total improvement w/ PLA. ABS some what, but then, using quality filament helps.
Not sure about using stock XYZware. But why use it, you barely have any control. That was the first mod done a week after I got it.

All of the Firmware/software info was from the Voltivo forum.
Dwld repetier FW and install w/ Arduino software. Take your time and read their instructions. Then reread before.

In place is an empty xyz filament can thats been chipped to forever. There are other creative ways.
The E3D Lite Direct 12v from Matterhackers works great.  PLA only needs frt fan for the small thin prints.
Installation items needed from Thingverse-http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:608560 Had to cut out alttle for the E3D fan shroud to fit.
Fairly straight forward. Also youtube video- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1peXWuH09Y8
Biggest problem was, cutting out my previously epoxied in bushings in my Left Y axis carriage. That took most of installation time. You wont have that prob. Your carriage should just pop off.
Next was installing the tiny thermistor with my fat fingers.
Printed PLA and ABS> temp steady.  XYZ hotend temp was up and down.

Most of my ownership time went into repairing the existing DAV mechanical issues.

Printing w/XYZ ABS is crap. So dont get disappointed about your machine.

DAV PLA Frt Fan at max -Y. Controlled by Repetier. Wired from original fan line 5v. E3D fan from 12V/5v?, always running, off mainboard(see Voltivo about it).
http://soliforum.com/i/?f8sFuyR.jpg

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

9 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

If you are using Repetier firmware then the chips in the stock cartridges are not even there. Repetier firmware does not read those ports that those chips connect to... You can use XYZ filamant if you have any left. The draw back is you won't know how much is in the cartridge or how much is left.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

10 Reply by knucklbustr

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

I had forgot about that.  Chipping the cart was the first thing I did. Prolly still have xyzware blocked on my network too.

Now that I have to do some more repairs, thinking about hacking the top off this printer and adding 4" height hmm
Printing any parts that I may need.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

11 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Thank you - good info/tips.

I use Simplify3D and zeroCart (for filament control) and LittleSnitch to block xyz from ever talking to my machine again!!!!

I did some maintenance and now the DaVinci prints the best its printed in almost one year (also slowed it down from 3000mm/m to 2000mm/m).  Yes - it rattled and shook but I never had a print problem that was related to speed). I don’t know about the other DaVinci models and production versions but my 3DP01 spec’s say it can run at 120mm/s [7200mm/m] - see attached.

I use only ABS because I like it for Harley and gun parts but am anxious to try PLA/other so I’m edging closer to biting the E3D bullet. I also want ability to change nozzles so, perhaps I’ll order parts today…

I have one more mod to make to reduce ‘loose’ table slop and if that eliminates the ringing I’ll jump for joy (although, it is a $500 printer and a non-perfect world).  I’ve watched the nozzle temp fluctuate 4ºC which may add to ringing but ringing is so consistent/cyclical that it must be mechanical (photo attached… Muzzle Brake printed at 2000mm/m).
http://soliforum.com/i/?1Uy6xSF.png

http://soliforum.com/i/?ftVE3Pk.jpg

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

12 Reply by knucklbustr (edited by knucklbustr 2015-11-02 17:38:47)

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Ck the Right Z bed platform open bronze bushings. Mine were so loose the whole platform would go side to side.
I used Devcon 2part Plastic cement.
Same w/ my Left Y axis open bushings, loose. But found out not good if the carriage needs to come apart later. duh
Then the Wctek tightness kit. Ck the Z screw coupler. The right bed adjuster . Also every single screw was tightened.  and list goes on...

120mm/s-good luck. Cartesian are not speed machines, especially DAV. Go for accuracy instead.

Havnt bought Simplyfy3D. Do not like its DRM.

DaV1.0  10/13
Repetier FW 0.92, Solidify3D

13 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Thanks

By hand, I can wiggle the table a little - the two vertical guide rods are held firmly but they do deflect (bend) when I wiggle table - Bushings appear ok and my temp fix is to Bias-load them with a light spring pulling to the right.

I noticed my short height parts have minimum ringing and, looking at taller parts, such as the one posted, show low ringing at bottom and increase as height increases.  So, even though my table is adjusted for uniform flow across full width/depth, I measured table height from machine base and there's a 0.036" height delta between left and right table side.  In other words, the table is tilted and via math/trig, that translates to a delta in the x/y direction that increases with height... (duh).  I may decide to baseline/tweak all mechanical's but, with consistent layer heights, I'm reluctant to mess with it.  It is a $500 machine...

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

14 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Part One -  installed Repetier 0.92

On a Mac with newer OSX (with JRE8), the JRE is not supported in Arduino 1.5 and though files look similar, using the 1.6.5 Mac version does not work (for me).  I followed this video (a Mac running Windows)  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rjuCvlnpB7M
Was easier to install it from Windows/VirtualBox on my Mac and that went well.  It is running.

Part Two: E3D_Lite next next week...

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

15 Reply by deuse

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Watching this with interest  smile

16 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Part Two - problems... Need Help

  • Repetier was running great for one week.

  • I installed the E3D_Lite.

  • Communication with printer is good.

  • Head and Bed move to correct positions.

PROBLEM - Thermistor (and thus, nozzle heating):

  • Extruder temp shows  -20 in LCD at boot up then switches to  'def'

  • Machine's piezo buzzer makes short quiet sound every 30 seconds (approx)

  • When issuing command (from Simplify3D)  M104 S40  as a test, feedback say's:

  • Extruder 0: Temp Sensor Defective

  • Printer set to Dry Run until Restart.

Naturally, restarting doesn't solve the problem. So,

  • I measured the resistance of the Thermistor: it's 116..2 ohms

  • I measured the resistance of the DaVinci Thermistor:  it's 115.0 ohms

  • * Therefore, thermistor is not broken.

  • I measured the heat cartridge:  it's 5.8 ohms

  • I measured the DaVinci heat cartridge: it's 5.something (don't remember but, appears to not be broken)

I set the PWM to 150 (per e3d instructions) - did not make a difference.

I set Repetier FW to use Table 8, per instructions for the specific thermistor - did not make a difference

I set #define EEPROM_MODE=0  via Arduino, saved and uploaded to eeprom - did not make a difference

I plugged in the original DaVinci wires to test Thermistor, nozzle - it no longer works. I get the same error.

I re-flashed Repeteir and tried orginal DaVinci - still no longer works...

I found a few posts with this problem but never see a solution...

Any ideas?  Thanks

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

17 Reply by evanalmighty

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Where did you take the measurements?  Did you trace the connection all the way back to the board?  Sounds like a wiring problem.

18 Reply by galaxy99 (edited by galaxy99 2015-11-11 21:00:00)

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

thanks.

Measured on physically installed nozzle but electrically unattached thermistor and cartridge.

Measured on physically uninstalled but electrically unattached - no opens or shorts with printer off.

Since the read temp value shows  -20, I changed the signal in Repetier to inverse the signal - no difference.

Also measured on physically installed thermistor and cartridge with power on - no opens/shorts

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

19 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

So if you have the thermistor installed and wired and you unplug the thermistor cable from the mainboard and measure across the cable leads you get around 100K at room temp?

Once you confirm that reading, then measure between each cable lead and the frame of the machine to make sure the cable is not shorted some where.

A reading of -20 at room temp indicates an open between the thermistor and the processor on the mainboard. If all cable measurements are correct then that means the open is actually on the motherboard between the connector and the processor or maybe in the processor it's self. If you are sure that all your firmware settings are correct, then this is the only conclusion.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

20 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Correct - reads 115k.

Disconnected thermistor and measured wires back to board - no shorts to frame.

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

21 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

galaxy99 wrote:

Correct - reads 115k.

Disconnected thermistor and measured wires back to board - no shorts to frame.


I actually wanted you to measure from the mainboard to make sure the thermistor it's self was not shorting to the heater block or anything.. But you could measure that as well if either thermistor wire is missing its Teflon sleeve or the sleeve has moved and is allowing the bare wire to touch the heater block at, in, or near the mounting hole or anywhere else in the thermal zone then you will get a similar reading.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

22 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Ha ha ha - sometimes a guy feels pretty stupid!!!  I switched the two connectors on the little PCB and now all is well.
I read about this blunder http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-peersu … t?start=80 the last posting...

It's now reading 84deg at room temp so may need to fiddle with thermistor table - recommendation?

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

23 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

galaxy99 wrote:

Ha ha ha - sometimes a guy feels pretty stupid!!!  I switched the two connectors on the little PCB and now all is well.
I read about this blunder http://voltivo.com/forum/davinci-peersu … t?start=80 the last posting...

It's now reading 84deg at room temp so may need to fiddle with thermistor table - recommendation?


That should be just a standard thermistor so it should be type 1 but could be type 5. Not sure why 8 would be used...

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.

24 Reply by galaxy99

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Type 8 is listed in FW info - that is the exact thermistor in the parts list but, it's displaying 84deg's so it must not be correct.  I'll play with it...
Here's the list from Repetier:
// What type of sensor is used?
// 1 is 100k thermistor (Epcos B57560G0107F000 - RepRap-Fab.org and many other)
// 2 is 200k thermistor
// 3 is mendel-parts thermistor (EPCOS G550)
// 4 is 10k thermistor
// 8 is ATC Semitec 104GT-2
// 5 is userdefined thermistor table 0
// 6 is userdefined thermistor table 1
// 7 is userdefined thermistor table 2
// 50 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 51 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 52 is userdefined thermistor table 0 for PTC thermistors
// 60 is AD8494, AD8495, AD8496 or AD8497 (5mV/degC and 1/4 the price of AD595 but only MSOT_08 package)
// 97 Generic thermistor table 1
// 98 Generic thermistor table 2
// 99 Generic thermistor table 3
// 100 is AD595
// 101 is MAX6675
// 102 is MAX31855
#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8

Mac OSX ElCapitan
Prusa i3 (two built from kits), 1 hacked DaVinci
Solidworks for models, Netfabb to repair, Repetier/Slic3r and Simplify3D

25 Reply by carl_m1968

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Re: E3D Lite Hot End Conversion

Try type 1 and see what you get.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
Anycubic 4MAX best $225 ever invested.
Voxelabs Proxima SLA. 6 inch 2k Mono LCD.
Anycubic Predator, massive Delta machine. 450 x 370 print envelope.