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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Slic3r & Repetier Host Solidoodle 2! configs
Hi,
i m useing Repetier Host with Slic3r latest version on my Solidoodle 2
does someone have the right confiurations for repetier Host & Slic3r (both Latest) for my SD2??
just for checking if iam doin right or not all i found was like 4 year behind.
if so please send me a Download link or a tutorial in here or via private message 
as well i like to know which is the best Raft configuration.
Iam using my SD2 with a GlasBed
Thanks alot
That is a loaded request. Settings will vary from user to user, machine to machine, even filament to filament...even if from the same manufacturer. Different colors can require different settings as well.
So let us start with your settings. We can give empirical observations and suggest changes if needed.
Please give a full detail of any modifications you have made to the printer. Stock acrylic extruder? Stock hotend? Any mechanical or electrical change may also vary the setting.
I would add, Why would you use raft? No need for a properly calibrated SD2 printing on glass.
okay when iam back home from work i will screenshot my configurations. and the questions about this thx for now
I use 1 layer raft on mine if printing lots of support or very tiny parts so they dont get pulled loose during print is all. however I have an N scale Jeep windshield with no window fill just frame like 2mm thick it must be printed with no raft and it works 1st try mostly
Hi,
i m useing Repetier Host with Slic3r latest version on my Solidoodle 2
does someone have the right confiurations for repetier Host & Slic3r (both Latest) for my SD2??just for checking if iam doin right or not all i found was like 4 year behind.
if so please send me a Download link or a tutorial in here or via private message
as well i like to know which is the best Raft configuration.
Iam using my SD2 with a GlasBed
Thanks alot
also witch version of RH and Slic3r do you call latest? I find some versions are easier to work with on my SD2 so I have at least 3 but the newest one requirs deleting all versions b4 1.0 and I prefer running RHv0.86b / Slic3r 0.9.9dev and sometimes RH 0.95f / Slr 1.0.0RC3 as these are the only recent ones that can be installed on same computer use seperatly. all newer versions requir removal of any old versions and are what I call dumbed down so not as flexible especially on pre-repairs with a quick netfab app built in that wont proceed to print till its satisfied file is repaired enough. and I have several STL file repair tools for this. and Azerate is correct about settings. I have dozens with minor changes to each for different items printed and file name reflects changes/what its used for. took me months to learn how to save them and select/rename file each time saved. I have began changing the ones that start with Solidoodle to SD so its short enough to read full name in pull down menus which do not expand like most on the older versions. but if you change a name of a file the old file/name is still there until deleted. you also need to back track where these files folder are saved so you can backup a copy for updates to Slic3r and restore them in any new versions.
Okay.
First of all the configuartion from Repetier Host (Lastest version means Latest downloadable version)
The problem is, that all my prints start doing well and after the 6. layer the print loose from the Heated Bed.
My heated bed does not raise over 93° C. I dont use a Case for my SD2 Pro as it wa snot delivered.
I use a GlasBed and hairspray.
i want to use these http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:36939 so i change the default screws? because i dont rly. know where to connect the Thumbscrew with the bedlevelscrews.
you don't need to change the screws, just remove the stock nuts from underneath the bed and screw those thumbscrews on in place of them. They are meant to make adjusting the bed level easier.
As for a case - you can easily make something on your own. Many use plexiglass sides so they can see into the case while printing. Cardboard is also usable, but I would not leave the printer unattended if using that (fire potential). thin sheets of foil backed styrofoam insulation board work well, too, as does foam-core poster board. A little imagination goes a long way here.
okay and is it normal with the tempreture?
it always breaks away after the 6-10th layer ....
stabilizing the temp around the print will help with breaking away and cracking a lot. ABS is kind of finicky about temperature. If it cools too quickly it will crack, warp, and/or pull away from the bed completely. Keeping the air around it warm and draft free will help a great deal.
you don't need to change the screws, just remove the stock nuts from underneath the bed and screw those thumbscrews on in place of them.
Stock SD2 does not have nuts of any kind under the platform.
If you prefer printing ABS, an enclosure is absolutely crucial. Most of us use acrylic panels, but as stated, you can even use cardboard, construction paper....the list goes on. Just keep in mind the flash point of any material you use for said enclosure.
Maybe this link will get some ideas going? http://www.soliforum.com/topic/5480/sho … our-cases/
thank you rverry mutch cant belive how mutch an enclosure helped.. wow
Happy we could have halped
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