About to commit Da Vincicide.... (Page 1 of 2)

You seem to consider 55mm as being 'slow'?

I'd say that with such a small piece and an overhang so close to the bed, you should be printing at 20mm/s, with as low temp as you can (210-215 possibly), and the bed not higher than 90, maybe even lower it to 70-80 after the first few layers if you have really good adherence. And perhaps have a small layer cooling fan blowing into it softly.

I will go back to basics and try slow and cool. Gonna run at 25mm base with 20mm perimeters and a temp of 235. Should always go back to your basics when having issues. Remember this boys and girls.

Update:

So I reduced my speeds to 25 and lower depending on function as well as movrd the temp down to 230. The print look much better but I may need to reduce my Flowrate multiplier as the finished surface look like it is slightly over filled.

Sides look good and the over hang looks good on both sides. I might go back and try the bright green from Shaxon again. Maybe I was trying to print it to fast.

Maybe I was printing in yhe 20 to 30mm/s range all the time before the board swap. Not sure why I thought I could do 50+mm/s

I have yet to do a write up as I was waiting to confirm satisfactory performance. I am now getting prints I am comfortable with. I have a few mote tweaks to make as I think I may be slightly over extruding. Once I get that dialed in I will do the write up.

If you have any questions about the swap just ask. I will tell you know the stock opto sensors will not work with a ramps as they lack the current limiting tesistors for the LED. You will need to pick up three opto sensors as well. To make it easier try to find dome that have the connectors at a 45 to the board.  The horizontal type of connector wont work. You could go with mechanical switches as well but you would have to come up with a method to mount them. The opto sensors I had fit the stock locations with very minimal trimming of the sensor end and the install location.  It still looks very near stock.

I dont have it with me now but when I get home tonight at 12:30 central time I will pm you the color code for the steppers as well as the pin out for the optos since XYZ decided to be slick and use the same color for all three wires on the optos.

The firmware I used was Marlin I have posted a zip in my other thread on the swap. It has all the settings preset. All you need to do is open it in Adruino and upload it.

The opto sensors all have their own connection and setting on the board and in firmware. Like I said though the copy of Marlin I have supplied will have your machine axis and feed rates running correctly assuming your wiring is correct.

I used the stock motors and harnesses.  I only changed the connectors on the controller side as the stock connectors will not work on a RAMPS. Here is an image of my connections.

I have always used Marlin so I am more familiar with it. I could not get Repetier to cooperate with my end stop logic and motor homes.

Marlin also supports arc curves do circles and curves are actually rounded versus having polygon surfaces.

All three are installed on each stepper which is 1/16. According to the Wiki RAMPS does not support 1/32.

I forgot to mention, you will need a small fan blowing directly on the RAMPS. The problem is not the stepper drivers but the MOSFET that controls the bed heater. It will get too hot and shut off without active cooling. This is a known issue with RAMPS. Seems they decided to have owners use a fan versus chsnging the device. You could get a MOSFET with a higher current capacity I guess as long as it is still a TO220 style package. That is all there is room for in that location. Other option would be to use the MOSFET to drive a relay to run the bed. This is all of course if you did not want to install a fan in the case back.

I've got everything up and running except the limit switches and the lcd panel

Once I get the LCD panel does it use the SD card to store file transfers and run them automatically?  I'll be a little disappointed if I have to either keep a PC hooked up to the printer any time a program is running, or if I have to use SD cards to transfer files back and forth.

well I ordered the LCD and end stops last night.  No tracking # 24 hours later so I have my doubts that I'll get it any time soon.

Right now its working as long as I don't do any homing and manually position the nozzle before starting

The extruder clicks and stops feeding filament a few minutes in to the print.   I swapped the stock hot end for the pico B3, but I think its jamming so I may try out a different brand of hot end.  Its the same extruder gears and feed speeds that were working fine with the da vinci stuff.  This is happening on ABS, PLA, and PET.

I was having the same issue although I have yet to change my hotend. It is still stock. I had to lower my print speed to 20 and set extruder temp to 220 and bed to 90. Once I did that it is prunting like a champ. I am not sure what the difference is between the RAMPS and the stock  board as the stock board can print fine ar 50 to 60mm/s. The only real difference may be the stock board was set for 1/8 microstepping as far as I could tell while the RAMPS is set for 1/16. That is the only real difference. I may try setting the ramps up for 1/8. The change in firmware is easy, just half or was it double your steps per mm?

so I'm about ready to cut my losses and just pick up another 1.0 and part this project out.

RAMPS on a da vinci is a bust.  You lose off line printing capabilities,  you have to print slower, and it jams all the time