Glass Bed Mod

My friend also wants me to try a alloy plate in 3-4 mm thick as it also can hold heat well better than the glass
and heat up the compartment, this made sure to avoid any warping on ABS.

They have variety of thickness and may use sandpaper to scratch one side too and see if PLA will be good.

I can attest to the fact that the thicker the aluminum plate is, the longer it is going to take to heat it up.

I replaced my SD4's warped plate with a piece of aluminum plate I had lying around that is 4.75mm thick, with a mirror plate on top of that. I dont worry about warping anymore, and it does hold the heat beautifully - BUT - the big trade off, unless you are upgrading the heat pad as well, is it takes nearly 20 minutes to get it hot enough for doing ABS (105-110C).

60C for doing PLA only takes about 5-6 mins, however.

And using the glass/mirror on top, with hairspray, makes things so much nicer for removing parts once they are done - I don't have to worry about gouging the aluminum or kapton tape - ever.

I realize that 4.75mm is a bit of overkill, but the cost was $0 since I already had it. all I had to do was cut to the appropriate size, drill a small depression for the thermistor, holes for the leveling screws, stick on the heat pad, insulate and install (no cost, except my time, which doesn't seem to be worth much these days...)

@Heartless,

That is an amazing information.
Thank you, just what I need to hear, and definitely, a better heat pad.
I don't mind waiting for a full heat up on alloy bed, aslong I dont waste on filament.
Even wify thinks I'm going overboard by using light bulb 40w to heat up my SD enclosure,
coz my office is in air condition.

I've been using the freezer to pop out ABS on glass bed and it scares me that maybe in one day
it will crack and who knows that it may injure my hand or eyes.

granted, the freezer will make it cool a little faster, but is completely unnecessary. having more than one glass plate, however, is awesome.

print on one, when it is done, pop out that plate, pop a fresh one in, and print away while the first one cools. the parts will pop loose all on their own as they cool down. or you can get impatient, like me, and use a single edge razor to loosen the edges, LOL

and I don't need any "extra" heat sources for my SD - I lower the bed down to around 100mms (or more) during bed warm up time - it seems to heat up just a little faster that way (or maybe it is just wishful thinking...), and, since heat rises, the chamber warms up pretty good at the same time.

I used to use the glue sticks, too - but finally got the hairspray to work for me and haven't looked back... the elmers washable school glue sticks (purple)

The glue sticks were messy and/or sticky to clean up when it was time to do that. and I would still occasionally get lifting/warping on one or more corners - so frustrating!

The hairspray cleans up so much easier... and doesn't leave any residue on the parts like the glue sticks occasionally did. and in all honesty, once I figured out the right amount to use, I haven't hardly had a part lift/warp since I made the switch. A good dousing of windex and a paper towel and it is all gone. no need to scrape

I just take a warm damp warm cloth and it wipes right off. It is made to clean up with water. However I usually dont clean it for several prints. Atleast not till I see a sizable layer building up.