Re: E3D (V6)
Knew we'd find someone with an actual answer jagowilson. Makes sense. So then 3mm is more than enough adjustment.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
102 2015-05-07 19:03:37 (edited by hostinggeek 2015-05-07 19:04:28)
Re: E3D (V6)
I doubt you're anywhere near dumb, as I've been in more than a few of your posts. I was second guessing myself because you have a lot more experience with this than me. To your point about getting the hotends matching, when my workbench arrived, it was moving around more like a cnc and less like a printer, if you know what I mean. I was exited to find out I could print in true 3d. It was off by about 2mm. I made a nice wavy disc. aligning the bed with the hotends helped a bit when the bed probe worked right.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
Posted the riser, and a v2 of the mounting block witha little wiggle room. Cant print it tonight, but if any of you are up, you can let me know if it works.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
riser fits. I'll print the adjustable block when I get home.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
I just watched the filastruder kickstarter video....
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
Finally had time to make some progress last night. Z offset is at 4.55 here. It could use a little tweaking.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
This is usually a tough print. The Workbench with E3d-V6 setup made short work of it. I need to get a work fan setup now though.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
This is awesome! Thanks for posting! Just curious (please forgive me if I missed it, but I didn't see it...) did you have to update the power supply? Does it work okay with the default power?
109 2015-05-22 17:22:16 (edited by hostinggeek 2015-05-22 17:24:33)
Re: E3D (V6)
Works perfect all the way around. I hated this printer when I brought it home. It kinda kicks ass now. Don't tell soliryan. Don't want it going to Solidoodles head. lol.
Notable is the fact that it takes about 1 minute to heat the hotend to 230c. The stock hotend wouldn't get there, but it took 6+ minutes to get to 215c.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
My goal was to keep it as stock as possible. My only issue with the printer at the moment is that I cant control the flowrate in RH during a print. It just goes at whatever speed it wants. I'd like to knock that issue out before I switch to ramps, just to make sure the folks that don't want to get that ambitious can use their printers.
I'm a serial helper...
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
hostinggeek wrote:
Works perfect all the way around. I hated this printer when I brought it home. It kinda kicks ass now. Don't tell soliryan. Don't want it going to Solidoodles head. lol.
Notable is the fact that it takes about 1 minute to heat the hotend to 230c. The stock hotend wouldn't get there, but it took 6+ minutes to get to 215c.My goal was to keep it as stock as possible. My only issue with the printer at the moment is that I cant control the flowrate in RH during a print. It just goes at whatever speed it wants. I'd like to knock that issue out before I switch to ramps, just to make sure the folks that don't want to get that ambitious can use their printers.
I'm a serial helper...
Thanks! Takes 1 minute to heat to 230?!?!? WOW! Yeah, I will have to upgrade soon. Thanks for posting this and the hot end mount file. Did you alter Marlin or the firmware to get it to go to 230? I guess you had to now that I think about it...
Re: E3D (V6)
1 minute to 230c sounds about normal for the 25w heater cartridges you're using there to me. The stock PSU should drive two e3ds just fine. As long as the lights and fans don't flicker or slow down, you have enough power.
Re: E3D (V6)
jagowilson wrote:
1 minute to 230c sounds about normal for the 25w heater cartridges you're using there to me. The stock PSU should drive two e3ds just fine. As long as the lights and fans don't flicker or slow down, you have enough power.
Okay, thanks for noting that! It sounds much simpler that I thought it may be...
Re: E3D (V6)
It's a dead easy swap. As long as your comfortable with the firmware uploading procedures. The rest is just nuts, bolts and wiring.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
I've been running it pretty much constantly since I installed the E3d's. Aside from a y axis missed step issue, it's been flawless. I couldn't have printed those qav250 aeroguards that well on the prusa. They came out great. the pic doesn't do it justice.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
Way too much coffee, and not enough work today. I got turned on to Aquanet in this forum somewhere. Best find yet. Just enough static pressure to hold your print without gluing it down, literally.
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
hostinggeek wrote:
I've been running it pretty much constantly since I installed the E3d's. Aside from a y axis missed step issue, it's been flawless. I couldn't have printed those qav250 aeroguards that well on the prusa. They came out great. the pic doesn't do it justice.
Great! Thanks! I posted one of the first unboxing videos and first run setups a few months ago on youtube (there were NO videos and NO support for the workbench at the time). If I'm able to do the switch, I'll be sure to post photos and videos too... it may be a little while before I get to it though. Thanks again!
118 2015-05-22 18:01:20 (edited by walkie20 2015-05-22 18:05:55)
Re: E3D (V6)
hostinggeek wrote:
Way too much coffee, and not enough work today. I got turned on to Aquanet in this forum somewhere. Best find yet. Just enough static pressure to hold your print without gluing it down, literally.
Yeah, Aquanet (the purple can) works good for me too - for PLA. I couldn't get ABS to work very well though... until I made slurry (ABS dissolved in Acetone or nail polish). I coated the bed with the slurry with the bed temp around 100-110 and extruder at 220 and it works great now! I have been using ABS and just leave the slurry on the bed without cleaning it and it seems to work each time.
Re: E3D (V6)
Yeah, I followed the solidoodle instructions. I posted that stuff in thingiverse in the instructions.
walkie20 wrote:
hostinggeek wrote:Works perfect all the way around. I hated this printer when I brought it home. It kinda kicks ass now. Don't tell soliryan. Don't want it going to Solidoodles head. lol.
Notable is the fact that it takes about 1 minute to heat the hotend to 230c. The stock hotend wouldn't get there, but it took 6+ minutes to get to 215c.My goal was to keep it as stock as possible. My only issue with the printer at the moment is that I cant control the flowrate in RH during a print. It just goes at whatever speed it wants. I'd like to knock that issue out before I switch to ramps, just to make sure the folks that don't want to get that ambitious can use their printers.
I'm a serial helper...
Thanks! Takes 1 minute to heat to 230?!?!? WOW! Yeah, I will have to upgrade soon. Thanks for posting this and the hot end mount file. Did you alter Marlin or the firmware to get it to go to 230? I guess you had to now that I think about it...
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
I see it on the thingiverse instructions. Thanks again!
Re: E3D (V6)
It's what we do, right?
Of course I know what I'm doing. I googled it.
Re: E3D (V6)
you guys are great help. after truly trying to throw solidoodle away, its back to life , thx
Re: E3D (V6)
hostinggeek wrote:
It's a dead easy swap. As long as your comfortable with the firmware uploading procedures. The rest is just nuts, bolts and wiring.
I finally added an E3D to my Workbench (FINALLY!). It went pretty smoothly, as you mentioned! Your designs is a perfect fit! Do you have any suggestions for the firmware? Do you know of any guides that help?
Most likely, I am going to update firmware this week... or I may try just reconnecting one of the old thermistors... Once I get it rolling, I will post photos.
Re: E3D (V6)
I had a large print that covered most of the surface area of the print bed, and after a while, the filament would stop feeding. I'm assuming this is because of clogging in the hot end, but if that doesn't sound right, let me know. Regardless, I cracked the extruder mounting when removing the hotend. In my defense it looked like it was already cracked and I just finished the job. So feels like the right time to get a better extruder.
People here were very kind when I did the direct drive Y mount helping me out. I'm hoping I can get some support again.
I know I've updated the firmware once just to try to dial in prints, so that doesn't bother me. Hopefully the rest is not complicated. First, I have a solidoodle 2, 12V it looks like from the power supply. Is this all I need to buy?
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Full-Kit/V … mm-and-3mm
and then this to mount it?
http://www.filastruder.com/products/law … solidoodle
I'm assuming direct feed is what Solidoodle 2 used before. Seems like it is best to stay with that? Does that affect the parts above?
Re: E3D (V6)
Filastruder sells assembled hotend, just FYI. your SD2 was direct by default.