How do I modify the Da Vinci to be able to print PLA (Page 1 of 2)

You would need a new hotend like the E3D then modify the carriage to accomodate it. Or buy for 100 bucks and official hot end from XYZ. If you fo an E3D or similar conversion you will also have to flash the firmware to Repetier.

Just an FYI since I have not seen you posting before I am assuming you have or are referring to the newer 1.0A. The first generation 1.0A although it said on the box it was, it was in fact not PLA ready and will not print PLA unless you buy the optional PLA ready hot end. Which was referenced in a foot note in the instructions once you opened it. Later that foot note only referenced the website for further information on PLA compatibility. Going to that site would take you to the parts page for the new extruder. So just because you have a 1.0A does not automatically mean you can print with PLA. The first gen 1.0A was nothing more than a 1.0 that they changed the mainboard design and pinout on in hopes to thwart the hackers from getting around the DRM on the filament. So it depends on if you have a 1.0A that was purchased recently or one of the earlier ones. There was a thread posted several months ago with a chart from XYZ that had a serial number break down so you could ID your device and it's capabilities based on the serial number.

You may want to refer to this thread for more information on the issue with the 1.0A.

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9371/printing-pla-10a/

Just search through the last 5 to 10 pages in the Da Vinci section. There about 5 people that have converted to E3D and they all posted the way they did it. Also try a search on Thingiverse for Da Vinci E3D. There you will get several full carriage replacements and somr simple mods to the existing carriage.

However as was just said there is a chance your 1.0A may already be PLA compatible. Have you bought any and tried it?

mine says 1.0A on the serial # and it clogged with shaxon PLA.  Maybe the xyz PLA is a different composition

There is no real way. You can take the extruder assembly out and compare it to the picture in the thread I referenced. If it looks exactly like that one then it will not work with PLA.  If it looks different then it might.

People need to understand that XYZ uses a custom formula for ABS that enables it to melt and print at 190 which is the temp that a cartridge will ser the  machine for. This in itself makes it difficult to use some other vendors ABS. It would only be logical for them to do the same with their PLA.

If they say a machine will print with PLA they mean it will print with their brand and formula, not another brand.

That means compatible with XYZ brand filament, not other vendors. This key and I think what people are missing.  The stuff XYZ sells IS NOT standard PLA. Their ABS is slso not standard.

Well consider yourself lucky then. Most have not had your luck even on a 1.0A and have had horrible jams that are incredibly hard to clear since acetone does nothing to PLA.

Honestly I am not even sure why everyone is jumping on PLA. It is less durable than ABS , can't be used outside, and will melt if left in a car. Its only redeeming grace is that its biodegradable and smells like hot caramel when extruding.

The fact the new junior will only print in PLA is what keeps me from buying it. I know you are trying to help but you might also be confusing the issue as I don't recall Articwolf ever saying he had a 1.0A. He simply said Da Vinci, which would normally imply a 1.0 which cannot do nor was advertised as being able to do PLA.

2 reasons

1st,  R&D makes a lot of waste, I feel less guilty throwing PLA in the trash than ABS

2nd, I want to some day print the exotics.  If I can't figure out PLA I probably shouldn't look in to nylon

I have the 1.0A carl, and I said that earlier lol

You might want to try modding the stock hotend before switching to a new one.
I've had great results printing PLA and many other types of filament just by adding a few heatsinks and relocating the extruder fan.

I posted few pics here .... http://www.soliforum.com/post/94467/#p94467
It's a very quick and easy mod, just some small heatsinks added to the extruder using thermal paste. I put some paste on the stock heatsink too. Then moved the fan to the position in the photos.
This setup provides better cooling of the extruder barrel which is needed for PLA.
It's quick and easy to go back to the stock configuration so you've nothing to lose by trying it.

I dont really consider it trouble free if you have to mod your machine or install an alternate print head to use it.  I have used PLA as my old printer was completely open and PLA only. I found personally that PLA is much more picky about your bed level and calibration when it came to sticking. Of course I printed on treated and heated aluminum with nothing else so that could be why.

I agree with PLA being more ridgid and to me that is a negative attribute. PLA will break where ABS will still flex some. Now as you sometimes an alternative material is needed. In my case ABS is my primary and PLA is my alternate. I however am building a Delta to handle my PLA needs as well as other materials like nylon or polycarbonate.