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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → Prints not starting
I'm having issues trying to start prints. I click the start button, the head centers itself, adjusts the z-height, and then it just doesn't start printing. I haven't changed any settings, and no errors have showed up. Any ideas?
I have full manual control. It's almost as though the g-code won't execute. I can't stop the print either. I have to unplug the solidoodle to get the heaters to shut off, even if I close repetier host.
In Slic3r / Configuration; under the Filament Settings tab/Filament, set your Bed - First Layer & Other Layers temps to 0 and see if that has any effect...it has posed an issue for some where the bed temp never quite gets to where the printer thinks it should be and it just waits seemingly forever.
I do find it strange however, that the only way to stop your print is to unplug the machine...
I used to run into similar issues on the old Win XP machine I used to use for our SD4 printer - RH would completely freeze up forcing me to shut down the printer manually (I have mine plugged into a surge suppressor with an on/off switch) then close out RH and restart the computer.
the old computer only had 2 gig of ram - apparently just not enough (and that was the max that particular machine could handle - XP in general will only "see" 3.5 gig max, regardless of how much you stuff on the motherboard). I also could not run the filament visualizations on that computer - trying to do that would cause major issues, too.
All visualizations had to be turned off, and absolutely nothing else open or running in the background other than the bare essentials. Computer was disconnected from the internet so there would be nothing trying to update/download in the background that could possibly cause problems.
RH freezing up happened most often when trying to load & slice a larger file, or if I was trying out different slicer settings and re-slicing a couple of times.
I have not run into this problem since upgrading to a refurbished Win 7 computer with double the memory of the old XP machine (4 gig) - soon to be adding even more (adding another 8 gig for a total of 12, as well as upgrading the video card for better visualization performance)
I am not saying that this is definitely your problem, but it is something to think about if you are using an older computer.
for reference, I am using RH v1.0.6, with whatever version of slic3r that comes with it.
In Slic3r / Configuration; under the Filament Settings tab/Filament, set your Bed - First Layer & Other Layers temps to 0 and see if that has any effect...it has posed an issue for some where the bed temp never quite gets to where the printer thinks it should be and it just waits seemingly forever.
I do find it strange however, that the only way to stop your print is to unplug the machine...
This is exactly what had happened. I added a new filament setting for a new material, and they weren't zero'd, so it didn't print. Changed the numbers last night, and everything worked again. Destroyed my acrylic printbed though.
You're printing on acrylic...? What bed temp? Are you using ABS, PLA?
Sorry for the questions...just interested!
You're printing on acrylic...? What bed temp? Are you using ABS, PLA?
Sorry for the questions...just interested!
I set the bed temp at 110C, which is about 85-90 at the surface. I'm printing with ABS. Haven't tried PLA. It works without any glue or hairspray. I use .22" thick acrylic from home depot. When heated, it will warp; so I screwed it down at 4 corners with small hinge screws. Counter sunk the holes for screw clearance. One word of caution is to not do too much squish on the first layer or the bond will be permanent. 
That acrylic bed idea is incredibly clever! I may steal it at some point if i get bored of my kiln glass and hairspray.
That acrylic bed idea is incredibly clever! I may steal it at some point if i get bored of my kiln glass and hairspray.
I found a mention of it in a bed material review. ABS stuck well, but the material warped. Thicker sheet and 4 screws fixed the issue.
Hmm, that certainly is an interesting idea. Are you able to part the printed item when the bed is still warm or do you need to wait for the bed to cool down?
Hmm, that certainly is an interesting idea. Are you able to part the printed item when the bed is still warm or do you need to wait for the bed to cool down?
Depends on size of contact area. Larger parts require cooling fully. If they're really stuck, unscrewing and bending breaks them loose.
Thanks for the info...very interesting indeed! Need to try sometime!
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