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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → E3D (V6)
caught that late, and got grabbed at work. It should work. now I just need to figure out how to make a mirror of it, so the tension screws are on opposite sides. Reversing the motors is obviously easy.
is that a function in rh and I just never used it?
is the jigsaw based on nema17 of nema14? it looks big
Printed initial drawing for fit. Looks better than i thought. Needs a lot of tweaking. I may use a steel mk8 hobbed pulley instead of the brass one, but i was able to retain all of the original hardware. im going to lose about 5mm of z, but i think i can afford it since i dont print many trees or vases. There is room for a spacer under the extruders. I'll draw one to get the 5mm back for those who need it. I'm hoping to have a finished set of drawings by the weekend. I'll post some pics as soon as i'm a little closer, but i will be installing my E3D-v6's in my printer this weekend one way or another. The objective is to make something simple to use for others, with documentation for elmoret...
Next project is going to be to release the kracken on my prusa. I love that little printer.
so these thigiverse links you provided earlier in the post will work with my workbench & v6 ??
looks like its shaping up.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:805681
I think you can just flip the outer body of the probe to get it to work like this, but I think too many people will want the height back, so I'm going to draw a spacer. The fan mount is still killing me. Learning some new skills on that part.
This looks interesting for the fan.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:289114
I need to see if the stock controller has room for another pwm fan. Again trying to keep with original equipment as much as possible. I'd like the end result to be where this is a hot end upgrade only. I will of course be doing other mods, but for the sake of filastruder, I want to keep it simple.
This works with the existing peek cooling fans, so you don't have to make a connection for the e3d fans. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:435884
I did find that the wire was a little bit too short, but it works. if you aren't inclined to solder an extension, or the new fans, you can get away with it.
Does your mount have a mechanism for leveling the nozzles? Your printers tolerances and e3d's tolerances aren't good enough to ensure one hotend won't drag through the print. Hell, every e3d I put together ends up with the nozzle at a slightly different Z position. The assembly procedure is such that your nozzles could be different Z positions from each other by as much as 1-2mm!
That I didn't do. I just wanted to get it drawn. I got pretty lucky with my pair, and it worked with just bed leveling. I could make the screw holes slotted for some minor height adjustment. Mechanically, or at least with my ability, it seems anything else might become a bit of an albatross. Let me know if you want to try it out slotted, I'll post a set of drawings tonight.
I was actually thinking of building leveling into the riser. Maybe I'll draw that instead. I have about 10mm to make up for, so there should be plenty of room.
You can even have one hotend be in a static position, but one of them will have to move. Leveling the bed with the nozzles doesn't work as well as Solidoodle would lead you to believe, for a multitude of reasons. The nozzles need to be level for the best results. Ghosting is already a problem with dual extrusion even if the nozzles are perfectly level.
I gathered that from early testing of dual extrusion with the workbench. Automagic bed leveling seems to be something that only works in theory at this point too. Considering the world will not want to lose 10mm of z (like they'll ever use it) I have an idea for the riser platform that will keep it sturdy but leave about 3mm height adjustment per side. If you need more than that, we need to write a letter to E3d.
It should eliminate the need for adjustment on the bed probe also.
I appreciate the input btw.
Strange thing is the heatbreaks were both identical, as were the nozzles and heatsinks. The variable must be the drilling depth on the heatsink. On mine the heater blocks are at different heights, but the assembly is exactly the same length.
It's because of the assembly step where you back the nozzle out. That 1/4-to-1/2 turn of backing the nozzle out makes a big difference because it's incredibly forgiving. The nozzle can actually be several mm away from the heatblock when you tighten down the break--the break just goes in farther to close the gap between the break and nozzle.
I'd argue assembling two e3ds to have the same Z height is simply impossible.
the nozzle should be tight against the heatbreak. I don't think that's where you're losing height.
I followed Toms assembly instructions, for mechanical parts anyway.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xr02pG58gaU
The break can be tight against the nozzle at a variety of points. The nozzle doesn't have to be *exactly* 1/4 to 1/2 turn to still be tight because the heatbreak will just snug in deeper into the heatblock.
Yeah, but there is still no difference in height. The length of the nozzle and heat break remain the same, regardless of the heatblock, since they tighten against eachother. The only place there could be a difference would be the heatsink. Am I missing something obvious?
The length of an E3D hotend is not dependent on how it is assembled (if assembled correctly).
It is dependent entirely on manufacturing tolerances, which can stack up to be up to 1mm.
That must be it then, because HG you are correct and I'm dumb 
obviously it is made up there by the heatsink.
Knew we'd find someone with an actual answer jagowilson. Makes sense. So then 3mm is more than enough adjustment.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → E3D (V6)
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