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Topic: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

Lately when I print circles, the filament sometimes does not stick to the last layer (see picture).  How do I fix this?

http://soliforum.com/i/?WI6bcfk.jpg

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

2 (edited by carl_m1968 2015-04-30 00:48:03)

Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

driggers wrote:

Lately when I print circles, the filament sometimes does not stick to the last layer (see picture).  How do I fix this?

http://soliforum.com/i/?WI6bcfk.jpg


Slow down. Think of a string of hot plastic like a rubber band. If you stretch around a bend real fast then it will pull away from the bend as it cools. If you slow down then it will cool more as it is placed which will allow it to stick better. Depending on your software if it allows do inside perimeters at 25 or so.

Printing since 2009 and still love it!
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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

Might try that, although I expect I'm already printing fairly slowly; never been a racer.  Could it be anything else, like extruder temp, or the amount it squeezes out?

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

What temp are you printing at ? Do you hear thumping noises in the extruder ?

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

205 degrees, but I think my hot end is non-stock (aluminum block with resistor in it), so the temp might not be comparable to a different printer.  Anyway, you suggest trying hotter?

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

205 seems kinda low, but I an stil noob in this matters. Maybe the "veterans" should try to answer this.

Fat kids are harder to kidnap!

7

Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

Yeah, I tend to print as cool as I can because I have burnt out a few heating resistors, and I hate having down time.  I'll wait and see what other comments we get here, and then try increasing temp on some test prints.

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

8

Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

have you done a proper temperature calibration for the material you are using? a tall, single wall cube with temp changes every 10mm or so to determine what works best for that particular roll of filament... too cold & it will show cracking or peel apart easily, too hot & it will show bubbles (and often break/crack easily)... 
I usually start out with 5 degree temp changes, then narrow it down further by doing again with 1-2 degree temp changes to find the ideal setting.

I have found that the ideal temp can vary from one roll to another even with the same type of plastic. doing a temp calibration is now a regular part of my calibration routine when changing rolls. I keep a record of what works best for each roll I have - feed steps/mm, extrusion multiplier, & temp calibration. (I have 6 rolls of PLA in various colors, and 4 rolls of ABS in various colors - each one has different settings)

and yeah, as carl said - speed matters, too.

SD4 #1 & #2 - Lawsy carriages, E3D v6, Rumba controller board, mirror bed plate, X motor fan, upgraded PSU & Mica bed heater
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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

I've calibrated with this brand, but not this particular filament.  Maybe it's time to do that again!

SD2 Sanguinololu 1.3a atmega1284p, wood platform, lawsy's carriages, braided fishing line, pallet wood overhead spool mount, carboard/magnet enclosure, glass bed, E3D v6, bed levelling knobs, extended z-stop, 25A DC-DC SSR for bed heater, everything fixed to the SD2 frame, marlin firmware with some adjustments and extra failsafes enabled.  I'll never give up on you, little printer that could(n't)!

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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

Slow down the speed on your perimeters slightly

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Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

Agreed with others.  Go slower and check temps.  Also, make sure your extrusion width is at lease 1.2x your nozzle diameter.  It needs a little bit of squish to bond to the adjacent layer, in my experience.  This is one of the harder problems to get exactly right.  Thankfully it is inconsequential on most prints.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

12 (edited by jagowilson 2015-04-30 15:21:51)

Re: filament layers come apart on inside of circle

I think you have a mechanical backlash/slop issue. From your picture, I notice a few things:

http://soliforum.com/i/?l6CKE7B.jpg

1. Your X motor appears to be mounted incorrectly. If it is not flush with the lawsy carriage, it will wobble, resulting in backlash on your X axis.
2. Your error is not consistent around the circle, but if we draw a line through the circle, we almost get perfect symmetry between the sloppy areas and the areas of perfection.

Check your belts and ensure everything is rigid. Any movement beyond what the motors call for is a bad thing. Most likely, your X motor is loose, and your hotend has some slop as well.

Speed isn't really a problem. I can print something like this at 100mm/s with my fan turned on (or enclosure off). A lot of the issues you are experiencing went away when I switched my SD4 to a direct drive system where the Y motor moves the shaft via a coupler.