1 Topic by fdm_process

  • fdm_process
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Topic: Lawsy's Carriage

I'm going to go ahead and do the carriage mod for my Solidoodle 3.

After looking at the instructions on Thingiverse I have a couple of questions. The y-shaft rods on the SD3 are 6mm and the instructions are for the Solidoodle 2 with 8mm rods and both printers have different build dimensions. Am I still looking at using the LMU8 linear bearings or should I be ordering a different size? Also, should I just order some 8mm rods instead of different bearings and if so what should the length of those be?

2 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Lawsy's Carriage

I think you need to measure your rods again.
The Y rods that go from front to back are 8mm as are the X rods that go side to side.
The rear Y axis drive rod is 6mm but for this mod you aren't touching that.
So the SD2,3&4 all use the same 8mm rods and bearings.  The tolerances of the stock SD rods is poor so the linear bearings you get may or may not work on those rods.  As far as length goes for ordering rods you may want to measure yours and decide if you maybe want them a little longer on the X rods.  I know mine are a little short and don't reach all the way through the carriages.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

3 Reply by fdm_process

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Re: Lawsy's Carriage

Thanks Ward, I was looking at the wrong link on the Solidoodle website. I found the sizes of the rods in another posting on here from Adrian for the SD3. He states the sizes as follows:

304 Stainless M8 Polished Round Bar x 4
(2 x 360mm for Y-Axis, 2 x 340mm for X-Axis)

Should I go ahead and up the size of those x-axis rods to 350mm?

4 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Lawsy's Carriage

I think you'd be just fine at 350 yes.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

5 Reply by fdm_process

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Re: Lawsy's Carriage

Great!! Thanks a bunch. Going to see if I can't get someone to laser cut some bar for me. I'll come back and update once I get everything taken care of.

6 Reply by grob (edited by grob 2015-03-09 05:07:30)

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Re: Lawsy's Carriage

fdm_process wrote:

Great!! Thanks a bunch. Going to see if I can't get someone to laser cut some bar for me. I'll come back and update once I get everything taken care of.

That would be super cool. But if you can't, they can be cut with a dremel and/or hacksaw (dremel is usually a bit quicker through the hardened/chromed outer surface, and the hacksaw is a bit easier to control as you go deeper into the bar) and cleaned up with a file and sandpaper, so please don't spend crazy money on making that happen with lasers!! smile

Also, suitable shafts specifically for this application can be purchased online (e.g. eBay) at various lengths, so you may not need to cut in the end at all.

Good luck, enjoy your modding! smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
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7 Reply by mdrVB6

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Re: Lawsy's Carriage

If you use a hacksaw, be sure it is very sharp to avoid bending the rods.  I would use a dremel cutting head or order them to the exact length you want from Misumi.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed