Platform tilted - Won't print even front to back. (Page 1 of 2)

I'd like to see a screen shot of your Z-Offset Calibration screen (or just list the z-values for the 9 test points and a,b,d), if you guys don't mind.

I'm having the same issue. Even with a small part (5cm radius). There is a huge difference in first layer adhesion from the area towards the back, to the area towards the front. The print in the back is nice, and the area to the front is hardly pressed into the bed at all. It is almost like the auto bed leveling is not working. I wish there was a way to manually level the bed at least once. It seems by default it is pretty bad.

I think I found a fix for forward tilting and bouncy print bed. There's 2 holes on bottom rear of print bed, I just put a screw into there and the print bed is much more stable now. Not sure about the screw size but it's the one they use to hold the printer sides and lids in place.

You will need to push your print bed all the way up so you have room to get your hands and screwdriver in.

So far it's working I can actually print something bigger than 2" now!

But... are they for screws, or to attach some stabilizing springs that would go to the bottom of the case?

Since there is no backlash adjustment, having a constant pressure (spring) pulling the bed down, parallel to the line of travel is an anti-backlash workaround that some have found to work.

The springs would only help at the top.  Though maybe by the time the bed is lower, the weight of the part would help?  Seems doubtful. I did put some springs on mine, and it does help with marlin's auto leveling... But yeah, only at the top.

Also, my press (from the first shipment) does have screws there, but the bed still has a forward tilt.   Maybe the lack of screws indicates some poor quality control at the factory.

I really am convinced they would have been better off shipping this thing unassembled and as a kit.  The number of issues with the assembly means you basically have to reassemble it anyway, so why not just give us the pieces and charge $50 less?

yes.  and it was working nicely for a few days.  Then i to had this bouncing bed issue, after adding some screws...and realizing that somehow along the way i was using a different printer profile in S3D that didnt have the proper start g-code....my prints have gotten much better.

Mine has the screws in place and still has a shaking when moving. Like others it tips forward a bit but it is also warped a bit. If I put a straight edge across it there is raised area in the middle. I have performed the Z axis calibration several times and I'm using Soliprint 1.1.1
It drags thru the print in the back and lifts off the bed in the front. It doesn't seem to compensate for any of the differences in bed height 

So far I have tightened the grub screw on the extruder gear, actually gone thru and tightened all the grub screws and any other fastener I could find even removing the left panel to get to the X axis motor.
I have noticed when performing the Z axis calibration it does a nine point check of the bed but when it touches in the rear it does a double tap but when in the front it does a single tap. Not sure if that means anything.

This is my firs 3D printer and I am OK with working on it but I have been messing with this for several days and have yet to get a usable print.

Any suggestions? Thinking I need to remove the printer bed and try to straighten it out.

I can see the bed move independently of the plastic mount as I lift on the front of it, it pivots is the best way I can describe it. The screws on the bottom are tight but I can't figure out a way to check the screws on the sides. Will keep scratching my head on this and will post if I figure anything out.
Think I'm going to remove the build plate and attempt to level it. I hope the heat pad will re-stick after removed. Going to insulate the bottom of the build plate also, thinking a fiber board insulation or wood 1/2" thick or so. Trying to speed up the time it takes to heat up the bed