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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Solidoodle Discussion → SOLVED-Print layers look like Ramen noodles
slic3r is set at 100% infill 0.1 layer line fill pattern...all prints come out like shite
Massive underextruding. Either a clog in the nozzle or too low of temperatures for the material.
What do they look like at .3 layer height?
Ill try .3 and temp is reading 230°c...if that fails ill take apart and see if clogged. Thanks will post back w diff settings
Good plan.
Could also be that your filament diameter is set wrong, or extrusion multiplier, or Flowrate if using Repetier.
Ok so better, I chose 100% infill but it doesnt seem to do so. Threadless ballscrew mod...not sure what to do been tinkering in slicer but same thing not a solid piece and fully infilled
Could also be that your filament diameter is set wrong, or extrusion multiplier, or Flowrate if using Repetier.
+1
Isn't 230C too much for stock hotend? I thought it should be around 215.
Anyway, you're lines are too thin, which could be a software thing or hardware.
First check if it's an issue in software.
1) Do this:
You'll probably end up with the value 105.8 at 215C for a Solidoodle 4.
2) Now go to Slic3r>Filament Settings>Extrusion Multiplier and set it to 1. It's 0.6 for some unknown reason in Repetier Host Solidoodle by default.
Extrusion Multiplier can be used for fine tuning later. I never needed it myself.
Check if Slic3r>Filament Settings>Diameter is set it to 1.68. That's the default.
3) And check that the values in Slic3r>Print Settings>Advanced>Extrusion Width are set to 0 (default).
Now print a test again.
If the problem has gone or improved, then good, likely only a software thing.
If not, you'll need to check for clogs in your hotend (likely just the nozzle, not in the barrel).
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/unclogging-procedures
But I doubt you have a clog because you'd notice flakes of filament on the extruder motor gears and the bottom of the extruder because of the motor gear grinding the filament which fails to move as fast as the gear is pushing it.
Slic3r's filament diameter setting of 1.68 is for Solidoodle filament only. In general, you should measure the spool in a variety of places and enter the average here. I'm lazy and have had extremely ok results entering 1.75 with all of my octave spools because the diameter is pretty consistent.
For the E steps per mm on my machine I settled at 105. I don't know if the error from non-integral steps matters here, but 105 should pull 100mm on the SD4. Remember, it should be 210 if you are using 1/32 microstepping on that rumba.
Make sure your extrusion widths match a 0.4 nozzle. Solidoodle has screwed this up for a long time in their default profiles. Set everything to .48 to start (support material 0.24), and then experiment. This can be found in the advanced pane on slic3r. If you set these right you can get strong, fast prints, at low and high infills.
Edit: this is a late edit, but I wanted to point this out. You MUST adjust the extrusion multiplier or you will likely be over-extruding, which will introduce a number of problems. Here it looks like the problem is under-extrusion, which makes sense if you didn't adjust the .6 multiplier. On my e3d, I have to scale back an average of 10% (.9), but it really depends on the filament.
Make sure your extrusion widths match a 0.4 nozzle. Solidoodle has screwed this up for a long time in their default profiles. Set everything to .48 to start (support material 0.24), and then experiment. This can be found in the advanced pane on slic3r.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it better to set the Nozzle Diameter in Printer Settings>Extruder 1 to 0.4 (which is the default from Solidoodle's site) and set the values in the Extrusion Multiplier to 0 (0 meaning default, I guess meaning use the Nozzle Diameter's value)? (except for support material)..
Edit: this is a late edit, but I wanted to point this out. You MUST adjust the extrusion multiplier or you will likely be over-extruding
Why? If I set the filament diameter, nozzle size and steps per mm I have no need to set an extrusion multiplier myself. (I set it to 1)
jagowilson wrote:Make sure your extrusion widths match a 0.4 nozzle. Solidoodle has screwed this up for a long time in their default profiles. Set everything to .48 to start (support material 0.24), and then experiment. This can be found in the advanced pane on slic3r.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it better to set the Nozzle Diameter in Printer Settings>Extruder 1 to 0.4 (which is the default from Solidoodle's site) and set the values in the Extrusion Multiplier to 0 (0 meaning default, I guess meaning use the Nozzle Diameter's value)? (except for support material)..
Edit: this is a late edit, but I wanted to point this out. You MUST adjust the extrusion multiplier or you will likely be over-extruding
Why? If I set the filament diameter, nozzle size and steps per mm I have no need to set an extrusion multiplier myself. (I set it to 1)
Jagowilson is referring to the Extrusion Width settings (not Nozzle Diameter) which need to be at .48 for a .4 nozzle...and theoretically you can nail your calibration box wall thickness to .48 with just diameter and steps/mm, but most times tweaks are necessary.
Isn't 230C too much for stock hotend? I thought it should be around 215.
Anyway, you're lines are too thin, which could be a software thing or hardware.
First check if it's an issue in software.
1) Do this:
Except set the value you got in Repetier Host>Config>Firmware EEPROM Configuration instead, the video is old.You'll probably end up with the value 105.8 at 215C for a Solidoodle 4.
2) Now go to Slic3r>Filament Settings>Extrusion Multiplier and set it to 1. It's 0.6 for some unknown reason in Repetier Host Solidoodle by default.
Extrusion Multiplier can be used for fine tuning later. I never needed it myself.
Check if Slic3r>Filament Settings>Diameter is set it to 1.68. That's the default.3) And check that the values in Slic3r>Print Settings>Advanced>Extrusion Width are set to 0 (default).
Now print a test again.
If the problem has gone or improved, then good, likely only a software thing.If not, you'll need to check for clogs in your hotend (likely just the nozzle, not in the barrel).
http://wiki.solidoodle.com/unclogging-proceduresBut I doubt you have a clog because you'd notice flakes of filament on the extruder motor gears and the bottom of the extruder because of the motor gear grinding the filament which fails to move as fast as the gear is pushing it.
Thanks all ill try everything you guys said, and it is grinding the piss out of my filament
I think your "Soon to be E3D and Lawsy's MK-5" will fix your problems 
redbarret wrote:jagowilson wrote:Make sure your extrusion widths match a 0.4 nozzle. Solidoodle has screwed this up for a long time in their default profiles. Set everything to .48 to start (support material 0.24), and then experiment. This can be found in the advanced pane on slic3r.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it better to set the Nozzle Diameter in Printer Settings>Extruder 1 to 0.4 (which is the default from Solidoodle's site) and set the values in the Extrusion Multiplier to 0 (0 meaning default, I guess meaning use the Nozzle Diameter's value)? (except for support material)..
Edit: this is a late edit, but I wanted to point this out. You MUST adjust the extrusion multiplier or you will likely be over-extruding
Why? If I set the filament diameter, nozzle size and steps per mm I have no need to set an extrusion multiplier myself. (I set it to 1)
Jagowilson is referring to the Extrusion Width settings (not Nozzle Diameter) which need to be at .48 for a .4 nozzle...and theoretically you can nail your calibration box wall thickness to .48 with just diameter and steps/mm, but most times tweaks are necessary.
Even if all of your other calibrations are perfect, die swell in the nozzle is a significant factor that slic3r must know about. Slic3r makes a lot of assumptions about the world that are incredibly simplifying. The extrusion multiplier tells slic3r how wrong its predictions are so that it can scale up/down appropriately. Slic3r's model assumes extrusions are rounded rectangles and uses this geometry for flow calculation. This scaling does NOT affect the tool path! You can think of it as ensuring the tool path matches the actual extrusion.
I think your "Soon to be E3D and Lawsy's MK-5" will fix your problems
Thats what I'm banking on Ward. Thats why I got rid of MK2 for now, try and eliminate all possibilties of problems (unlevelness, print area problems etc) once I get bracket old hotend will make nice paperweight/backup.
Red I read also (according to SD) 230° is too hot for THEIR hotend, but im using their plastic and supposedly it calls for 220-260°(purple is inly one from them branded w there name, although guy from SD I spoke w on phone assured me black or white labeled spool or not if I bought it from them, its theres) so i just carried temps over from dud plastic abs to their yellow
Ok I did extruder calib. W straw, I doubled all steps in EEPROM when I got RUMBA for 1/32 stepping. It over extruded by a bunch and i didnt have mark after fiddling w numbers in arduino still no go. I cut number in half for extruder in EEPROM and its dead on...
Then you didn't set up microstepping like you thought check the pins again.
Then you didn't set up microstepping like you thought
+1
I have all 3 sets if pins jumped out on board...in arduino the settings sre all x2 extruder was 88x2
Also my infill wont touch perimeters...im trying to get fully solid models, i set 100% in slic3r for all under advanced and it claims extrusion width is too large, in that menu i have it set at 0 for
Default switched to.42 like it is in other settings snd still get errors
Edit; even when i change solid infill and infill to 100% it comes up w the extrusion width too high, not even touching that setting, so confused
Jagowilson is referring to the Extrusion Width settings (not Nozzle Diameter) which need to be at .48 for a .4 nozzle...and theoretically you can nail your calibration box wall thickness to .48 with just diameter and steps/mm, but most times tweaks are necessary.
That's weird, mines are set to default (0) and have no problems. Maybe Slic3r automatically assumes it to be 0.48 because it knows the nozzle diameter? Would make sense.
This might also help OP.
You can use 0 if you like. It does automatic calculation in that case. I prefer to do the math myself and choose based on my needs for that particular print. Choosing the right widths can have a big impact on the look of the part and how long it takes to print.
Everyone should find what they like. BUT, when calculating the extrusion multiplier, use a constant width for your external perimeters so you know for certain what thickness you're looking for.
Well I cleaned nozzle, its deffinstly extruding thicker now and when manually pushed it goes through easier, hopefully that helps at least the horrible stripping problem. But the e3d will be on as soon as Mk5 gets here and I bought every nozzle size they had. Maybe some problems will go away once stock hotend is gone. Thanks a ton for all help and suggestions, as usual you guys are a big help to my naivness
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