26 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-09 09:17:40)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

So you used two pulleys/belts for the motor?
Got some photos? The Y motor shaft is too short to make room for two pulleys.
I'm probably missing something, that doesn't make a "tensioner device" by itself.
And why would you need belts for direct drive.
I'm confused.
What else is there to it?

I can definitely try it out because I have ball bearings instead of bushings and don't get binding under any stress there.

Albertatinker wrote:

The MXL belts are too elastic, when you you need rigid belts for such an application.

Is it? tell me more. Belt is definitely not stretchy, what do you mean?

Solidoodle 4

27

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

redbarret wrote:

So you used two pulleys/belts for the motor?
Got some photos? The Y motor shaft is too short to make room for two pulleys.
I'm probably missing something, that doesn't make a "tensioner device" by itself.
And why would you need belts for direct drive.
I'm confused.
What else is there to it?

I can definitely try it out because I have ball bearings instead of bushings and don't get binding under any stress there.

Albertatinker wrote:

The MXL belts are too elastic, when you you need rigid belts for such an application.

Is it? tell me more. Belt is definitely not stretchy, what do you mean?

I had two pulleys on the motor. The outer one had a wire on it, and a spring. The wire went from the motor to a pulley block on the bottom front,  and then over another pulley on the front tensioner, and attached to the carriage. This caused the belt to be constantly loaded.

Essential it works identically to an anti-lash nut and spring on the the z threaded rod. Instead, it's done with two belts.

As for the belts. Mxl belts aren't designed for linear motion. But rotation timing. GT2 belts are. The reason we have issues with the mxl belts is that there is a bit of give. We tighten them by stretching the belts with the tensioners. This distorts the belt teeth, altering contact angle with the pulleys. This tiny slip causes the lash problem.

28 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-10 18:35:14)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

That's odd to hear. Ultimaker uses MXL and it's known for its quality output.
Solidoodle has in total of 7 pulleys, replacing them and all the belts isn't cheap.

I still don't understand how your tensioner works.

One thing, what kind of pulley did you use on the motor to make room for adding two on it? There's not enough space on the shaft of the motor for two stock pulleys.

The wire went from the motor to a pulley block on the bottom front,  and then over another pulley on the front tensioner, and attached to the carriage.

Could you reword this please?
I don't understand what you mean by "bottom front", front tensioner doesn't have room for two pulleys either and whole setup is still confusing.
And a photo is worth thousand words if you have one or can make one.

And I think the topic title is a bit inaccurate at this point.

Solidoodle 4

29 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-10 20:05:29)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

This is a thought I've been having lately.  Those front idlers on the 4 introduce a lot of slop into the system because the pulley screw is not supported at the rear, only at the front by 2 screws. You can imagine what this does on load reversal. Belt tension holds them in place, so when the direction changes, they... Go backward, which changes the tension in the belt. You can jiggle the pulley by hand when it's not under load (loose belt or belts off), because at least on my machine the nut wouldn't grip tightly enough on the printed part without rubbing the pulley. The easiest way to deal with this is to print idlers that don't have a tensioning mechanism, but that means you're swapping carriages, as well.

EDIT: on my phone so I can't link, but if you chop the belts and put them under the keepers it's no different than the method pirvan came up with in hacks/mods.

30

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

If you mean you can't tighten the screw on which the front pulleys are enough so it won't rotate a little when the carriage moves, then I can tell you that I can, and it doesn't change anything.

If you mean the pulley is loose on that screw and that might cause problems, then there's a solution for that as well, though others who have switched to direct drive or just fixed their backlash issue somehow haven't had an issue with that.
Print this, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:391490 , get bearings, put them in place and tighten the pulley to the screw with a set screw this time.

Solidoodle 4

31 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-11 15:42:59)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

Can you adjust the belt tension without loosening the nut on the screw? If you can, then it is too loose and will be slop.  I can on my machine but I think my idlers are broken from extensive use. The pulley spins on that screw so it should be as tight as possible and not move forward/back even under a lot of force. If that screw moves in any way, the tension of the belt is altered and this causes all kinds of problems, because it changes the effective size of the contact area between the belt teeth and pulley. Look at the X axis and notice how firm that screw is.

I plan to replace my idlers with something different for fishing line. I have the nut tight enough that the screw cannot rotate, but I cannot get it tight enough that the screw has absolutely NO forward/backward movement without rubbing the pulley and causing the axis to bind up.

32

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

jagowilson wrote:

Can you adjust the belt tension without loosening the nut on the screw? If you can, then it is too loose.

How do we know it is too loose?

Solidoodle 4

33 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-11 17:34:06)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

Because the screw should have absolutely no movement relative to the idler. If you can move it with a screw, don't you think the Y motor and all the weight it's slinging around can as well? Especially consider the case where the axis is traveling toward the front of the machine, where the load is not pressing the pulley bolt against the tensioning bolts as hard.  I can see my belts glide forward a hair on my left idler, but the pulley may have also been ground out of round, I haven't had a good opportunity to take it apart yet.

Any movement of the bolt pulley changes tension. This is just by definition. To have minimal lash, the belts need to retain their tension as much as possible in all directions.

34 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-11 18:18:56)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

jagowilson wrote:

If you can move it with a screw, don't you think the Y motor and all the weight it's slinging around can as well?

The question is how much pressure I need to apply to the tensioner screws to be able to move the pulley screw and how much it is compared to the pressure from the belts.
If it is less, then you're right, if it is more, then probably not.
Do you know what it is?

Printing 2 Solidoodle 3 style brackets and testing if using them solves anything won't be hard. Try it out and see. I'd do it too but my bed heater has completely messed up to print even small stuff.

Solidoodle 4

35

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

Here's the bottom pulley block.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150111_105239_zpsjuottihs.jpg
Here's the tensioner pulley.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150111_105253_zps4gl5wdhj.jpg
Dual pulleys
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150111_105311_zpserkztyui.jpg

Here's the pics of the parts in the setup.

36 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-12 18:04:19)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

Hm, so looks like you managed to tighten a second pulley on the motor shaft though its not all the way held by the motor shaft, used some kind of custom pulley(s) on the bracket and a custom "pulley block" attached to the bottom-front of the printer. Now it makes sense.

As for the GT2 belts... again, Ultimaker and few other printers use MXL too. I read those articles and they make sense, but maybe the difference seems negligible in practice.

However, if you find a place or eBay seller that sells an indentical GT2 looped belt for the motor, around 2m GT2 belt for replacing the side belts, 8 GT2 pulleys (20 tooth?) to replacd stock MXL ones (x3 6mm holed for the back rod and x5 5mm for the motors and screw ones) all shipped together do let me know. I've wanted to switch to GT2 and do a comparison for a while.

Solidoodle 4

37 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-12 19:18:34)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

yaa that MXLs dont have enough lash to prevent perfect circles, unless we're talking about high speed. you've seen several printers with MXL belts make perfect circles so i don't really see why people go GT2 when fishing line is so successful, and can be run far tighter than any belt could dream of... this is not to say GT2s will not give you an improvement, but fishing line will give you more of an upgrade with far less cost.

no, i have not done it to my printer. but the library at my university has a fusion 3 which uses a similar kind of line, and I've seen it fill a 12x12 build area at 300mm/s+ travel with extreme accuracy. other parts of that printer make it far more accurate than a stock solidoodle can ever be, but they could not use belts with those speeds, all else being equal.

38 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-12 19:43:57)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

Ultimaker 2, which is a pretty expensive printer and unlike Solidoodle actually cares about good engineering and quality, uses MXL and its advertised to print up to 300 mm/s. And btw, it also has closed loop belt for the motor and drive rod.

Main issue with fishing line is I haven't figured out how to use it on the motor pulleys (closed loop, http://www.soliforum.com/topic/8199/odd … s/page/23/ ), I've tested fishing lines instead of side belts, isn't hard to do.
Using fishing lines is like using belts with no teeth. Well, not really but easy to think of it that way. So yeah, I see why it would work at considerably faster speeds.
Side note, will probably want to add a fan at these speeds even for ABS.


I've printed calibration tests at 30 mm/s, the backlash is the same...

Again, if you can find an (ebay) seller that will ship the Gt2 pulleys (both 5mm and 6mm holed) and belts together I'll be glad to do a comparison test for everyone. Preferably around $50 excl shipping.

Solidoodle 4

39

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

redbarret wrote:

Ultimaker 2, which is a pretty expensive printer and unlike Solidoodle actually cares about good engineering and quality, uses MXL and its advertised to print up to 300 mm/s. And btw, it also has closed loop belt for the motor and drive rod.

Main issue with fishing line is I haven't figured out how to use it on the motor pulleys (closed loop, http://www.soliforum.com/topic/8199/odd … s/page/23/ ), I've tested fishing lines instead of side belts, isn't hard to do.
Using fishing lines is like using belts with no teeth. Well, not really but easy to think of it that way. So yeah, I see why it would work at considerably faster speeds.
Side note, will probably want to add a fan at these speeds even for ABS.


I've printed calibration tests at 30 mm/s, the backlash is the same...

Again, if you can find an (ebay) seller that will ship the Gt2 pulleys (both 5mm and 6mm holed) and belts together I'll be glad to do a comparison test for everyone. Preferably around $50 excl shipping.

I found the real problem tonight. Here's my results at 100 mm/s. This is with only the bearings in the tensioner as a mod, so these results could easily be achieved by a totally stock unit.
http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u366/rcphotobucketaccount/Mobile%20Uploads/20150112_191022_zpss5fqbagw.jpg
I don't know how we missed this.

40 (edited by redbarret 2015-01-13 07:55:45)

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

What do you mean by bearings in the tensioner?
This? http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:391490 (two bearings on the sides)
Or the belt on a bearing?

This might be just me, but I still see a tiny bit of backlash, maybe <0.2mm. best way to check is to print a filled calibration test model.
Like a filled circle. But a few layer hig, not 1, and see if you have tiny holes at 5 and 11 oclock.

Solidoodle 4

41

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

I'm guessing you missed this thread
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/9165/how … r-circles/

42

Re: Solidoodle 4 print issue solved

yep

Solidoodle 4