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Topic: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

Hi everybody, I'm really hoping that someone here smarter than I can help.  I just finished the assembly and installation of my e3d v6 using the mk 5 extruder.  Everything went mostly smoothly. 

Once Everything was in place, I thought I'd try a calibration cube.  I loaded the filament, extruded a bit to get it primed, and then started the print.  When the print started, however, nothing was being extruded.  I stopped the print and checked the extruder.  The gear was moving, but the filament wasn't.  So now I'm stuck at a point where I can't even remove the filament and I'm not sure what to do. 


If anyone has any suggestions at all, I would really appreciate it.  And please let me know if more information is needed or if this was posted in the wrong section.

Thanks!

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2 (edited by AZERATE 2015-01-06 03:32:28)

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

Well, you might want to make posts like this in the Help section...but it's good smile

It looks like you assembled it wrong. The bottom midsection of the heatbreak should be flush with the top of the heating block, then tighten the nozzle. Seems like the nozzle is too far from the block causing filament to gum up before distribution...just a theory. But a couple other pics at different angles and a bit more info might help.

EDIT: To clarify, the heatbreak has a longer then shorter threaded end. the shorter end is what you want on the bottom toward the block.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

3

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

+1 the heat break is upside down.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

4

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

What those guys said - but I'm also a little curious about the tension arm: it looks like the blue tension arm is resting against the red filament guide. Maybe (compounding your difficulty) the arm is resting on that surface and the bearing isn't pressing the filament into the drive gear hard enough?

(Does anyone know whether the bearing from an SD4 extruder the same type as the SD1/2/3 acrylic extruders?)

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

5 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-06 05:36:52)

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

Sd4 doesn't use the same bearing. That assembly requires a 625zz and the one that comes with the sd4 is too small. I forget what's on the sd4, but I just bought the bearing instead of re-designing the tension arm because the larger bearing just makes more sense from a mechanical perspective to me.

I need to make a post about what hardware you need to use existing mods on an sd4. I'll work on this soon.

6

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

grob wrote:

What those guys said - but I'm also a little curious about the tension arm: it looks like the blue tension arm is resting against the red filament guide. Maybe (compounding your difficulty) the arm is resting on that surface and the bearing isn't pressing the filament into the drive gear hard enough?

(Does anyone know whether the bearing from an SD4 extruder the same type as the SD1/2/3 acrylic extruders?)

Good Catch Grob!!!! 
The heat break had a  "slide of hand" affect so I wasn't even paying attention to the tension arm wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

AZERATE wrote:

Well, you might want to make posts like this in the Help section...but it's good smile

It looks like you assembled it wrong. The bottom midsection of the heatbreak should be flush with the top of the heating block, then tighten the nozzle. Seems like the nozzle is too far from the block causing filament to gum up before distribution...just a theory. But a couple other pics at different angles and a bit more info might help.

EDIT: To clarify, the heatbreak has a longer then shorter threaded end. the shorter end is what you want on the bottom toward the block.


Awesome, thanks for the advice.  I'll take some more pictures when I get home from work and upload them here.  But I think I'll disassemble the hot end and reassemble it (hopefully I won't be dumb and do it wrong this time).

Side note, do you have a suggestion on removing the filament?  Should I disassemble and hope that it comes out that way?  Or is there something else that you suggest trying?

Thanks!

8

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

grob wrote:

What those guys said - but I'm also a little curious about the tension arm: it looks like the blue tension arm is resting against the red filament guide. Maybe (compounding your difficulty) the arm is resting on that surface and the bearing isn't pressing the filament into the drive gear hard enough?

(Does anyone know whether the bearing from an SD4 extruder the same type as the SD1/2/3 acrylic extruders?)

I think you're right about that as well.  I wasn't really sure what to do about that, maybe a larger bearing?  Or maybe file off a bit of the filament guide? 

Thanks for the help!

9

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

aecarver wrote:
AZERATE wrote:

Well, you might want to make posts like this in the Help section...but it's good smile

It looks like you assembled it wrong. The bottom midsection of the heatbreak should be flush with the top of the heating block, then tighten the nozzle. Seems like the nozzle is too far from the block causing filament to gum up before distribution...just a theory. But a couple other pics at different angles and a bit more info might help.

EDIT: To clarify, the heatbreak has a longer then shorter threaded end. the shorter end is what you want on the bottom toward the block.


Awesome, thanks for the advice.  I'll take some more pictures when I get home from work and upload them here.  But I think I'll disassemble the hot end and reassemble it (hopefully I won't be dumb and do it wrong this time).

Side note, do you have a suggestion on removing the filament?  Should I disassemble and hope that it comes out that way?  Or is there something else that you suggest trying?

Thanks!


If its ABS, soak in acetone.

10

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

jagowilson wrote:

Sd4 doesn't use the same bearing. That assembly requires a 625zz and the one that comes with the sd4 is too small. I forget what's on the sd4, but I just bought the bearing instead of re-designing the tension arm because the larger bearing just makes more sense from a mechanical perspective to me.

I need to make a post about what hardware you need to use existing mods on an sd4. I'll work on this soon.


So do you suggest that I replace the bearing with something a bit larger?  Is that something that would be carried at a Home depot, or should I be looking online for something like that.

Thank you so much!

11

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

elmoret wrote:
aecarver wrote:
AZERATE wrote:

Well, you might want to make posts like this in the Help section...but it's good smile

It looks like you assembled it wrong. The bottom midsection of the heatbreak should be flush with the top of the heating block, then tighten the nozzle. Seems like the nozzle is too far from the block causing filament to gum up before distribution...just a theory. But a couple other pics at different angles and a bit more info might help.

EDIT: To clarify, the heatbreak has a longer then shorter threaded end. the shorter end is what you want on the bottom toward the block.


Awesome, thanks for the advice.  I'll take some more pictures when I get home from work and upload them here.  But I think I'll disassemble the hot end and reassemble it (hopefully I won't be dumb and do it wrong this time).

Side note, do you have a suggestion on removing the filament?  Should I disassemble and hope that it comes out that way?  Or is there something else that you suggest trying?

Thanks!


If its ABS, soak in acetone.


I wish it was, but unfortunately it is PLA.

12

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

If it is PLA try soaking it in MEK or just hit it with a torch and something like a coathanger or guitar string, but it should just melt out fairly easy if you haven't printed any ABS with it.

Before trying the MEK approach, snip off some PLA and let it soak in a jar with MEK. Wait 10 minutes to see if it has broken down the filament. I say this because MEK has been used to smooth PLA prints, but I have never heard any reports of users clearing a clog with it.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

13

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

AZERATE wrote:

If it is PLA try soaking it in MEK or just hit it with a torch and something like a coathanger or guitar string, but it should just melt out fairly easy if you haven't printed any ABS with it.

Before trying the MEK approach, snip off some PLA and let it soak in a jar with MEK. Wait 10 minutes to see if it has broken down the filament. I say this because MEK has been used to smooth PLA prints, but I have never heard any reports of users clearing a clog with it.


Awesome, great advice.  I'll try that tonight.  Thanks a lot!

14

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

aecarver wrote:

Side note, do you have a suggestion on removing the filament?  Should I disassemble and hope that it comes out that way?  Or is there something else that you suggest trying?

Thanks!

Just heat up the E3d and pull it out.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

15

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

wardjr wrote:
aecarver wrote:

Side note, do you have a suggestion on removing the filament?  Should I disassemble and hope that it comes out that way?  Or is there something else that you suggest trying?

Thanks!

Just heat up the E3d and pull it out.


It wouldn't budge at all when I tried that last night hmm

16

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

aecarver wrote:
AZERATE wrote:

If it is PLA try soaking it in MEK or just hit it with a torch and something like a coathanger or guitar string, but it should just melt out fairly easy if you haven't printed any ABS with it.

Before trying the MEK approach, snip off some PLA and let it soak in a jar with MEK. Wait 10 minutes to see if it has broken down the filament. I say this because MEK has been used to smooth PLA prints, but I have never heard any reports of users clearing a clog with it.


Awesome, great advice.  I'll try that tonight.  Thanks a lot!

MEK doesn't dissolve PLA. Heat is your only solution, strip the hotend down to metal parts only and use a hairdryer/hot air gun.

17

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

elmoret wrote:

MEK doesn't dissolve PLA.

Thank you for the clarification. smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

18

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

elmoret wrote:
aecarver wrote:
AZERATE wrote:

If it is PLA try soaking it in MEK or just hit it with a torch and something like a coathanger or guitar string, but it should just melt out fairly easy if you haven't printed any ABS with it.

Before trying the MEK approach, snip off some PLA and let it soak in a jar with MEK. Wait 10 minutes to see if it has broken down the filament. I say this because MEK has been used to smooth PLA prints, but I have never heard any reports of users clearing a clog with it.


Awesome, great advice.  I'll try that tonight.  Thanks a lot!

MEK doesn't dissolve PLA. Heat is your only solution, strip the hotend down to metal parts only and use a hairdryer/hot air gun.


That's what I'll be doing then!  Thanks again.

19 (edited by jagowilson 2015-01-07 04:29:16)

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

aecarver wrote:
jagowilson wrote:

Sd4 doesn't use the same bearing. That assembly requires a 625zz and the one that comes with the sd4 is too small. I forget what's on the sd4, but I just bought the bearing instead of re-designing the tension arm because the larger bearing just makes more sense from a mechanical perspective to me.

I need to make a post about what hardware you need to use existing mods on an sd4. I'll work on this soon.


So do you suggest that I replace the bearing with something a bit larger?  Is that something that would be carried at a Home depot, or should I be looking online for something like that.

Thank you so much!

More than suggest, it is required for this piece to work wink you will probably have to get it online, I didn't try searching locally. Search amazon for 625zz

20

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

jagowilson wrote:
aecarver wrote:
jagowilson wrote:

Sd4 doesn't use the same bearing. That assembly requires a 625zz and the one that comes with the sd4 is too small. I forget what's on the sd4, but I just bought the bearing instead of re-designing the tension arm because the larger bearing just makes more sense from a mechanical perspective to me.

I need to make a post about what hardware you need to use existing mods on an sd4. I'll work on this soon.


So do you suggest that I replace the bearing with something a bit larger?  Is that something that would be carried at a Home depot, or should I be looking online for something like that.

Thank you so much!

More than suggest, it is required for this piece to work wink you will probably have to get it online, I didn't try searching locally. Search amazon for 625zz


Thanks! I was able to find it at a local hardware store. Took apart the hot end. Cleaned it. Reassembled it. Put the new bearing on and we're in business!


Big thanks to everyone here! I'm back up and running with this great new hot end!

21

Re: Trouble with my new e3d v6 on Solidoodle 4

Fantastic news, glad that went smoothly. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi