Filament not sticking (Page 1 of 3)

I have it turned off right now but I think the bed temp was 55.  Will double check the bed to make sure it is level.

If your printing with ABS, I run my bed at 85-88 and it sticks well enough. My 1st print I tried at 65 (couldn't wait) and it did not stick.

http://wiki.solidoodle.com/leveling-the-print-bed

I had that happen on my first few prints,  after I switched to glass with some hair spray it's never happened again.

Although I have my slic3r profile set down an anchor point near the XY home.

But definitely try the glass bed, I highly recommend it

http://www.soliforum.com/topic/160/glass-bed/

Jon,  On the first image with the tapered plus sign.  I would model in a solid brim as a full square and let it stick that way.  Same as trimming off the brim you have but you get all that extra contact for sticking.  On your second print it doesn't appear that your first layer is getting pressed into the bed, rather it's laying on the bed.  I would back off the z screw a 1/4 turn to see if you can get the first layer a little smooshed to help with adhesion.  That may solve a lot of your issues. 

That's probably one of the worst examples of cooling I've seen so far.  Probably due to the structure of the part and the  amount of perimeters you have turned on as well.

I always get the bed so that I can just barely push a regular piece of printer paper under the extruder: this is insufficient?

Which part are you speaking about?  The second one? That's Tim's Filextruder hopper.  I have 3 perimeters vertically, and 3 layers at top and bottom: you would recommend something different?

That's good for leveling, but then you want to set the z height to make sure you get good adhesion on your first layer.  Check out Ian's blog post on this shows pictures and how touchy the adjustment is. 

http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … st-layers/

Yes I was talking about the hopper print, looking specifically at the bottom layer, unless that's just showing curl after lifting, but it looks to me like your first layer is not deformed, or perfectly round.  If you think of the filament laying on the bed.  If there is no press it's just going to lay on the bed and there's not going to be any adhesion to the bed because there's a single point of contact on a round part on a flat surface.  But if you adjust it just a little bit, you press the first layer flat and get a nice firm flat to flat bond with the bed.

I print that part at these settings:

Layer Height: 0.3mm
Vertical perimeters (minimum): 3
Generate extra perimeters when needed: Yes
Horizontal layers: 4 (top) 4 (bottom)

Infill:
0.8
honeycomb
rectilinear
infill every 1 layer
solid infil every 0 layers

Speed:
Perimeters: 60 mm/s
Small Perimeters: 30 m/sec
External Perimeters: 30
Infill: 75 mm/s
Solid infill: 60 mm/s
Top solid infill: 50 mm/s
Bridges: 75 mm/s
Travel: 75 mm/s
First layer speed: 30

Skirt: 1 loop, 1 layer
Support: off
1.79mm filament, 0.85 multiplier
220degC (I'm using a QU-BD hot end)

No cooling.
Bed set at 80C
Garnier Fructis Hairspray, Strong, about 3 seconds of spray applied to a piece of glass I got from Lowes

That's really all I know to list...

First I'm told a bed temp of 80; then I'm told 100.  Yikes!  How does anyone figure this all out?  What are the criteria that you all are using that pushes you towards or away from hotter or colder bed temperatures?

I mostly use 95 for the bed, with hairspray I can usually start printing at 65 or so and still be good.  Since I model most of my own stuff, if I know it's going to be a tricky part I put a custom brim or add some geometry that can be trimmed to help me stick.