1 Topic by JodyHighroller (edited by JodyHighroller 2014-12-19 01:15:32)

  • JodyHighroller
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Topic: Z-axis hand-knob screw hitting Y-axis bar

The hand knob thing that you use to manually fine-tune the end-stop on the z-axis has a screw on top and after adjusting the knob to the appropriate height to meet the extrudor tip, that screw is literally touching the bar above it that turns the two y-axis belts, anyone else have this problem?

When the y-axis moves it rubs on the screw and i'm sure that can't be good for it. Is there another way to raise the bed's end-stop so that it's closer to the extrudor without having to raise the hand-knob thing so high up?



Thanks.
    ~ Jody

2 Reply by jagowilson (edited by jagowilson 2014-12-19 01:22:59)

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Re: Z-axis hand-knob screw hitting Y-axis bar

It's not good and could severely impact your output quality. I designed an alternative endstop for the SD4 that does not require you to use that gear. You can just insert a screw instead. Search Thingiverse.

One option is to add glass to the bed. This will improve adhesion and also allow you to run the z screw lower. You can also adjust the height of the bed using the 3 screws. I recommend squishing those springs down as much as you can while keeping the platform level so the bed doesn't have as much play.

3 Reply by JodyHighroller

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Re: Z-axis hand-knob screw hitting Y-axis bar

jagowilson wrote:

It's not good and could severely impact your output quality. I designed an alternative endstop for the SD4 that does not require you to use that gear. You can just insert a screw instead. Search Thingiverse.

One option is to add glass to the bed. This will improve adhesion and also allow you to run the z screw lower. You can also adjust the height of the bed using the 3 screws. I recommend squishing those springs down as much as you can while keeping the platform level so the bed doesn't have as much play.

Yeah I figured it wasn't good, the 3 screws on the bottom are about as pushed in as they can be, I'm not sure why it's still riding that high.

How do you get a piece of glass for the platform, do you order from a place that custom cuts a piece to a certain size and thickness?



Thanks for the help!

    ~ Jody

4 Reply by Tin Falcon

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Re: Z-axis hand-knob screw hitting Y-axis bar

How do you get a piece of glass for the platform, do you order from a place that custom cuts a piece to a certain size and thickness?

As far as the glass you have a couple options.  I am using regular 1/8 window glass from the local hardware store held with three binder clips, IIRC about $3 for the glass and a couple bucks for a dozen clips you may want o pick up a can of Auanet hair spray if you use PLA.
Mcmaster carr sells borosilicate glass 1/4 in thick for about $26.
Borosilicte glass aka pyrex is what is used for glass ovenware and lab glass subjected to heat.

And I struggled with the knob hitting as well.

Tin

Tin

Soliddoodle 4 stock w glass bed------Folger Tech Prusa 2020 upgraded to and titan /aero extruder mirror bed
FT5 with titan/ E3D Aero------MP mini select w glass bed
MP Utimate maker pro-W bondtech extruder
Marlin/Repetier Host/ Slic3r and Cura

5 Reply by jagowilson

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Re: Z-axis hand-knob screw hitting Y-axis bar

Glass and aquanet is just as advantageous for ABS as it is PLA.

My suggestion is ditch the binder clips. I used them for a while but unless your build platform is 100% not warped, they will warp the glass to whatever shape your bed is. Instead spray some hairspray on both sides of the glass and cycle the heat bed once or twice. The glass should be stuck like glue. All you'll have to do in the future is re-apply hairspray and put the glass down.