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Topic: Z QUIDE RODS

Has anybody replaced them?The best I can tell they are 9mm. The issue is that the wooden platform has a slight ,what I am going to call a forward lean.I just wonder how hard it would be to replace the bushings.The rods should be easy.

SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

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Re: Z QUIDE RODS

Why do you want to replace them?
I assume you're talking about the solidoodle.

Solidoodle mix and matches metric and non-metric sizes. It might be 9mm, or 3/8" perhaps, make sure you measure with actual calipers.

The forward lean is compensated for by the mounting of the print bed to the platform by 3 screws, so it's not a very intrinsic problem. There's not much downward pressure in 3D printing so once you adjust once you don't need really better support in the up and down of the platform. Drilling would be totally different, of course.

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Re: Z QUIDE RODS

I am building a DIY SD2 at the moment, and went through this just a couple weeks ago. They are 3/8" for sure.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/8291/unt … -rod-size/

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: Z QUIDE RODS

Quide?  lol what was I thinking.

SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

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Re: Z QUIDE RODS

We knew what you meant wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

6 (edited by grob 2014-12-11 00:29:19)

Re: Z QUIDE RODS

Not much point to replace them, unless you're able to modify the bed to allow for a fair bit more distance between the top bushings and the bottom ones... There's not much play in the bushings themselves, but the flex from that whole cantilevering business is pretty phenomenal.

I've always wanted to add a rod to the front though, to stabilise the thing (instead of the usual trolley running up and down the case walls).

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi