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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Extended Z-Stop for SD4
Since the case on the SD4 changed slightly and older Z-stops wouldn't work, I had to make one. As far as I can tell no one has made one yet, so here it is.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:550713
For all your extended Z-stop needs, be it glass, E3D, whatever. I had been using an inverted M3 screw on the stock Z-stop forever. Finally that's over!
Thanks to Claghorn for his SD2/3 design. I copied most of the dimensions from that.
My most recent update to the SD2 variant (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:506638) added extra support to make the bar holding the z-stop screw wider. I got a lot of flexing in the thin bar when trying to move the screw after the locktite had a chance to get really sticky, and the nut popped out :-(.
Yeah I think I used your same dimensions for the bar, but I positioned the nut trap in the center of the bar. I should double check my support and print a spare though, just in case 
I'd also like to make a version that uses a little less plastic. Lotsa waste.
I posted a few awhile back along with the sketchup source. Have a look:
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/7255/sd4 … z-endstop/
Ha. You should've put them on thingiverse. Then I wouldn't have had to duplicate your effort .
Tat mosfets are basically small versions of relay switches. So I fixed the board, and then I added a relay swtich directly from the board. Make sure this relay can handle 30A(Err on the side of caution). Making sure you add a small rectifier diode so as to protect your board. The first Picture shows the Working diagram. The relay was not expensive, and an alternate would be a solid state relay, but it is more expensive. This solution has kept my board super steady and allows for a very fast heat up time.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → Extended Z-Stop for SD4
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