Odd circle test results (Page 11 of 24)

Hahahah. I still can't believe mine isn't dead after shorting bed heat +/- together and causing an enormous, loud spark, or shorting a stepper when I (for some reason) insisted on checking VREF with a multimeter

Or, even when I hooked up the endstops wrong and tied +/- 12V together. It's been through hell.

i don't know what that means. i pushed the rod out as far as it would go to the right, dropped in a ton of glue, and pushed the rod back to the left and let it dry. i put glue on both sides.

it refuses to give up its magic smoke. pretty stubborn

well don't go too crazy. enjoy printing before you rip out everything but upgrades will serve you well. i like the ones ive done so far. Happy to help you with what I can, but only do one upgrade at a time. As noted in your other thread, start with the e3d.

But let's not get too far off base here. I'm going to put a drop of superglue on the bottom side of the belts tonight and try to get my printer going. Let's see what happens.

Apologies for bad quality this time, don't have the good camera right now.

I first show that the teflons or nylons or whatever are tightened by trying to move the carriage piece up and down with no success. And then I twist it.
This isn't seen in this video, but I later noticed, since both my rods are sticking a bit out from the other side of the carriage where the x motor is, that both of the rods are rotating. I could both feel it rotating on my fingers and see it as well.

If anyone is having trouble noticing if the rods rotate by looking at them, you can try to feel the tips with your fingers instead.

I just mean the glue you used might have sticked to the plastic but not to the metal rod. Since the rod has a smooth surface, it can easily slide on the hardened glue which has also taken a smooth surface shape.
Like I said its hard to notice if a symmetrical shape like a rod is rotating or not. Try feeling the tips of the rods with your fingers like I did while your twisting it.
The rods are pretty strong, I just can't imagine twisting them being physically possible if the rods are secured to the plastic parts.

I can list tons of incidents to the contrary where very expencive components fried faster than 1 sec from even less voltage/amps thats why good mutimeters have a 0.1 amp fast blow fuse to protect them and that dont help sometimes and still explodes the meter leaving just a lead wire dangling in your hand and ringing ears LOL

I tried the superglue and it did not work for me but considering my printer's x axis is held together with duct tape and zip ties right now it is hard to say for sure. On the other hand my y axis does glide a little easier since doing it so someone else should give it a shot. You can't hurt anything.

I'll let you all know if the lawsy carriage fixes it all my printer will do from this point on is print spares for it until they are installed.

Good luck guys.

I have a whole set printed but I'm going to print spares just to be safe it'll be interesting to see which versions I actually end up being able to use.

Luckily the LM8UU holders are printed along Z so they came out fine. It's also ok to use a bit of tape to hold them in place I believe. Before I attempt to insert them into the new carriage I need to ensure they work well on the rods. Apparently LM8UUs have a lot of variance so I got 12 and will have to pick the best 8.

Cutting the rods after they arrive is the next step. Getting a hacksaw this weekend and have a friend of mine do it since he works with wood all the time and can use a saw much better than I can.

I may have to work some magic/use bfi (brute force & ignorance) to get the rods to fit into the holes for them in the printed carriage, but it's plastic, so they should expand enough to hold them. The lawsy design uses set screws to hold them in place, rather than epoxy, so as long as I can get them in I'm set.

You should definitely check, you want the two parts to be level--maybe you could use a long board or something layed across to make them in line vertically. What's interesting is my carriage will not twist in the same way yours or nburg8's will. I only had side-to-side movement of the rod that seems to have disappeared after gluing the rods down. There was also a tiny bit of forward/backward play along Y that similarly disappeared.

As for this happening to me, I think it is most likely that this occurred before I glued the rods down. Recall that I had noticed my X-belt was suddenly loose in the same way cipher0's was. If anything the twisting motion prior to gluing it down likely caused this to happen. My printer has seen a lot of use with the rods loose that way (almost 3 spools now, perhaps I print way too much stuff , but I guess that shows us how non-severe our troubles really are), so it's probably been slowly dying since day 1.

I made one last effort to reassemble the carriage. I noticed my bushings were just a tiny bit crooked so I took some air duster and sprayed it sideways on the bushings to cool the surrounding rubber and pop them back center. I learned this technique from adjusting the press fit positive pins on mechanical electronic cigarette mods.

As you can imagine no improvement. The last thing I keep forgetting about is the Y motor's pulley position. However that is screwed down so tight I simply can't budge it. One bit. Not a single movement of the set screw is possible. I even disconnected it and took it off the side of the case to give myself ample room to work on it. I don't know how to approach this problem and move the pulley but it must be tried. I'll get a new motor and pulley if my circles still suck with the lawsy carriage.

Solidoodle also didn't send me all the belts pictured on the product page. They only sent me the 2 Y belts, neither of which were the ones I really needed my Y motor belt is frayed so it needs replacement. I'll contact support and get this remedied.

I haven't actually checked my printer to see if my x carriage part is broken as yours. been pretty busy.
I'll also check to see if my x rods are not glued either and if I can twist my carriage.

How solidoodley of them.
Why don't you just get a roll of timing belt at cheaper price without bullshit mistakes, since you say you don't need closed loop belts?

EDIT: its fine.

Slightly off-topic, but are those GT2 pulleys?  If so, I think the default X & Y steps/mm should be set to 80 vs. 78.74...

I'll try it, but I'm gonna be busy so in the meantime here is the identifying information on my belts.

Also for the record the default axis linear resolution step size (or as marlin calls default axis steps per unit) for x and y is 88 steps per mm, not 80.

78.74 steps per mm. I doubt this will work though because my printer is usually not far off on the dimensions of stuff along X. I don't know how to identify the pulley. No info on it.