Thinking about making a vapor bath chamber for stores (Page 1 of 2)

Both gasoline and acetone fall into the class 1b ( Class IB flammable liquids have a flash point below 73 °F and a boiling point greater than or equal to 100 °F), so as long as proper warnings are on it, I don't think it would be that much of an issue.  It's not like this is intended for amatures.   Price wise ....... no idea, that would be the goal but I haven't gotten out of the idea phase yet.

If you do move forward, I would create an LLC company just for that product. So if you do get sued, they can only take what that LLC company owns and not your money or house.

I would buy it, but only if you hire consultants or experts who design these vapor chambers commercially as validation for the safety of the product. As far as I understand it acetone vapor smoothing is done on commercial plastic products regularly, and I'm sure they've learned a lot through failure, explosions and death. Additionally, you'll want a consultant on OSHA compliance to find out what manufacturers are doing to ensure worker safety with such practices. I doubt you could make this safe enough that I'd want to run it in my garage. It's no offense to you, but I won't handle acetone without gloves, and I sure as hell won't be heating it anywhere that doesn't have an inspected, approved fume hood. It's simply too dangerous.

I've seen people on YouTube heating acetone in those electronic bunsen burners that allow magnetic stirring... in their kitchens. Are they INSANE? Yes.

I'm all about bashing the proliferation of administration, but a lot of the administrative forces at work that would need to be involved with this are concerned with safety, not stifling innovation.

Look up vapor degreasers to see how it is done as an actual product.   A key feature is refrigerated coils at the top of the chamber which causes the fumes to condense before they can escape.   I did this with some copper tube and ice water, and it was very effective.

Aluminum is being dissolved in those cases by the Sodium Hydroxide that is in oven cleaner type products. It won't touch steel or most plastics but like most things it has stuff it can eat (your skin being one of them) and Aluminum is on that list as is grease.

When people talk about Lye or Caustic Soda liquid, that is what that stuff is. It's also why Lye was used to make soap in earlier times, its very good at cutting through grease.

Simmer down, buddy
This may bring some comfort....
I copied this OSHA accident list from the comment line in the link you gave. Reasons like this are primarily why I avoid the acetone chambers and just use a paint bucket in a hot sink.

a link on that site talks about using a rock/brass tumbler for finishing plastic LOL not mine

mmmmmm Prime

When you get it in, let me know the max size you can put in there please.

Lol i actually just found that video. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uBgVFn7DZCs

So I didnt want to wait for shipping, I went a bought it at the worst store on the planet .... walmart ....lol

so 158 mm with no feet on the basket.

I usually pull it as soon as I see the vapor condense on the lid, or earlier.  If you watch the sides of the basket closely, you can see the level of the vapor as it rises.   The smoothing effect will continue for a little while after you pull the print out, so don't try to judge the time by how it looks in the pot.   Its better to do a few exposures at 30 seconds or so with maybe 15 min between them to avoid runaway smoothing. 

Depending on the piece, I might hit it with some 80 or 100 grit sandpaper first to knock down the lines.  Using acetone vapor isn't necessarily a replacement for sanding, but it spares you from sanding again and again with increasingly finer grades of paper after the initial aggressive removal of material.  Sanding also fills the valleys with plastic dust which helps the lines blend in when melted.