Topic: SD4 and E3D V6?
Does anyone have any wiring pictures for this? Also any firmware done for this mod?
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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → SD4 and E3D V6?
Does anyone have any wiring pictures for this? Also any firmware done for this mod?
As far as firmware goes, you first need to be certain which board you have. If it's a Printrboard (it is if printer was purchase in the fall of 2013), you can follow these steps.
en-rage wrote:I just updated my solidoodle 3 printers firmware tonight. It has the Printboard Rev E, my operating system is Windows 7 64bit
These instructions I compiled after talking with Adrian, and reading the existing wiki (http://wiki.solidoodle.com/update-firmware)
A: Download the Arduino IDE (www.arduino.cc)
B: Download Teensyduino (http://pjrc.com/teensy/td_download.html)
C: Download the firmware (https://github.com/ozadr1an/Solidoodle- … in_v1_beta)
D: Download the upload BootloaderHID (http://blog.lincomatic.com/wp-content/u … derHID.zip)1. Install Arduiono IDE
2. By default it installed in C:/program files/Arduino (or program files C:/program files(x86)/Arduino)
3. Install Teenyduino
4. It will ask you where the arduino install is, point it to the above folder
5. Unzip the firmware file to a folder you will remember
6. Open the Arduino.exe (shortcut put on your desktop after the Arduino IDE installed
7. Click Tools, Board (might say Board:Arduino Uno) and select the Teensy ++2.0
8. Click Tools, Serial Port, and change it to the port of your printer
(If you are unsure, and using windows, click the start button, right click computer, click properties, click device manager, and click on ports. Your printer will be the one listed as “USB serial port (Com X) write down whatever the x is, and put it in step 8)
9. Click File – Open
10. Browse to the folder you extracted in step 5, select the file (in the marlin folder) named Configureation.H , double click it or select it and click open
11. You will notice that there are several tabs across the top: Marlin, Configuration.H, ConfigurationStore.cpp etc, select the Configuration.H tab
12. Scroll down until you see (in black as the grey is comments and effects nothing)
#define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 2 (line 22 on mine) Change to #define SOLIDOODLE_VERSION 3
13. #define MOTHERBOARD 62 (line #76 on mine…you can tell the line by clicking the code, and looking at the bottom left, a number will be there, this is the line of code)
Change it to read #define MOTHERBOARD 81
14. find #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1 (line 120 ) and change to #define TEMP_SENSOR_0 6
15. find #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 (line145) change to #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 350
16. 350C is the max the thermister can is good for, the hotend can go higher, but you’ll need a thermocouple instead of the thermister
17. In the top arduino menu, click Sketch, then Verify/compile
18. If you installed Teensyduino, it will pop up a window, just close it
19. If your sketch does not report errors and simply gives you the Binary sketch size and memory use, it is safe to upload. If it reports errors, you have made a syntax error, and should recheck those lines you changed.
20. Before doing the final compile, click file – save (if you do not, it will not upload the changes)
21. Hold down SHIFT and click Compile
22. There has been a .hex file created. Marlin.cpp.hex, in my case (windows 7) it is under C:/users/whateverYourProfileNameIs/AppData/Local/Temp….it will be in the folder
named build-xxxxxxxxx.tmp (the x’s are a string of numbers) created today. You must have view hidden or system files enabled in folder options (control panel. Have view folders by icon instead of category enabled, folder options,view, check Show hidden files and folders)
23. Unzip the BootloaderHID.Zip (step D) to a folder
24. Copy the Marlin.cpp.hex file, and past it in the folder above (the bootloaderHID folder
25. Make sure your computer is connected to the printer via usb cable
26. Add a jumper to the BOOT pins on the printboard (back of the printer) or bend the 2 pins so they are touching , then press the RESET button
27. Open a new command window (click the windows start button, and in the search programs field (windows vista or newer) type CMD.
28. Within the CMD window, navigate to the folder you unzipped the BootleaderHID to in step 23
29. Type “hid_bootloader_cli -mmcu=at90usb1286 -w -v Marlin.cpp.hex” (no quotations)
30. It should say something like “read Marlin.cpp.hex xx bytes, xx% usage, found halfkay bootloader, programming…………………..Booting
31. Remove the jumper, or unbend the boot pins on the printboard (back of the printer)
32. Press reset
33. Verify that you have updated them, start up Repetier Host.
34. Click Connect
35. Look at the bottom of the screen, you will see a greeting msg when you connect it should now read
02:09:14.238 : echo:Unknown command: ""
02:09:14.405 : FIRMWARE_NAME:Marlin V1; Sprinter/grbl mashup for gen6 FIRMWARE_URL:http://github.com/mlaws/solidoodle2-marlin/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Solidoodle EXTRUDER_COUNT:1
02:09:14.405 : echo:Active Extruder: 0
If you see the address changed to github.com instead of solidoodle, you know you're golden
Wow thanks man with double check my board!
I'm thinking about upgrading to the e3d on the sd4 and i bought it last month. any advice on firmware? does anything need to change besides pid autotuning?
Azerate, you said in the above:
15. find #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 225 (line145) change to #define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 350
16. 350C is the max the thermister can is good for, the hotend can go higher, but you’ll need a thermocouple instead of the thermister
But this is on the official E3D v6 instructions:
- Set the HotEnd temperature to 285ºC. If you did not do a PID tune, then approach this temperature slowly, exceeding 295ºC will permanently damage the thermistor.
So I am a bit confused...I set my Maxtemp to 290...can I go higher?
Thanks for checking that!
From what I've read, you can go past 300c if you use a thermocoupler. I set mine to 290 +/- due to paranoid reasons
I have swapped thermistors a couple times with that temp, and while I have the temp higher than the linked statement, I am convinced it is due to motion rather than the setting since I have not reached past 270c with any other thermistor since the initial heating.
Elmoret could chime into the thermocoupler statement with more expertise than I have. ![]()
Who has actually done the thermocouple instead of the thermistor? Does anyone have any pictures? And where did you get it? I've had some issues with thermistors getting loose and shorting. Maybe a thermocouple could be a permanent solution?
Maximum rated temperature of the Semitec 104GT-2 thermistor is 300C. You might be able to get away with 350C, you might not - it's like driving a truck just a little over the weight limit over a bridge. 295C is a safe limit.
You can go well past 300C with a thermocouple. mdrVB6, do you have a v5 or v6? Typically if a thermistor is getting loose it is a problem with strain relief, especially on a v6.
I have a V6 and yes, I realize it is a strain relief issue. Eventually, I might make a mod to my mount that has a post that the wires can be zip tied onto to prevent movement. I'm still interested in the thermocouple. I've heard of it but never seen one. Do you have any recommendations?
Edit: I did some research and it looks like the thermocouple is basically a thermistor on steroids, so I'm not getting out of strain relieving it. Oh well.
Ok Ive done this mod and the Thermristor came back with max temp. It measures 108k at room temp with my multimeter. The Website replied with a wiki on converting a solidoodle to a V6 and it had the same mods to the code, only they chose define temp 5 instead of 6. Then I noticed in the code for configuration.h it has these listed for 5 and 6:// 5 is 100K thermistor - ATC Semitec 104GT-2 (Used in ParCan & J-Head) (4.7k pullup)
// 6 is 100k EPCOS - Not as accurate as table 1 (created using a fluke thermocouple) (4.7k pullup) So is the reason my V6 thermristor is not working the fact that I chose 6? Its working with the stock Solidoodle for now but I thought I would see what you guys thought.
As stated in the official E3D documentation that you should have followed to assemble the hotend, the correct thermistor table is table 5.
Max temp indicates a short.
thermocouples generate low voltage with heat so not sure how that will effect electronics. also they are usually a bit slower to respond to temp changes than a thermistor. I worked with them in HVAC and appliance repair for over 30 years also other similar devices power piles, flame rods etc.
Im just pointing out that these very helpful instructions are wrong on that one point.....I followed them to the letter and thought I had a bad thermristor but apparently I just needed to put 5 where these instructions say 6. Luckily It allowed me to use my stock one but Ive already updated and compiled a new hex.
One question, I have the newest of the Soliddoodle 4's and my top and bottom stock mount are metal. So when I replace the lower mount with the one for the V6, what are 2 lower screw holes for? I don't have anything there.
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