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Topic: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

I've read through the threads I could find on replacing the Z axis, but they all seem to gloss over the part where you unbolt the Z motor and get the motor and axis assembly out of the solidoodle. I've got a later model solidoodle 2 with the aluminum bed, and just eyeballing it, I don't think it looks like I can raise the bed enough to get it off the Z-axis before the carriage jams into the surface of the bed.

Is it really that simple? Or am I going to have to disassemble something else somewhere to get the parts out to replace the threaded rod?

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

Never done it...but couldn't you uncouple the rod from the motor and unscrew / remove the threaded rod from the top?

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

IronMan wrote:

Never done it...but couldn't you uncouple the rod from the motor and unscrew / remove the threaded rod from the top?

Uncoupling the rod from the motor is why you need it out with plenty of space around it :-). It is press fit with locktite and needs giant forces applied with nuts and large wrenches.

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

Claghorn wrote:
IronMan wrote:

Never done it...but couldn't you uncouple the rod from the motor and unscrew / remove the threaded rod from the top?

Uncoupling the rod from the motor is why you need it out with plenty of space around it :-). It is press fit with locktite and needs giant forces applied with nuts and large wrenches.


Wow...never knew that!  Seems like a flex coupler and set screw would've been the way to go...

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

IronMan wrote:

Wow...never knew that!  Seems like a flex coupler and set screw would've been the way to go...

That's what will be on it after I get my new M3 rod installed (which will only happen if I can get the old one out :-).

6 (edited by IronMan 2014-10-01 19:54:54)

Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

Nice...

Not at my SD2, but if the threaded rod is pressed on, then removing the mounting screws from the Z stepper motor and then removing the 2 guide rods (via the Hose Clamps) should free the whole business up to tip it and unscrew the rod from the platform.

Sounds like it would be easier to just buy a new stepper motor and switch the whole thing out instead of prying and wrenching (or bending the motor drive shaft)!

Edit:  Wait...M3 rod?  seems kind of small.  The stock rod is M5 I think...and BTW what is wrong that you need to replace it?

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

M3 rod is more flexible, so you get less z-wobble.

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

Sweet...built-in flex coupler!!

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

9

Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

Stock threaded rod is 5/16". At least on mine...
I'm probably gonna do this mod over the winter. Good luck Claghorn! I may bother you for some insight in the future wink

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

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Re: Extract Z motor and Z-axis assembly?

IronMan wrote:

...and BTW what is wrong that you need to replace it?

I think I screwed up one spot on the existing threads when I was experimenting with my bed level detection using a force sensitive resistor. A couple of times, my firmware mods ran away and cranked the nozzle hard into the bed. Ever since then, I seem to always have a layer at about 4mm above the bed where Z doesn't move up as much as it should, so there is a slightly squished line the same height on everything I print :-(.

Besides, the finer thread and more flexible shaft seem like a good idea (and I basically got the solidoodle to tinker with anyway - I recently got some 80lb test braided fishing line, so that's another mod that is probably coming up soon).