1 (edited by a3393341 2014-09-22 18:33:16)

Topic: weird artifacts

Here's an STL Im trying to print: http://www.solidoodles.com/uploads/doodle?id=424

Can someone explain what these strange artifacts are and how to prevent them?:

highlighted in red
http://i.imgur.com/wA6HH4q.jpg

close up:
http://i.imgur.com/SHBp5aO.jpg

solidoodle ABS, 0.3mm layer height, Repetier Host, sliced with Slic3r.

This artifact was even more noticeable when I printed a Z axis adjuster replacement. http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:281477
The two holes where the screws had to go had similar holes on their sides, they were even see-through at places.

2

Re: weird artifacts

if you print holes in a side wall you need much more parameters to keep that from happening. any holes in print horizontal or vertical need 4 to 10 "side wall layers" = Parameters for good fill and strength and if hole is to be used as mount/attachment it should be printed lying flat for best strength from being cracked at layer seams.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

3

Re: weird artifacts

Sorry I didnt understand what you mean.

4

Re: weird artifacts

what do you have Parameters set at in Slicer? looks like to low

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

5

Re: weird artifacts

Which parameter? They are all default. Which one(s) should I change to avoid this effect?

6

Re: weird artifacts

I think n2ri means 'perimeters', not 'parameters'. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

7 (edited by n2ri 2014-09-23 03:43:51)

Re: weird artifacts

I have not found many default settings that produce good results. may have to change some even for each material/color used besides object being printed may need settings tweaked plus positioning flipped, scaled etc. I have a couple dozen different Slic3r profiles saved depending on these factors also be sure to do all printer calibration tests/adjustments to prevent wasting lots of time and material on printing fails. patients is a virtue on this.

maybe you can put your printer info in your signiture like most of us have also for better replies to issues your having.

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs

8

Re: weird artifacts

So you're saying for each plastic color and plastic type the settings have to be different to look good? Can you share theSlic3r settings for natural color abs please?

Here are some more pics showing ugly artifacts of my newer print (same STL):

http://imgur.com/F4Z19Af
Two circles in the front have those holes on their sides, also the area connecting one of the circle to the other is less thick then the rest of the walls, among other things.

http://imgur.com/ywdcjhk
Here you can see a (burnt?) hole on the top of the bigger circle.

http://imgur.com/Qvh13lp
Same as the first image. The areas between the circles are thin

http://imgur.com/UkLn9Gv
The bottom part, its like few layers are missing or it was cut with a knife

9

Re: weird artifacts

BTW these are my Slic3r settings (the 0.3mm preset).

http://i.imgur.com/0cuzqzE.png

http://i.imgur.com/yKIZUOc.png

http://i.imgur.com/gXwHchr.png

10

Re: weird artifacts

each printer depending on how manufacturing assembly was done can have slight variables that may need tweaking in slicer etc. Neutral ABS is closest to base default settings I find.
the "burnt" hole in your pic may have been either a spec of dirt or extruder too hot and made it pop as extruding looks like.
today I had issues getting a thin flat object to print solid without leaving lots of hollow surface crevices no matter how I re-configured slic3r on 4 prints of same file. and I just calibrated printer for fine tiny prints of several other STL files even with bridges. so its mostly trial and error working through some issues Im sorry to say. once you get a profile that works and save it with name so you remember type prints its for you will enjoy printing a lot more. my printer seems to do better quality at slower speeds than most run at. but fast and fair is not acceptable to me so I dont mind waiting 2-4 times longer for nice quality. also fast running is harder on printer components.
main thing to look at on rough side wall surface is have enough perimeters to cover infill well, and maybe slow speed of those areas being printed so it dont rip melted plastic loose moving past too fast. and let it smooth extrusion better. finer details need slower time. and dont over heat material. as stated above each printer can differ but mine ABS extruder set at 195c bed at 80c works as close to perfect as I can get. try doubling Perimeter layers and use at min 5 solid layers top and bottom. no speeds over 60 outside perimeters 40 and small and gap fil 30, bridges 10. most my prints are N scale vehicles etc so micro details. I have some infill etc thats thinner than Blonde hair strands. lol

Solidoodle 2 with Deluxe kit cover & glass bed with heater. and 2nd board SD2 used not 3rd and alum platform not installed yet still wood. also need cooling fan installed to board. use Repetier Host couple vers. Slic3r also have all free ware STL programs