1 (edited by kungfudork 2014-08-17 21:04:53)

Topic: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

Greetings everyone, I am new to 3d printing.  I bought a SD4 about 3 weeks ago.  I've done most of everything I could find here on calibrating the printer.  I am using a glass bed, I updated to the latest  Slicr and the latest RH.  I've leveled the bed, calibrated the extrusion, aligned the XY belts and set the tensions, and set the Z.  My prints run pretty well but usually an hour or so in things on the left side of the printer start to come up, then it seems as I let it run it comes up from the bed more and more.  Here is a pic I took about 20min ago, now it's even more separated.  Any advice?

I'm really enjoying the printing and all the great info here.  Thanks!

_dieter

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SD4 glass on stock bed

2

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

No image was displayed. You can easily post pics by uploading the image to an account on imgur.com, selecting which image you want, copy the "Boards and Forums" code, then paste here in comments.

Regardless, here are a few pointers:
*The higher the infill, the better chance for lifting. Since as the filament cools, it will constrict.
*For printing ABS, you want your bed temp between 100-110.
*If PLA, 60c works fine for me.
*You can spray hairspray on the glass if you are not already. I've experimented with many prands, but AquaNet Extra Super Hold works the best.
*Many users claim those purple glue sticks work wonders,
*Make sure you do not have too much distance between the nozzle and the bed. You want your first layer to look more like a fat, flat ribbon.
*A good brim will help since you will cover more surface area. This will require some cleanup.
*Use a raft. This will help maximize adhesion. This will require even more cleanup.

Hope this helps!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

3

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

Thanks AZERATE! 
Here is the pic:
this site won't let me add a link sorry, hopefully decoding this will help w()w()w()(dot)kungfudork(dot)com/pics/KFD_printBed.jpg


My bed temp is 105
I'm using AquaNet extra super hold
I used a 3mm brim
I had a 25% infill

It always seems that prints come undone on the left side of the bed, but I've leveled it multiple times and added the glass.

This 4hr print is almost done now, and compared to the picture above both pieces on that left side are about 1/4 inch up from the bed.  So that side of my mold is too warped for them to connect together.  I will try again with a larger brim and use a raft.

SD4 glass on stock bed

4

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

Still no image. Most likely because you only have 2 posts...anti-spam feature.
Anyway, I think a 3mm brim should be fine. I would say raft it up!
Is it lifting on every print or just the large/long prints?

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

The hairspray seemed to handle the smaller prints.  I was able to print the solidoodle sheep a few times.  It seems anything that is a bit longer it wants to pull up on the left side of the bed. 

I will "raft it up" and post my results. 

Thanks again for the input!

SD4 glass on stock bed

6

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

Your bed is obviously low on that side.  If your using clips to hold your glass take them off and use hairspray to hold the glass to the bed.  Then squish your first layer more and if that doesn't work decrease the first layer extrusion width to roughly half .24 or so.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

Glue stick holds so well I've had to round the bottom of my prints so i can get them off.

8 (edited by kungfudork 2014-09-01 17:39:13)

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

Thanks for the help everyone!  I am using glass and hairspray, it seems to be working well.  Here are a few prints I was able to get.
This forum kinds of sux that I can't post links to any pictures.....LAME!(added files below, if that works)

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SD4 glass on stock bed

9 (edited by grob 2014-09-02 01:31:16)

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

My trick is to upload the image like you've done, post, preview the image, copy the image link and then edit the post using that between img tags like so:
http://www.soliforum.com/misc.php?action=pun_attachment&item=6183&download=0
Others use imgur instead; that's quite easy too.

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

10

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

I used aquanet to attach the glass to the stock bed, but use elmers glue on the glass. Have had *no* lifting issues since I started doing that.

Stock SD4 with 3/16" glass attached to stock (kapton-covered) bed with Aquanet.

11

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

I am having issues as well. So far I have found the bed to be bent in a slight arch left to right and the temp whilst set and regulating to 105 degrees C on the Repetier software is actually measured at 81 to 87 degrees C. For small prints, its fine but large ones lift eventually.

I am sorting this out with the support guys.

12

Re: Still having bed sticking issues, any advice?

theres also this, i like it

http://www.buildtak.com/

Overkill is underrated!!!