1 Topic by Proteus

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Topic: PLA Filament Jamming

I decided to break out my PLA again just because of the less hassle with warping, and I wanted to print the PLA motor chassis on Thingiverse. I encountered a problem I've fought before with PLA. Basically, at a random time the extruder gear will slip off of the PLA. When this happens there's a constant clicking sound because it constantly slips. No more filament extrudes until I shut off the print, retract the entire line, and cut off the last 6 inches of filament.

How do I fix this? Thanks!

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

2 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

You have a clog. If you have a stock hotend, it will only get worse and more often...especially when printing PLA.
I had the same problem until I upgraded to an E3D. By upgrading to an all metal hotend like said E3D, you are able to get more accurate temp readings, have the ability to print other materials like nylon and whatnot, and you will rarely get clogs...you pretty much have to try your damnedest to clog up.

You can order here.
*I am not affiliated with Filastruder in any way*

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3 Reply by Proteus

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

AZERATE wrote:

You have a clog. If you have a stock hotend, it will only get worse and more often...especially when printing PLA.
I had the same problem until I upgraded to an E3D. By upgrading to an all metal hotend like said E3D, you are able to get more accurate temp readings, have the ability to print other materials like nylon and whatnot, and you will rarely get clogs...you pretty much have to try your damnedest to clog up.

You can order here.
*I am not affiliated with Filastruder in any way*

No no no, this ONLY happens with PLA. And if I break it out and cut off the chewed up piece of filament it extrudes fine. No clog. This does not happen with ABS, Nylon, or TGlase. It has to do with the extruder gear I think. (Also, I have an E3D, and yeah temps are way better tongue)

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

4 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

LOL...would have helped putting that in your signature tongue
Before deducing the gear is to blame, keep it simple. What brand PLA are/have you using recently?

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5 Reply by Proteus

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

AZERATE wrote:

LOL...would have helped putting that in your signature tongue
Before deducing the gear is to blame, keep it simple. What brand PLA are/have you using recently?

I'll do that with the sig tongue

I'm using SainSmart Purple/Blue PLA, if that helps.

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

6 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

Just making sure you aren't using "Bubba's" PLA wink
I have heard mixed reviews of SainSmart...even on Soliforum. If you have some on hand, or cheap access to something of a higher quality PLA, try that before buying a new gear. It could be as simple as temp settings or the thermistor failing/falling out of place oh so slightly.

And check your PM

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

7 Reply by Proteus

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

AZERATE wrote:

Just making sure you aren't using "Bubba's" PLA wink
I have heard mixed reviews of SainSmart...even on Soliforum. If you have some on hand, or cheap access to something of a higher quality PLA, try that before buying a new gear. It could be as simple as temp settings or the thermistor failing/falling out of place oh so slightly.

And check your PM

I doubt it has anything to do with the temp settings, to be honest I think it is a mechanical failure because switching to ABS removes all issues.

Or, is it possible my temps are too low? I'm using 215C.

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

8 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

That doesn't sound too far off from what I run (218-225), so it does sound mechanical from my point of view.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

9 Reply by Proteus

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

Tomorrow I will try it 10C higher and test it out. If that doesn't help then I believe it has to do with the stiffness of the filament.

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

10 Reply by CarstenBe

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

I got the same problem with PLA and my e3d v5, i got a v6 on its way that (hopefully) works better

Solidoodle 4. Glass bed. E3D v6

11 Reply by Proteus

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

Tried it at 225C and it still jammed. It is ... strange. It almost appears to be a clog, since the filament will not go down. When I pull it out, rather than the filament getting stringier and thinner it simply ends at a point like it snapped off within the barrel.

I don't know where to go from here.

SD2 w/ Heated bed. Mods: E3D MK5, Lawsy MKV, Glass Bed, printed filament stand

12 Reply by roli (edited by roli 2014-09-13 00:39:37)

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

I will hijack this topic a bit. I am having very similar issues as well. Though they run a bit deeper with me.

Last week I upgraded to e3d (v6) after a lot of problems with the stock hot end. I used PLA on the stock hot-end once or twice and didn't have any problems with it (printed fine at 170°C and the bed at 70°C).

Now with e3d I am having much different issues. First layer sticks badly to the build surface (especially corners) and sometimes it just prints something and then makes a hole in that spot later on (I have no idea how - probably when the hot-end passes through). These problems weren't present with the stock hot-end. I tried running the e3d at 170, 200 and 230°C and all of them with the same results.

And sometimes it just stops extruding all together and starts grinding the filament. When I replaced the hot-end I also replaced the extruder gear (it was a bit fucked-up) so all of this shouldn't be a problem. But it still stops printing. And when it stops I can't even do a in-the-air extrude. The only way to get it working again is to let the printer cool off completely and heat it up again. Then it will extrude in the air just fine. ABS on the other hand prints perfectly. No grinding, no holes, nothing.

13 Reply by roli (edited by roli 2014-09-13 22:29:35)

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

Here are some pictures to demonstrate the problem.

The first image shows the problem. The edges near straight lines are jagged and not smooth. And then there are the holes in the print.

The jagged edges problem becomes much worse on next layers because the layers on those parts don't stick together very well. This is shown by the second image.

All of this is made worse because the hot end actually scrapes over the existing layers. It's almost like it doesn't move enough in the Z axis when going to the next layer. And I don't know why this happens. This doesn't happen with ABS. I think. Or I just didn't notice it.

That could actually explain the filament getting stuck as well. If the z offset is too small it just tries to print into the existing plastic because there isn't enough space to extrude the plastic.

EDIT: Actually the jagged edges appear with ABS as well. They just don't interfere with the print. Though there are no holes in an ABS print. And the filament flows perfectly. Though I can still hear the extruder scraping against old layers when it moves on top. With ABS it doesn't cause any issues but with PLA it does.

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14 Reply by michael.t.albers

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

I'm gonna throw out a couple of ideas, roli.  On my Delta printer, I was getting something similiar until I adjusted the horizontal radius.  I would imagine if the rod on the solidoodle was bent, you may get the same issue.  Also, check your belts to makes sure they are tightened correctly.  Finally, since it looks like you are using glass and I am assuming you have levelled out your platform, make sure the holder for the hot end is holding it firmly.  You may be getting wobble from the hot end.  Hope you get it solved!

15 Reply by roli

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Re: PLA Filament Jamming

Well the bed is level. That is the only thing that I am certain about here. Hot end should be held pretty firmly as well. At least it doesn't wobble if I try to move it and it looks perfectly still while printing as well.

I don't think the belts are really the problem either. It really seems more of an issue in Z axis not anywhere else. I added lift to the gcode and while it stops the scraping when traveling it still sometimes scrapes the bottom layers when printing the next ones.

Maybe the primary cause of this is the model that I am trying to print. Those layers that don't stick to each other should be under an angle. Maybe PLA is just too soft to be printed like that on the first layers. I can constantly print the same model with ABS without any issues.

Though the edges aren't perfect with ABS either. But those jagged edges are only apparent on the first layer. Next layers seem to be more or less fine. The surprising thing here is the fact that the pattern is really regular and not at all random. It almost looks like a sinus wave.