The gears fusing is the real problem trying to do that print. As I said, I had to do a custom one and change the tolerance before I got one where I could break the gears loose and get it to spin. To get mine to break loose required tapping on each individual gear with a hammer then a fair amount of force applied to turning it. I literally crushed the first two prints attempting to get it to turn.
As to how the gcode was created, I did the slice in both (normally I don't since I don't need the correct XYZware settings) and yes, I used the XYZ file for the header info which gave the correct number for size and filament needed so the display would be as accurate as it could be for a time estimate. As to layer count that is always in the Cura output anyhow, so you can grab that from there if your wanting to keep an XYZ header.
On the temp end, I'll give you the answer that I learned from reading Voltivo's blog (they make Excelfil filament). His opinion is that you print at the absolute lowest temperature you can that the layers still bond together properly. This leads to cleaner prints with less stringing and less issue with fusing of parts that should be separate. Since my experience is limited I go with the suggestions made by those who are in a better position to know, but I personally can't guess if your print needs more heat or not.