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Topic: slic3r issue

Hi all, I hope this isn't covered elsewhere but basically I can slice in slic3r no problem and I've encoded the file in notepad ++ but when I open it in xyzware and press poring the software crashes. I also realised that slic3r seems to not be outputting info relating to temperatures etc. Is this what's causing the issue ? The whole reason I want to use slic3r is to improve the layering effect I get from the prints in xyzware.

Any help would be much appreciated

Regards

Grant

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Re: slic3r issue

You may want to "use a lower revision" modded version of XYZware that prevents you from having issue's importing in already sliced objects. You also won't need to encode in notepad ++.

The other simple fix is to add a cable to the SD card and print directly from the printer. Last fix that you could try is a bit more complicated in that it requires using alt firmware (Repetier and it's a warranty voider) and then you can do whatever you wish, but setting the machine up is more difficult.

All of these things are discussed here and on Voltivo's forum. Software is available on Voltivo's forum as well.

I personally print from Cura, run Notepad ++ search and replace of G0 with G1 and then save to a SDcard as SAMPLE03.gcode. I then put the SDcard back in the printer since I did the cable mod and then use the menu to print the "Star Vase". So I can attest to the fact there are many ways to avoid XYZware if needed. I still have hopes of XYZware improving enough to be a true competitor quality wise on printing.

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Re: slic3r issue

I have tried following your instructions regarding cura and notepad ++ I found and replaced the G0 with G1 and loaded the SD card into printer. I selected Vase and then it began heating the buildplate but then I hit a problem. The extruder travelled all the way to the front left of the printer, the belts rattled as if the head was trying to move even further and the extruder began squirting ABS out.

I have loaded the vase .gcode back on to the SD card now but I checked cura settings and couldn't see anything obvious that I did wrong. I set the print area to 200 x 200 x 200 mm and it looked good until it tried to actually start printing.

Any ideas ? I'm a bit stuck

Regards

Grant

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Re: slic3r issue

Well, here is my Cura profile. I believe it has all the information needed to make the program work. It's set for .1 layer height and 1.2 mm top and bottom layers. Bed is set at 90 and Head at 200. I've also made a minor change to prevent it altering what get's shown on the printers display by commenting out the "Printing" command.

You'll have to grab the file off my Pogoplug Cloud link.

http://ppl.ug/Nhw5J2SX3wQ/

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Re: slic3r issue

On a side note, if you have something that you want sliced that is on Thingiverse, I'd be happy to slice it and make the changes I normally do and send you the result so you can compare it to what yours is doing.

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Re: slic3r issue

That would be really helpful actually... I am trying to slice bearing6 which is a planetary gearbox... I can't get the link at the moment because works It equipment blocks the site but I will add the link tonight if you can't find it already

Thanks for your help

Grant

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Re: slic3r issue

If it's one of Emmets gear bearings, I can slice it for you. I'll warn you in advance it took me 3 tries on mine to get the tolerance out far enough that the gears didn't fuse together and it could be spun.

In any case, here is the "finished" Cura slice that can be renamed and printed. It has the correct header so it should give you the proper LCD screen readout. It can be printed directly from the SDcard if renamed to SAMPLE03.gcode http://ppl.ug/NZr1GwVGqhw/

This is the slice that XYZware did for the same object. Notice it is a MUCH smaller gcode file, so I suspect it's not a great slice. http://ppl.ug/LdsCeKqk11s/

Just so you know how the Cura file will work. Once the bed gets up to temp, the head will move and you think it's going to print, but it won't. The head will go park itself and the bed will home then move down 15mm. The head then moves to the bed while the bed is moving up and it will start printing at that point.

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Re: slic3r issue

Its printing as I type this and so far so good. I have realised I had Cura set to Ulticode instead of rep rap which has solved some of my differences but I am still missing the dimensions and blurb at the top. Do you slice in XYZ to give you the dimensions and number of slices and then import that along with your header information into the gcode file ? I think I am about 90% there with this and I'm getting excited.

Thanks very much for helping by the way its brilliant !

Cheers

Grant

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Re: slic3r issue

As a follow up the gearbox got about half way through and then the filament stopped feeding. I cancelled the print and the gears were fused anyway which is a shame. I am printing abs should should the temp not be 230 rather than 200?

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Re: slic3r issue

The gears fusing is the real problem trying to do that print. As I said, I had to do a custom one and change the tolerance before I got one where I could break the gears loose and get it to spin. To get mine to break loose required tapping on each individual gear with a hammer then a fair amount of force applied to turning it. I literally crushed the first two prints attempting to get it to turn.

As to how the gcode was created, I did the slice in both (normally I don't since I don't need the correct XYZware settings) and yes, I used the XYZ file for the header info which gave the correct number for size and filament needed so the display would be as accurate as it could be for a time estimate. As to layer count that is always in the Cura output anyhow, so you can grab that from there if your wanting to keep an XYZ header.

On the temp end, I'll give you the answer that I learned from reading Voltivo's blog (they make Excelfil filament). His opinion is that you print at the absolute lowest temperature you can that the layers still bond together properly. This leads to cleaner prints with less stringing and less issue with fusing of parts that should be separate. Since my experience is limited I go with the suggestions made by those who are in a better position to know, but I personally can't guess if your print needs more heat or not.