1 Topic by airsoftwarrior345 (edited by airsoftwarrior345 2014-08-11 20:39:59)

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Topic: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

Hello guys, So today I started setting up my solidoodle 4. I easily fixed the y axis belt binding, but I'm still having a x axis problem. The x axis moves, but it makes this resistance sound. My first guess was that it needed some lube on the rods, but I put some super lube on it and it didnt seem to do anything. The sound seems liek it may be coming from the motor.

The rod that I was suspicious of has little visable grease on it, like the bearing or whatever it is is too tight on the rod compared to the other. The bearing thing had a buildup of grease on the end, like its rubbing it off the rod because of its tightness.

Do you guys know what my problem is? I searched around and cant find many x axis problems.

Heres the soundclip. The first one is moving the x axis, then the one that sounds good is my y axis to compare it to. The backround sound is my computer fan.

soundcloud.com/airsoftwarrior345/voice0001 (The add file wont work, so I'm giving a link... I apologize for any rule breaking)

Thanks

2 Reply by mdrVB6 (edited by mdrVB6 2014-08-11 20:55:13)

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

Your problem is likely that solidoodle using cheap, poor quality rods and bearings that wear down and fail in a relatively short time frame.  After the second time that my X carriage got badly stuck, I did a complete tear down and installed the Lawsy carriages (sticky post over in hacks and mods) on new smooth rods from McMaster.com with high quality bearings.  This completely solved the problem for me.  Just like you, greasing the rods did nothing for me.  I measured the stock rods with calipers after taking them off and found they were way out of tolerance.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

3 Reply by airsoftwarrior345 (edited by airsoftwarrior345 2014-08-11 23:34:01)

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

I have a feelign that you are right. I'm hoping its an easy fix, but if I do need to replace these parts, can I like just print the x carriage, or do I need to print the whole set. I'd like to replace as little as possible right now seeing that I'm extremely new to this stuff and would rather not be pulling it apart.

If my rod is too tight for the bearings, could I sand it with very fine sandpaper to make it slide better?

Also, I don't know if my printer is exactly in good working condition. Would this sound its making cause extra wear?

4 Reply by mdrVB6

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

I don't think you will get the existing X rods and carriage off without destroying the Y carriages too.  Might as well replace Y carriages too, that way you only have to tear it down once (hopefully).  Also, bearings probably come in like a 12 pack so you will have plenty.

SD4 w/ RUMBA, E3D Volcano, all bearings, glass bed

5 Reply by wardjr

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

If you pull the belt off you should be able to slide it side to side rapidly.  This will help you figure out where the resistance is coming from.  Also if it is being caused by the bushings being to tight on the rods you may be able to work it loose.  There is no question that switching to linear bearings is a good upgrade.  But, you will want a working printer to create the parts needed.  Trying to exercise the bushings loose is something you can do that is easily reversible.  Also I have found that many users tend to way over grease the rods.  Try something with much lower viscosity (try some oil).

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

6 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED1 … &psc=1 are the bearings I used for the upgrade as well as rods from McMaster Carr.

The rods are more than likely straight when they come from SD, but UPS mess them them up something fierce (I worked for them and saw the horror first hand). There are threads that cover this.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

7 Reply by airsoftwarrior345

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

Tomorrow I will take the belt off and see if it slides fine on its own. Then we will know if its the bar (which is probobly is).

If it is the bar+bearings, would it be possible for me to lightly sand it to make it less tight? Right now I'm very low on cash, and as long as I'm printing ok then I'm fine. The upgrades would make it a little more smooth, but I'm not trying to speed print huge things, so it isnt as necessary.

8 Reply by wardjr

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

Depends on how you plan on sanding them.  Dry them off and try to isolate the stiff area.  I think you'll be surprised how a little exercise will loosen thinks up.  Keep in mind the more you print the looser they will become.  If you sand them you run the risk of creating a rough surface that will file the bushings down in short order.  So if you do sand do it in line with the rod.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

9 Reply by airsoftwarrior345

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

If its tight it could wear in, but judging by the sound its making, do you think it would be bad for the motor to use it? I'm coming from the airsoft modding world, where having my gears to tight dramatically kills performance and up's wear. I'd rather not kill my printer tongue

10 Reply by wardjr

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

Just listened to your link the VREF for that motor is set too high.  Turn it down just a tiny bit and I think you'll find that it will sound much better.  Don't believe me, unhook the belt and the motor will sound just as bad.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

11 Reply by airsoftwarrior345

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

Lol I thought you had already listened to it. The motor is what I was origionally skeptical of, but the grease signs and other stuff told me otherwise.

How do I change the motor thing you are talking about?

12 Reply by wardjr

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

On the board there are 4 stepper drivers. Each of those has a small POT that can be adjusted.  Turn it counter clockwise 1/16 to 1/32 of a turn while moving the motor till it sounds good.  Be careful to not short anything out.  Plastic or ceramic screwdriver is best but small eyeglass screwdriver will work.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

13 Reply by airsoftwarrior345 (edited by airsoftwarrior345 2014-08-12 04:43:02)

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Re: solidoodle 4 x axis movement problem

On my board, what is the screw that I actually turn? I have some things labeled x y and z on the board, but I dotn see any actual things to turn. Is it safe for me to remove my board from its spot its held in as I do this? Its in a little enclosure. I looked at the solidoodle site but it didnt say anything about turning screws, just multimeters and stuff...

Edit: So I found the little tiny flat head screws I need to turn. Is it safe for me to have the board on my desk as I do this? My desk surface is plastic.

Edit again: I got it working. It still has a little of the sound, but its 95% gone. Overall its quieter then the other axis. The other axis has the higher pitch motor sound, but both sound pretty happy. My other rod needs to be lubed tho, would super lube work? Its a silicon grease. I dont have any teflon.