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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → No manual control except to home axis..........
In the middle of a power supply upgrade and got it up and running.... kinda. i have the connection back and i can home the x y and z. Issue is when i try to move things back and forth nothing happens. i have no manual control except for homing. no response from the heating on the printbed either any ideas? its late and im out of em. thanks
Did you double check the voltage? Depending on the PSU, you can adjust the current via trimpot.
Make sure the voltage matches the allowance of the board.
Also, make sure you have all connectors wired properly. ....what PSU did you buy? In this context, models and pictures will help.
I measured the voltage comming out of the original supply. It was 12.72 volts. Set the new supply to almost exactly the same thing. I got the supply that the wiki suggested.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSC … 00_s00_i00
I dont know a lot about dc wiring but I wired the white wire to the negative of the new plug ( outside of the barrel) and the black to the positive ( inside of the barrel).
THIS IS THE MOST FINICKY MACHINE EVER!!!!!!!!! Plugged in the original power supply and everything worked normal. Plugged in the new and everything worked normal ............. wtf? Anyway how did you guys connect the new supply to the sd3? Apparently I got the right plug from radio Shack but its a little loose so ...... its not making a good connection. hmmmm. Hopefully theres another plug at the shack thats slightly bigger.
You need to jumper the three banks together. I know there's a photo floating around here of what I'm talking about. Otherwise you'll have less power than the stock unit. I'm not saying this is your problem just something that needs to be fixed.
Just like that 
That's beautiful work 
kind of looks familiar actually
Why would you have to bridge all 3 terminals? Each terminal doesn't output the same voltage? So that white painted red line goes to the outer barrel of the plug and black goes to the inner barrel, or is it the other way around, and what kind of plug did you use to go back into the sd? I used this, http://www.radioshack.com/product/index … d=2102488, but its not making a great connection, if I wiggle I lose power.
As long as your positive (ignore color) goes to the center of the barrel and negative to the outer of the barrel your fine.
All three banks of that 360 watt PSU output the same voltage...(True). But, and it is a big important "BUT". The amperage is 1/3 the output per bank meaning by using just one terminal you will only get 120 watts. If you want to get the stated 360 watts out of that PSU the banks need to be tied together. As far as color of the wires go it is most common with DC wiring that the Positive wire is Red and Negative wire is Black. That's why I colored them for demonstration and to avoid confusion.
Those colors are considered to universally mean the same thing unless your a manufacturer from China and then it doesn't seem to matter
When it comes to the AC side Black is your HOT wire and White is your Neutral wire with green being the ground.
I don't have a barrel connector on any of my boards so that question is best directed to some one that has had to buy an adapter. You want that connection to be good and solid though. If not it will burn and that could be bad!
Do you have your old power supply? If so, you can bring that into RS to get a perfect fit, or at least get the right model and either order through them, or order off of Mouser.
Or, you could cannibalize the old barrel off of there and splice the old lines into your current setup.
OR, I believe I still have my stock supply. I could dust it off and sell it if needed.
OR, http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:136140 will at least help anchor that puppy.
ok its wired as pictured but i think im going to cannibalize the old power supply for the plug. radioshack sux these days, the n type plug is the only one that fits but it has just enough play in it to lose connection if wiggled. the old one, i wiggled the crap out of it and not even a flicker of light. now when i use the old plug is the old wire thick enough for the new supply or do i have to go with a heavier gauge ? my main adapter cord in the picture above is 18 gauge, same as on a desktop.
Yep you should be fine the main limiting factor is the connector itself. The wire is capable of more current flow than the barrel.
sweet, Thanks guys!!!
But did any of this fix your original problem?
lol. no, like i originally said, it just started working this morning ..... no rhyme or reason, just let it sit for 12 hours and its fine. its done this to me before, im not exactly surprised.
SOLIDOODLE YOUR KILLING ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
copper strands are positive.................. THANK GOD for liquid tape and heat shrink..........
Nice choice in filament, though
If it is any consolation, at least you are almost done!
And as far as your OP goes, I have had that happen to me many many times. I just click "Disconnect" then re-connect. Sometimes close RH, and I get control back. Though I usually only get that problem immediately after a print 99% of the time.
ITS ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thank you guys. again your all saviors. couldnt do it without ya
Nice choice in filament, though
If it is any consolation, at least you are almost done!And as far as your OP goes, I have had that happen to me many many times. I just click "Disconnect" then re-connect. Sometimes close RH, and I get control back. Though I usually only get that problem immediately after a print 99% of the time.
thats usually what i do. Do you ever have any issues with larger prints and that black filament? small prints work fine but if i print large stuff it basically falls apart.
AZERATE wrote:Nice choice in filament, though
If it is any consolation, at least you are almost done!And as far as your OP goes, I have had that happen to me many many times. I just click "Disconnect" then re-connect. Sometimes close RH, and I get control back. Though I usually only get that problem immediately after a print 99% of the time.
thats usually what i do. Do you ever have any issues with larger prints and that black filament? small prints work fine but if i print large stuff it basically falls apart.
If that's Octave black I can tell you from a lot of rolls. I've never had a problem even with near full volume prints ( as in almost 8x8x8).
Personally, the only issue I've had with Octave was lifting (as with other filament brands).
But Octave is the most consistent stuff I've come across. 2/3 of a way through my current spool and I still measure the exact same as the first inch!
Virtual beer to wardjr for turning me onto it 
Oh good it's hot and sticky here I could go for a nice cold one about now.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → No manual control except to home axis..........
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