1 Topic by poorspartin117

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Topic: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

I bought a solidoodle 2 expert right around Easter this and have been slowly figuring it out. i am using abs 1.75mm filament, and need to know the correct temperature settings for this configuration.i am trying to correct sticking/nonsticking problems. Solidoodle's wiki and official site list several different ratios, i do have the Rev-e board on the printer. should i follow these settings

support.solidoodle.com/hc/en-us/articles/202145964-Extruder-and-Bed-Temperature-Settings

or the repetier host settings?

wiki.solidoodle.com/repetier-host-printer-configuration-windows

2 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Open Slic3r and go to "Filament Settings". For ABS, you want between 210-220. Save that in your Filament profile, then open "Printer Settings" on the right side of the RH window. You will have to adjust the temps again to reflect the change...temps will be smooth sailing from there.

If you are still printing on Kapton, be sure to wipe it down with acetone (without heating the bed) and see if that helps. ABS needs the heat to be trapped in since it cools fast, so keep an enclosure on the printer. If you have already done these and properly calibrated your Z tab and leveled your bed, you may have a warped bed. Glass will fix this (or at least mask it to get you back to enjoying printing), then you have a world of options: hairspray, glue, Kapton, ABS/slurry, etc. Then you also know your print surface doesn't have any dips in it.
But before you persue the glass idea, it is strongly advised you have the said Z and bed leveling calibrations in line.

Hope this helps!

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3 Reply by wire10ga

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Isn't the solidoodle extruder run lower temps like 195 -200 due to way it's made? I know I run my SD2 at 195 most of the time with the stock extruder.

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4 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Indeed! The temps read 30c lower than what it actually is due to where the thermistor is placed. I run 245 on my E3D while most users recommend 250. I'm a rebel like that tongue
So I would recommend a little more heat. 210 should work well for you. If it randomly sticks/drags it could be because it is cooling too soon because it wasn't brought to a high enough temperature.

When I first got my printer, I ran 200 or so and never had any good results.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5 Reply by poorspartin117

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Increasing the temp is helping with the dragging issues, i readjusted the z-tab and its in the best position possible. but im having trouble with the slic3r the bundled version runs well but is not perfect how should i set the settings for the solidoodle 2? i tried following the tutorial on support.solidoodle.com under the software category, loading the profile but it caused my printer to super speed through the print and heat up super high. anyone know the correct settings?

6 Reply by IronMan

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Try this if you have not seen it...

http://solidoodletips.wordpress.com/201 … tier-host/

This is a few versions ago for the Slic3r, but the values hold true.  Following this guide for the setup took care of most of my issues!

SD2 - Stock - Enclosure - Heated Bed - Glass Plate - Auto Fire Extinguisher
Ord Bot Hadron - RAMPS 1.4 - Bulldog XL - E3D v6 - 10" x 10" PCB Heated Build w/SSR - Glass Plate
Thanks for All of Your Help!

7 Reply by poorspartin117

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Thanks i got the settings configured well now!

I Had a quick question for everyone, My solidoodle, after i hit start job, moves the extruder around to the center of the print bed but then sits there, just the nozzle pressed against the bed for 15 seconds or so then, starts the job, how can i make it so this doesnt happen because i keep getting clogs because it takes so long for the job to Actually start.

8 Reply by exineport

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Starting g-code maybe? Mine never did that at all.

I tell you what, I have no idea what I'm doing but the glass bed upgrade (with the purple gluestick combo) is beyond amazing.

Solidoodle 2 Pro - 3mm Glass Bed

9 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

Start G-code is what needs to be changed or removed completely.

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10 Reply by poorspartin117

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Re: Solidoodle 2 Temp Question

I figured it out, in Slic3r, I had set the First layer temp and the temp dropped while moving the bed and extruder so it needed to heat up that couple of degrees then start. but it was just sitting in the middle of the platform blocking any extrusion and after some time it would harden and i had to clean it out. but if you change the slic3r settings then no pausing at the start point due to low temps

is this the correct firmware or do i need to upgrade cause i keep getting this message

" FirmwareName:Marlin V1; sprinter/grb1  mashup for PrintrBoard Firmware_URL:http://www.solidoodle.com/how-to-2/how-to-update-firmware/ PROTOCOL_VERSION:1.0 MACHINE_TYPE:Solidoodle_2 Extruder echo: Active Extruder 0 "