26

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

wardjr wrote:
LdyMox wrote:

I have to wonder if I have made my belts TOO tight but really hard to describe how tight they are, nor ask how tight they should be and expect a clear answer.

That's an easy test... Loosen them up a bit wink are you running a fan on your board?

+1

Yup - as you tighten the y belts on the stock bushings / y belt idler pulleys on M5 bolts, the friction will go up. There's a balance between belt slack as it curves around the pulleys (which can add to backlash) and friction in the bushings (which leads to skipping). This balance is different for every printer of course! If you loosen them a touch and the skipping stops, there's your issue. Make sure you also realign when the y-belts after loosening.

The solution is replacing the y driveshaft bushings and y idler bracket mounts with bearings to allow higher tension for less friction, these mods are sticky somewhere on this forum, but involve buying specific parts and are a bit invasive! smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

27

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

grob wrote:
wardjr wrote:
LdyMox wrote:

I have to wonder if I have made my belts TOO tight but really hard to describe how tight they are, nor ask how tight they should be and expect a clear answer.

That's an easy test... Loosen them up a bit wink are you running a fan on your board?

+1

Yup - as you tighten the y belts on the stock bushings / y belt idler pulleys on M5 bolts, the friction will go up. There's a balance between belt slack as it curves around the pulleys (which can add to backlash) and friction in the bushings (which leads to skipping). This balance is different for every printer of course! If you loosen them a touch and the skipping stops, there's your issue. Make sure you also realign when the y-belts after loosening.

The solution is replacing the y driveshaft bushings and y idler bracket mounts with bearings to allow higher tension for less friction, these mods are sticky somewhere on this forum, but involve buying specific parts and are a bit invasive! smile

The good news is that it doesn't involve soldering which we all know Tammy can't do wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

28

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Ouch, burn! (pun intended) tongue
FWIW, I can't seem to tighten grub screws, but got through it eventually. smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

29

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

We all have our shortcomings.  For me it's remembering.... What was I talking about? Oh, that's right. Stuff big_smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

30

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

I don't have a fan on my board, but it dosen't seem to be heat related as much as I can tell anyways. I did losen my belts some and it seem it helpled for now. I may need to upgrade my Y-axis stuff soon if the problems keep returning.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

31

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

This y-axis shift has become a major problem. I can sometimes get it to go away by resetting the belts, loosening or tightening them, sometmes adjusting the voltage but the problem returns a few prints later. It seems to happen a lil more on prints that fill more of the print bed.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

32

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

The only other thing I have not done is a fan on my stepper chips which I guess is next. Since I am wiring inept I guess that's another external fan for me. tongue

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

33

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Nothing like practice though... smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

34

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

wardjr wrote:

We all have our shortcomings.  For me it's remembering.... What was I talking about? Oh, that's right. Stuff big_smile

What... Where am I?  Who am I? big_smile
Add The Fan.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

35

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

I am trying a lil mini fan as soon as I am back up. (need new grub screw for E3D and the part is on it's way!)

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

36

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

LdyMox wrote:

I am trying a lil mini fan as soon as I am back up. (need new grub screw for E3D and the part is on it's way!)

As long as the cartridge stays in place you can print without it.  I had one fall out (poor assembly by me) in the middle of a 12 hour print and it was fine.  A fan on those drivers is important though and at least eliminates that as a problem.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

37

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

I supose I could tape the heating element in place for a few days if I really needed to. But I am just going to wait.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

38

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

So did the screw strip out where the hex wrench goes in or is it the threads your having problems with?
If it's the threads an new screw isn't going to help.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

39

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

I hope it's just the screw. I never got the grub screw to hold the heating element very tight and have been having to retighten it all the time, it just has gotten worst of late.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

40

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

But I am not sure of the orginal problem was on why it wouldn't tigthen and stay tight but where the hex wrench has gone into has surely started to wear down. I manged to get it out enough to use pliers to get the rest out. I am guessing that the material that is the block is stronger material then the screw is made of. So I am hoping a new screw will fix this.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

41

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Aluminum (heat block) is a lot softer than steel (set screw)  If the threads are stripped in the aluminum you are going to have to try some red loc-tite or super glue to hold it in place.  If the screw is just stripped where the wrench goes in then a new screw will fix your problem.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

42

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Well if the new screw don't work, I can resort to loc-tite smile

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

43

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

You should consider getting another printer.  That way when one is down you can keep printing wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

44

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

One option is drill and tap another M3 or 4-40 next to the original. Add two, one at each end, and really secure it.

Could drill and tap for the next size screw if the threads are stripped. Original hole is M3 according the their prints. Drill it out to Ø3.3 and tap it M4.

Loctite might work for a while but the high temp will break it down. Their spec are: Service Temperature: -65°F (-54°C) to 300°F (149°C) for 242 (Blue). 271 (red) has the same range.

45

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Also, you could just put a normal M3 screw in there that's long enough for the head to clear the block... This would use more threads, so the stripped ones right at the bottom wouldn't matter so much...

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

46

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

grob wrote:

Also, you could just put a normal M3 screw in there that's long enough for the head to clear the block... This would use more threads, so the stripped ones right at the bottom wouldn't matter so much...

I like this solution the best.  I don't think Tammy is set up for drilling and tapping and the extra threads should help it hold better.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

47

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Well my new grub screw should be here today (elmoret got that out fast!). Then I can see if the fan fixes the Y-skip. I am just pointing one of those tiny desk fans at the stepper drivers.

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

48

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

That will work... I sure hope that's your problem.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

49

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Well at the very least the first test with pointing a fan at my stepper chips has resulted in a good print and no axis skips. (New grub screw seems to be holding in the heating element great)

Tammy
Solidoodle 2
E3Dv6 Hotend, MK5 v6 version, Glass Bed, Anti Z backlash slop nut, SureStepr SD8825 1/32 Extruder Driver, makeshift breakaway plexiglass case; . L-Cheapo 3.8 Watt Laser Attachment w/Custom built enclosure
From Buffalo, NY, USA

50

Re: Y-axis belt slipping

Good to hear things are going your way.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions