SD3 Power supply Upgrade

With a barrel style connector you can just check for continuity.  The outer of the barrel is your negative and the inner is the positive.  On that PSU you will want to daisy chain the positives together and the negatives together otherwise you will only get 120 watts of power.  When your done it should look something like this.

Hope that helps

I figured as much but wasn't positive so it's always best to check.

Any time you have multiple 12v banks as with most PSU's,  there is a very good chance the advertised output (wattage) is a combination of all the banks.  But I can't say this is true for all PSU's so it is best to check documentation or (like my case) be willing to sacrifice a new PSU to see how it handles that configuration.  For the most part there should be no reason this should cause any form of failure or problems for most PSU's.

Hey wardjr, I'm pretty sure we have the same power supply.  With my RUMBA, I am using two outputs on the PSU, one to the main board input and one to the heat bead input.  Any idea if I should jump the third output to either or both of the ones I am using?  I assume there would be no use to jump between the main and heat bed terminals on the PSU.  I guess it is determined by how much total wattage is used on each input, but I'm really not sure.

Thanks!

Got it, thanks.  I'll be jumping that third output over to my heat bed power tonight.  I will time how long it takes to heat to temp before and after just for comparison. 

500W AC heated bed must be nice!  At that point, I guess you are basically never limited by bed capabilities.