1 (edited by patrickryan977 2014-03-15 22:16:49)

Topic: Solidoodle 2 Led Strip

Hi everybody I recently bought the SD2 base to pro upgrade and i have just about everything figured out except for where the white led strip goes.  I've searched all over the Solidoolde.  There must be something I'm  not seeing.  Also I recieved a new wire sheath with my upgrade.  Is that unusual because from what i can see i don't need it to hook up the heated bed and its not included in the picture on the website.  Thanks for your time.

2 (edited by dubbsd 2014-03-16 18:38:29)

Re: Solidoodle 2 Led Strip

the light strip goes on the top front. inside the angle
see attached photos

Post's attachments

photo 1.JPG
photo 1.JPG 396.94 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

photo 2.JPG
photo 2.JPG 331.84 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

photo 3.JPG
photo 3.JPG 326.72 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.
Ultimaker S3.

3

Re: Solidoodle 2 Led Strip

Hi Folks

I just bought a base model sd2.  Was this mistake?
Trying to keep costs down etc,  but now finding that its near impossible
To stop corner lift. Spent last 4 hrs trying to stop corner lift on object 80mm by 50mm

Why is solidoodle supplying base model without making it clear how limited base object area can be before lift starts ?
Will upgrade to pro kit really go long way to stopping my issue
And lift be stopped with it?
On the plus side resolution on finish good ..

Appreciate insight here..should I order upgrade kit to have any chance of success?

4

Re: Solidoodle 2 Led Strip

The base model is really designed just for printing with PLA.

5

Re: Solidoodle 2 Led Strip

ronsii wrote:

The base model is really designed just for printing with PLA.

+1
Without a heated bed, printing ABS is possible, but very difficult. I have printed in -6c in ABS with a custom acrylic case with poor results. PLA works great in these conditions. But ABS will require higher temps and an enclosed case at least.

If you do not want to upgrade to a heated bed, or do not feel ready for the task:
*upgrade the print surface to glass and apply extreme hold hairspray or glue
*make a case from acrylic...should only cost about $20 if you go hog wild in the design. This will keep the heat in which is needed for ABS since it cools too fast.
*properly calibrate your Z. If you start printing your first layer too high, it may bond other layers, but will guarantee lifting
*calibrate your extruder. If you are under extruding, even if height is dialed in, you will have lifting.
***read through Soliforum as much as possible and post as needed. I have solved so many problems just by scrolling through this site.

Hope this helps! smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!