1 (edited by Photog 2014-05-12 22:04:01)

Topic: mk5 melting

How to fix this? I got rid of the acrylic extruder which now seems like a bad idea because now my MK5 is melting and causing the nozzle to droop to one side, so now I am in a never ending cycle of printing out new MK5 extruders constantly, they stay solid long enough for me to print out a new MK5 then they start melting

My SD3:  Clear plexiglass case, case heater, X axis stabilizer, Z axis stabilizer, thumb screws, filament guide, heatsinks on all motors, extruder fan, controller fan, heatsinks on motherboard, Y rod pillow block, USB and Power on/off switch, fully calibrated including trimpot tuning. Am I missing anything?

2

Re: mk5 melting

What material are you printing them in?

3 (edited by Photog 2014-05-12 22:22:08)

Re: mk5 melting

elmoret wrote:

What material are you printing them in?

ABS. I am also using the stock hot end, not the e3d. Also to clarify, they are melting around the top of the peek, where the locking arm holds the hotend in aroudn the peek.

My SD3:  Clear plexiglass case, case heater, X axis stabilizer, Z axis stabilizer, thumb screws, filament guide, heatsinks on all motors, extruder fan, controller fan, heatsinks on motherboard, Y rod pillow block, USB and Power on/off switch, fully calibrated including trimpot tuning. Am I missing anything?

4

Re: mk5 melting

Case heater's to blame here then. Air temps above ambient+heat from a PEEK based hotend could get you over Tg for ABS.

5

Re: mk5 melting

elmoret wrote:

Case heater's to blame here then. Air temps above ambient+heat from a PEEK based hotend could get you over Tg for ABS.

Any solutions? Something I can coat the plastic in or wrap around it. The case heater really helps making the prints not warp.

My SD3:  Clear plexiglass case, case heater, X axis stabilizer, Z axis stabilizer, thumb screws, filament guide, heatsinks on all motors, extruder fan, controller fan, heatsinks on motherboard, Y rod pillow block, USB and Power on/off switch, fully calibrated including trimpot tuning. Am I missing anything?

6

Re: mk5 melting

Put a fan on the front of the MK5.

7

Re: mk5 melting

Or find a better way to deal with warping than using a case heater at such high temps.  Also I will mention that an E3D is actively cooled with its own fan and I bet would stay cool enough to solve your problem.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

8

Re: mk5 melting

Top fin of an E3D is 1-2C over ambient.

9

Re: mk5 melting

There you go another problem solved wink  Nothing a little money can't fix smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

10

Re: mk5 melting

Can I use a nozzle fan with the e3d if it also has the e3d fan?

My SD3:  Clear plexiglass case, case heater, X axis stabilizer, Z axis stabilizer, thumb screws, filament guide, heatsinks on all motors, extruder fan, controller fan, heatsinks on motherboard, Y rod pillow block, USB and Power on/off switch, fully calibrated including trimpot tuning. Am I missing anything?

11

Re: mk5 melting

Of course.

12

Re: mk5 melting

Photog wrote:

Can I use a nozzle fan with the e3d if it also has the e3d fan?

This is a great design.
But please take note that for this, you will either need to cut down your 4-40 bolts (the ones that go from the back of your carriage to bolt onto your extruder), or buy some from Mcmaster-carr

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

13

Re: mk5 melting

I would like to add the E3d fan runs continuously and is just tied into the extruder fan wires.  A nozzle fan can and should be controlled by G-code.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

14

Re: mk5 melting

AZERATE wrote:
Photog wrote:

Can I use a nozzle fan with the e3d if it also has the e3d fan?

This is a great design.
But please take note that for this, you will either need to cut down your 4-40 bolts (the ones that go from the back of your carriage to bolt onto your extruder), or buy some from Mcmaster-carr

How so? Will I needed a different mk5¿

My SD3:  Clear plexiglass case, case heater, X axis stabilizer, Z axis stabilizer, thumb screws, filament guide, heatsinks on all motors, extruder fan, controller fan, heatsinks on motherboard, Y rod pillow block, USB and Power on/off switch, fully calibrated including trimpot tuning. Am I missing anything?

15

Re: mk5 melting

I didn't have that experience with the bolts.  I'm pretty sure there will be enough left over from the original acrylic assembly to make things work.  I have outfitted 4 SD3's with MK5's and never had to buy new bolts yet.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

16

Re: mk5 melting

wardjr wrote:

I didn't have that experience with the bolts.  I'm pretty sure there will be enough left over from the original acrylic assembly to make things work.  I have outfitted 4 SD3's with MK5's and never had to buy new bolts yet.

For the MK5, you can cannibalize the stock 4-40 bolts. But Boz's mashup extruder which keeps the 30mm E3D fan but adds a 40mm fan for the nozzle would require shorter bolts with the stock carriages (fairly certain even with Lawsy's carriages, but would have to verify that claim). Boz designed his extruder body about 10mm(?) too deep....but this is necessary for it's function.

The MK5 is wonderful and simple. Bottom line. But unless you can design a fan mount while utilizing an E3D that does not entail robbing airflow from the cooling needed for the all metal hotend, Boz's design is the way to go for sure....especially useful if you plan on printing PLA.
If you can design said E3D dual fan mount, I would love to print one!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

17

Re: mk5 melting

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:252918
Sorry Photog....I forgot to add this link in my older post
Whoops!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

18

Re: mk5 melting

Just to clarify for the OP.  With an E3d you can absolutely use a nozzle fan (g-code controllable preferred) with an MK-5 and a nozzle fan duct of your choice.  This can be done utilizing the leftover bolts from the acrylic assembly.  The E3d cooling fan is always on and usually just tied into the extruder motor cooling fan.  AZERATE is referring to a design  that rearranges things creating a replacement E3d cooling duct and moves it to the side.  To allow for the nozzle fan to be located in front.  It is a great design and I am sure it works great.  Your original question was if you could use a nozzle fan with the E3d if it also has the E3d fan?  The answer is yes but what shape and configuration is totally up to you.  I personally prefer my nozzle fan to be located behind the nozzle under the extruder carriage.  I just like being able to see the nozzle and if you can't find a duct that does what you want you can always design your own.  I hope this clarifies your options.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions