1 Topic by AZERATE

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Topic: Bed not reaching temp

I used to print ABS between 105-110. But now the bed takes about 20 minutes to reach 95.
Once I bring the E3D to temp to start the print, the bed temp drops and doesn't want to reach 95, which is the highest temp I can get it to print.
I have now had it ready to start the print just waiting on the bed for over 10 minutes.

Any suggestions??

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2 Reply by ronsii

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

Is this taking longer after the E3D has been installed and is now taking more power? or did you use a bigger power supply. Usually if I am in a hurry I just place a hand towel or hot plate pad on the bed it will insulate it a bit and speed things up.

3 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

Still using the stock power supply the came with my SD2 pro.
However, it will reach 100 when not in motion. When I lower the settings to 94, it stays at 93.8/9 as it does for 95 at 94.8/9.
At first I thought it could be the power supply failing, but I ran just fine with the stock for the last month or so, and the temp issue happens no matter what setting I try.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

4 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

Update
I closed out of RH and started over to test with PLA at 212/60 and everything is working perfect. Bed reached temp very quickly and print started as it should.

Also, I am unsure how long this has been going on for, but my lights are flickering. So I think it could be how much power the E3D is demanding. Which brings me to my next question....

Anyone know of a good power supply at a decent price? Links massively appreciated!

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5 Reply by grob

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

AZERATE wrote:

but my lights are flickering.

Gah! I have this too, it annoys the bejeezus out of me.
I think the problem is probably at the board level, you'd have to rewire the lights direct from the power supply to avoid it I think.

Here's one I think is a good safe pick, but you decide how you feel about $80: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mea … 5tNmzfk%3d

Or if you're brave type "350w 12v power supply" into eBay. I've taken a punt on these things before and have been pleasantly surprised. The prices look around the $30-50 mark. Note that 350W is way more than you need, which means if these things are cheaply made and are actually only good for 200W you're still well in! smile

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
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6 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

This one should do the job, correct?
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulat … supply+30a

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

7 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

AZERATE wrote:

This one should do the job, correct?
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulat … supply+30a

Yep, Don't throw your old one out. (I know how to solder wink )  Did your stock PSU totally fail?

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
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Thanks to all for your contributions

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8 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

wardjr wrote:

(I know how to solder wink )

Showoff big_smile

wardjr wrote:

Did your stock PSU totally fail?

Nope. But I am once again limited to PLA since the bed will not stay at the desired temp, so it is eternally sitting with a warmed e3d in limbo. E3D may be all metal, but I know it can't be good just sitting constantly waiting at temp for the bed.
The lights only flicker when I start heating, so I am pretty convinced the supply is beginning to fail to some degree. Plus, it takes a LLLOOOONNNGGG time to heat the bed. Much longer than before.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

9 Reply by michael.t.albers (edited by michael.t.albers 2014-04-25 15:45:24)

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

After I got the power supply, I just cut off the plug from the old psu and put it on the new psu.  The old psu should have the connections description on the outside and says that V+ is the inner wall and the V- is the outer wall.  you can check this with a voltmeter set for resistance.  Or, you can open up the old psu and see which color wire corresponds with the V+ and V-.  No soldering required smile

Edit: Don't forget to check the 110v/220v on the new psu.  Mine was set for 220v and the printr board was not happy with it.

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10 Reply by grob

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

AZERATE wrote:

The lights only flicker when I start heating, so I am pretty convinced the supply is beginning to fail to some degree.

Same, and it's made worse by the motors moving. All related to how much power is being drawn at any given time.
However, I've got mine hooked straight up to a 30A lab supply (via the original cable/connector) right now and it's still doing it.
I think the limitation is in the printrboard somewhere, maybe the main power connector. All conjecture, I'm investigating further at the moment, but could be interesting.

Power supply you linked looks like a goer (specs are right).

SD3. Mk2b + glass, heated enclosure, GT2 belts, direct drive y shaft, linear bearings, bowden-feed E3D v5 w/ 0.9° stepper
Smoothieboard via Octoprint on RPi

11 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

grob wrote:

Same, and it's made worse by the motors moving. All related to how much power is being drawn at any given time.

Indeed. We are having the same issue.

grob wrote:

I think the limitation is in the printrboard somewhere, maybe the main power connector. All conjecture, I'm investigating further at the moment, but could be interesting.

Power supply you linked looks like a goer (specs are right).

I am currently running on a Sang graciously loaned to me. So I don't think the board is the issue. All fans, except my extruder nema fan, are running off a separate ps with a splitter, so I know it is not drawing too much from mods.
I would enjoy reading the conclusion to your investigations smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

12 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

The main wires going into the stock PSU are soldered poorly.  When the load is high those solder joints get hot and loose connection over time.  With the printer board this is complicated with the barrel connection that also struggles to carry enough current.  Running the heat bed through a SSR(relay) to its own power supply is easy to do and solves a lot of problems.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

13 Reply by adrian

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

Question - what firmware are you using, and did you redo the BED PID stuff with M303 E-1 S95 C8 etc ?
Perhaps the problem is as simple as, BED PID is enabled, but the PID values are way too small...

14 Reply by wardjr

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

adrian wrote:

Question - what firmware are you using, and did you redo the BED PID stuff with M303 E-1 S95 C8 etc ?
Perhaps the problem is as simple as, BED PID is enabled, but the PID values are way too small...

I'm guessing that question is for me?  I don't know exactly what I had on there but it originally came from you.  It worked for him for a while though so I'm guessing power issue.  And yes I changed the PID values to the SD values.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

15 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

Problem solved!
Upgraded the PSU to a Supernight 360w. I let it sit stationary for about 30 minutes for observation (just ask wardjr about my confidence in electrical work smile ), let the bed reach temp for about another 20, warmed the E3D, and ran a test print without lights flickering or temp fluctuations.
Who is stoked? *this guy*

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

16 Reply by wardjr (edited by wardjr 2014-05-02 04:04:46)

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Re: Bed not reaching temp

Nice work, and you say you don't like wiring wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website