Replacement hot end for SD3 (Page 1 of 2)

I would recommend an all metal hot end.  Unfortunately you will most likely have to make some firmware changes as they can run much hotter than the stock unit.  That being said I like the E3D's you can order them from elmoret at http://www.filastruder.com/products/all … e3d-hotend
They aren't exactly plug and play but the process isn't too painful.  If you don't want to change thermistor types you can reuse your current thermistor on the E3D.  I don't recommend it but have done this myself with no real problems.  The biggest issue is the max temp in the firmware as the E3D has the thermistor located properly and so you'll be operating near max temp of I think SD used 220 degrees.  As long as you operate just below that cut out though it will print fine.  The nice part is Tim gets them out quickly and he always provides great customer service.

Just this:

http://www.filastruder.com/products/law … solidoodle

Also, here's a coupon code that will make that ^ free:

B9GP70H7LSFE

Thanks guys. Trigger on E3DV5 + MK5 has been pulled.

Quick followup question:
What adhesive should i use to glue in the thermistor on e3d? Will JBweld hold up for the job? It states up to 550f so might be pushing its limits with 300C capable hotend... Any better suggestions?

Thanks ahead

I am thinking of using clay to fill up the hole and caption around the body. Was looking for high temp epoxies, but the only one i could find is the 3M 1000c epoxy. Did not buy it b/c vendor wanted me to create account on their site... ugh, so annoying...

6 hours, 3 burnt fingers and a lot of frustration later, Israelis got my money.

Received my E3d yesterday.
Assembled it with no issues, although fan mount is very loose on heat sink.
Updated firmware on SD3 with no issues. And that is where the problems started:
The hot end id not fit into supplied extruder, so i actually ended up mounting it up side down, because it did fit that way. any ways, after unbolting the extruder and taking out the hot end i filled off the excess ABS which was preventing hot end fitting in the correct way. Who ever is printing these extruders, check your z-axis calibration... After fussing with the extruder/hotend mounting, filling some ABS off with a rasp i ended up squeezing hot end into xtruder, but due to excess pressure, i broke the fan... No big deal, 9v battery and 80mm fan can be a temp fix...
OK, now we in business, i thought. Connected the electronics, powered the thing up, reading ambient temp at ambient, good. time to warm things up. Placed 80mm fan near hot end, cooling the hot end warmed it up to 225C and shoved some ABS in it. Lo and behold it is extruding, but at about 10 times slower than it should. OK, no biggie, i'll calibrate it and play with tension arm.  After trying multiple tensions and extruding some ABS my calibration results were shocking, i went from 108 steps per mm to 1500 steps per mm. Needless to say stepper motor does not like that... Ok, disassemble again and try to use different bolt on the bearing to improve tension. That works. Now my arm is not all the way pressed against the bracket, just t o make contact with the stepper wheel. I had to force a bigger screw into the tension arm, actually cracking one side, the screw that fits well is too thin to properly hold the circular bearing...
OK, how we are all in business, except, no. The toothed gear on the stepper is now filled with abs it chewed off in last 6 hours, so it just slides along the fillament, instead of feeding it. And ofcourse the little dinkey piece of ABS that is supposed to hold the hot end in place got too toasty and is now so loose that the hot end of  my hotend has about 0.5 inches of play in it.

And that is why isralies got my money for all metal extuder+hotend.

Overall i must say that e3d v5 hotend feels solid and worthy the $70, but it needs a real fan mount and a real extruder, not printed in a rush parts that shipped with it. Not complaining, the extruder i got was free, so can't complain, but it was just low enough quality that it ruined my experience with e3d hot end. E3D needs a real, laser cut or CNC cut mount and a proper mounted fan adapter.

Ordered from fillastruder. I got it for free, so can't complain, and am not complaining, but you should check he calibration on your printer. Looking at the grey abs print, i can't tell if it i X or Y axis, but it's one of those, not Z as i thought before.

As far as the design is concerned, would probably be a good idea to split the bottom part where hot end attaches to, into 2 parts that bolt together. The small swing arm to hold the hot end just does not have enough OOHMF to do it.

Don't take my comments harshly, I may be a bit too picky; i work for aviation industry, so i am used to things fitting together to 1000th of an inch tolerance.

During a rediculusly high speed print of 12 I had one batch that had a belt come loose an caused some overshoot.  Most of those I checked but obviously not that one.  That being said there are a lot of people using those.  So far your the only one with any issue.   I am not sure I understand when you say 1/2 inch wobble in every direction.  I am no stranger to the aviation industry and based on your description you are doing something wrong.  Nothing should be flimsy and ABS should flow like butter.  Maybe you should take a picture or two and we can narrow down your issues.

You definitely have something not right with that mount.  Could you pull the E3D out and send a picture of the the groove of the MK-5?

attached

Yeah, no worries, it was a free extruder and so i really have no basis to complain or be unhappy. Pretty much the only reason i posted my "issues" is to function as a "possible route for things to go wrong" and to help to improve the design.

Based on my current experience here are my suggestions:
1. Make the plate that holds the extruder from wood or other rigid material. Some structural epoxies could do the trick and be quick to mass produce (5 to 10 minute demold time). May be CNC a piece of aluminum and sell it for $20.
2. Make the "extruder - hot end" mating connection of 2 bigger chunks, not a small swing arm as it is in current design. I'd say cut the bottom piece into 2 halves.
3. While playing with extrusion characteristics of the printer making these would improve the looks, i don't think it would dramatically improve the stability; its just too small and soft of a mating surface.
4. Improve fan mount hot end mating design. Yeah i realize a drop of super glue can stop it from spinning, but may be build fan mount into extruder body or have it as a bolt on attachment to the body; this will extend extruders supporting structure and reduce the moment arm advantage of the hot end.

ABS gets "soft" above 100C and with this hot end being used at 300C the top can get pretty toasty even with fan on full power.

This is not true. If you're using the supplied fan, the top fin will not rise above room temperature, even at 300C.