1 Topic by AZERATE (edited by AZERATE 2014-04-10 15:38:02)

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Topic: E3D oozing

Whilst examining an active print the other day, I noticed a black goop rising out of the top of the heating block. Once my (substandard) red SD filament started contorting, I cancelled the print fearing a clog. But that isn't the problem. E3Ds are much easier to clear a clog it seems. But my problem is this:
I cannot unscrew to heat break OR nozzle. I can only assume it is due to a slight crack or minute gap in the break. Has anyone else had this problem?

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2 Reply by wardjr

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Re: E3D oozing

AZERATE wrote:

Whilst examining an active print the other day, I noticed a black goop rising out of the top of the heating block. Once my (substandard) red SD filament started contorting, I cancelled the print fearing a clog. But that isn't the problem. E3Ds are much easier to clear a clog it seems. But my problem is this:
I cannot unscrew to heat break OR nozzle. I can only assume it is due to a slight crack or minute gap in the break. Has anyone else had this problem?

I have had this happen on my first E3D and it is caused by not following the proper procedure to tighten the nozzle to the heat break.  Remember that max temperature thing you couldn't get working?  It isn't a big problem just heat it up and then take it apart.

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3 Reply by AZERATE (edited by AZERATE 2014-04-10 16:04:52)

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Re: E3D oozing

I thought that may have been a possibility.
Since I had firmware issues, I waited till I slapped the Sang on, then did the heat up. Tightened smooth. I cleared a clog a couple weeks ago and now that I think about it, I don't think I did the heat tightening... hmm
Think that may be the source of my problem?

Got the break, block, and nozzle (stuck together) sitting in acetone during the workday to try and get that gunk out.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
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4 Reply by wardjr

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Re: E3D oozing

Actually if you think back I had done the same on my first E3D for the same reason.  It was so easy to clean up though that I don't think I ever did the proper heat up on that one.  The only other time I have had that happen was when the fan stopped working early into a six hour print.  That was on one that had the proper heat up install procedure and it made it about 5 1/2 hours before it failed.  You seem to like acetone but I prefer (initially) heat.  Then I follow up with acetone for final clean up.
Since it is off the machine already you could probably just heat it up enough with just a lighter if you don't have a torch handy.  Just put the heat right on the nozzle once you get that out you should be able to spin the block off the heat break.
The other thing is pull the nozzle off and heat then use the correct diameter drill bit to just push that plastic out of the way.

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5 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D oozing

Thank you, all knowing entity of all that is E3D! big_smile

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6 Reply by wardjr

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Re: E3D oozing

Experience leads to good judgment.  In order to gain experience you have to have bad judgment.
So what your saying is I have  experience because I have made  bad decisions. smile
This works for me.
I say try everything once and learn from it.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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7 Reply by Serin

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Re: E3D oozing

I suppose I should thank you, Azerate, for showing me that I should probably work out how to edit firmware for that final tightening step before getting on with printing tongue
Cheers man!

This is a crowd funding thing that I'm running: http://www.gofundme.com/bvi140 It's for pretty selfish reasons tongue

8 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D oozing

wardjr wrote:

I say try everything once and learn from it.

Indeed. Like last night I learned that the nozzle is not like the stock SD nozzle, and can shear right off! Won't try that again! big_smile

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

9 Reply by wardjr

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Re: E3D oozing

And sometimes we make our own LUCK wink

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

10 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D oozing

Aaaaannnddd sheared off the heat break. hmm
Good thing I already ordered it in case I could salvage it.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

11 Reply by wardjr

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Re: E3D oozing

AZERATE wrote:

Aaaaannnddd sheared off the heat break. hmm
Good thing I already ordered it in case I could salvage it.

Nice work smile This isn't the first time steroids have messed things up for you.  Just messing with ya big_smile

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

wardjr's Website

12 Reply by jabba400

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Re: E3D oozing

Yeah, I did that with the stock SD2 nozzle.  Much more cautious with the E3D nozzle and heat break.  Acetone not much good at loosening for oozing ABS, heat works much better.  I remove from carriage, then heat up to 230+, using welding gloves to (very poorly) hold tools and / or block while I undo heat break and nozzle.  Use a locking nut pair on the heat break (having re-discovered the joys of trying to refit pliers-damaged threads into E3D heatsink).

13 Reply by AZERATE

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Re: E3D oozing

jabba400 wrote:

Yeah, I did that with the stock SD2 nozzle.  Much more cautious with the E3D nozzle and heat break.  Acetone not much good at loosening for oozing ABS, heat works much better.  I remove from carriage, then heat up to 230+, using welding gloves to (very poorly) hold tools and / or block while I undo heat break and nozzle.  Use a locking nut pair on the heat break (having re-discovered the joys of trying to refit pliers-damaged threads into E3D heatsink).

Thank you for that! I just received my replacement parts this morning so I am anxious to get my doodle back up and running tonight. I will certainly make a note for your comment.

I did notice that the new heating block I got only has one thermistor hole, whereas my original had one on each side. I know this wouldn't effect anything, but I am now curious as to if all new v5 E3Ds have this insiginifacnt change or if it were because I bought a spare part.

...like it matters

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

14 Reply by grob

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Re: E3D oozing

AZERATE wrote:

I know this wouldn't effect anything, but I am now curious as to if all new v5 E3Ds have this insiginifacnt change or if it were because I bought a spare part.

...like it matters

I bought my E3D earlier in the year, and it only has one thermistor hole.
I reckon it could be a touch deeper than it is too.

I've also been wondering - what's the small diameter through-hole right next to the core for? Looks to me like an excellent place to put the thermistor, much closer to the heat core and way inside the block... Kapton on the leads, fill that up with high-temp RTV sealant and stick it in there... Am I missing something here?

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