1 (edited by Accessdenied 2014-03-25 09:47:49)

Topic: Problems with filament lines sticking...

Well, I don't have any ideas anymore. I am absolutely stucked.
Tried 100 times XY calibration - horizontal back rod is not moving from side to side, seems to be stable, also tried 100 times to tight all belts - for both Y and also X (it was too loosen)......... Nothing helps. Seems that belt tight does a little job, something changes with back rod and Y belt calibration, but small changes.... I am very frustrated. Can't do normal prints. Some perimeters are not conencted and filament also sometimes is connected, but sometimes is not connected with itself. With some regularity in particular places.
See pic. added.
What should I do, try another 100 times to calibrate XY, belts and so on?
Perhaps rod is not straight? How can I figure out where is the problem?

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2

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

Try loosening the belt from the Y-motor to the shaft.  Yes it will induce some backlash but it is a simple test.  If your problem improves then you are deflecting that Y-cross shaft to much and may want to consider the bearing pillow block upgrade.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

Ok, I will try this tomorrow again..
But there is also one problem, that axle boxes are not able to slide on the road closer to center that one point, so it's also hard to make XY calibration, because their sefl calibration is emparrassed.

2wardjr
What is bearing pillow block upgrade? Any manuals or pics of details you mean?

4

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

Try this.
http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4824/how … -for-ever/

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

5

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

wardjr
Well, I did this mode. Conclusion that it wasn't cheap mode with all non-standart size  bearings. Now y axle is perfect, absolutely stable and straight. Also I needed to polish y rod because bushings didn't move slightly..
http://www.bildites.lv/images/yjukyskjv11ly3fxpojl.jpg
But problem still actual. I think there is a problem with X axle.
And yesterday I started to hear strange noize from X stepper motor.
Here it is: https://www.dropbox.com/s/h0z59kog8hlet … 0sound.mp4
And also I realise that this motor is very hot and seems that sound appears only when it becomes to be hot and doing small moves during the printing.
Whan you can say about this, is this motor close to its death?

6

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

I could indeed be a sign of a failing motor.  Have you tried adjusting the VREF for that stepper?  It is more likely that the VREF is not at the correct voltage and therefor your motor will get hot.  My X-motor is currently in the process of failing and until my replacement arrives I have been able to keep it running with additional cooling.  I also readjusted the stepper driver by sound until I got the smoothest operation possible.  I even replaced the stepper driver as a process of elimination.  So for now I am able to print smaller jobs as it won't survive a long print.  It starts to moan and groan and skip after about an hour.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

7 (edited by Accessdenied 2014-04-10 12:50:24)

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

I measured blue and green wires for X stepper and it was 0,449 V , so is it ok?
As I can read here: http://www.soliforum.com/topic/459/soli … iciencies/ it should be 0,443V.
Or how to measure Vref?
And how to adjust Vref?

P.S. How print looks like with those gaps at this moment: http://www.bildites.lv/images/w23i0avogo9jlh5dutqg.jpg

8

Re: Problems with filament lines sticking...

There are four stepper drivers on the board.  Each of those has a small pot that can be adjusted with a small screwdriver.  I usually adjust them my ear one motor at a time until is sounds as smooth as possible.  Adjusting these takes very small movement of the pot.  You wont hurt anything unless you short something else on the board.  Find the driver for that axis and adjust while moving the motor for that axis.  You'll know if it's too low as the motor will stop and too high it will groan.
You can measure the VREF's right on the metal of the pot to ground but I have had better real world results by adjusting by ear.  Printing curved parts like the one in the photo is always going to reveal a flaw in calibration.  So if you get it printing good for that then regular shapes will be a breeze.  You could also mess with the flowrate slider in R-H to see if slightly over extruding will help as a work around until you get things dialed in.  Or change the orientation of the part by 90 degrees.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions