1 (edited by Ski52 2014-03-18 02:47:14)

Topic: Now what needs to be adjusted?

Finally got my SD2 back together after a blockage and nozzle replacement.  I had to take apart the jigsaw and as such figured the first thing I would replace would be the jigsaw.  Trying to print the tension arm from the Lawsy Mk5 as a start.   
I hopefully attached a photo of what I got!

I'm using PLA 1.75

Why the corkscrew fine lines, why the stack lines, and when it got to the top, it was 'mushy', but I let it finish. 
Finally got no problems sticking, but acquired a few more.

I don't know how to adjust the filament tension knob.

I'm gonna try again tomorrow with 180 filament, and leave the 88 bed alone.  Had the filament to 190.  Would too high a temp cause the top section to get deformed like this?

The second pic is a part I printed before the clog and disassembly.

Where do I need to go now?

TIA

Ski

(need to figure out how to make these pics a little smaller in size!)

Post's attachments

IMG_0725.JPG
IMG_0725.JPG 204.91 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

IMG_0727.JPG
IMG_0727.JPG 214.88 kb, file has never been downloaded. 

You don't have the permssions to download the attachments of this post.
Ender 3 Pro

2

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

On the tension arm you can use your acrylic one with the MK-5.  PLA is most likely not going to hold up to the task at hand.  That being said you need to slow way down on small areas of a print such as the top of the tension arm.  The plastic needs enough time to cool before the next layer goes on or it will mush out like that.  The only way around slowing way down is to install a fan.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

... or print multiples of the item at the same time, which will also elongate the layer print times.. just spread them out a little bit on the bed too which adds time due to the need to go back and forth between the pieces.... Bonus is you get multiple spares in less time than it takes to print discreet parts...

4

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

wardjr wrote:

On the tension arm you can use your acrylic one with the MK-5.  PLA is most likely not going to hold up to the task at hand.  That being said you need to slow way down on small areas of a print such as the top of the tension arm.  The plastic needs enough time to cool before the next layer goes on or it will mush out like that.  The only way around slowing way down is to install a fan.

Yup. When printing PLA, a fan is your best friend.
I have had a better experience printing PLA, but you really need to print ABS for extruders. Over time, the PLA will soften. And since the part in specific is a tension arm, you will need not only the heat resistance of ABS, but also it's strength. I printed several backup parts, and the PLA filament guide I made only lasted a couple weeks before it started to sag.
Good idea switching extruders. The Jigsaw design was garbage.

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

5

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

Ski52 wrote:

Why the corkscrew fine lines, why the stack lines, and when it got to the top, it was 'mushy', but I let it finish. 
Finally got no problems sticking, but acquired a few more.

You're seeing moire (http://www.soliforum.com/topic/4759/new … -problems/).  Try turning your extruder stepper vref down to minimize it.

It looks like you're printing too hot.  With some PLA and the stock hotend, I had to print down around 160.  YMMV

I'm using a PLA printed MK5 with an E3D and have no problems with sag.  Though I have yet to print any ABS with it.

6

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

3d-oodler wrote:

I'm using a PLA printed MK5 with an E3D and have no problems with sag.

Interesting. What temps are you running?

Printit Mason and Printit Horizon printers
Multiple SD2s- Bulldog XL, E3D v5/v6/Lite6, Volcano, Hobb Goblin, Titan, .9 motor, Lawsy carriages, direct Y drive, fishing line...the list goes on
Filawinder and Filastruder #1870.....worth every penny!

7

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

Last few prints have been with JustPLA @ 205, but that's with the E3D's more accurate temp reading rather than the stock hotend's 30C under-read.

Sainsmart PLA seems to print best about 10C cooler.

FWIW I believe I printed the MK5 with 90%+ infill.  That was with Sainsmart as well.

8

Re: Now what needs to be adjusted?

Odd thing here, I use  a E3D and have to run this PLA at 220C or I get a lot of skipping.

SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.