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Topic: Getting A Finished Top Layer?

I printed this yesterday at .1 mm with .15 infill. Everything turned out great except for the top layer. Is it just a matter of more infill? Is there a way to have, let's say, the final 3 layers print solid to save on time abs material used with more infill? As it is, this took about 7 hours, so I can only imagine what increasing the infill will do.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h33/wkevingossett/20140211_185400_zps5uth2rw9.jpg

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Re: Getting A Finished Top Layer?

Just set the top layers higher in your profile.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

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Re: Getting A Finished Top Layer?

I've found that the really thin .1mm layers have a really hard time going down smoothly on top of infill patterns. They catch on the edges and curl up and leave gaps. You might actually get a better quality print with .2 or .3.

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Re: Getting A Finished Top Layer?

Claghorn wrote:

You might actually get a better quality print with .2 or .3.

this

SD2 with E3D, SD Press, Form 1+
Filastruder
NYLON (taulman): http://www.soliforum.com/topic/466/nylon/

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Re: Getting A Finished Top Layer?

When printing at .1 mm layer heights you have to keep the amount of top solid material the same as at .3. This means if you normally have 3 layers of top solid layers @ .3mm layer heights, you should have 7-9 top solid layers at .1mm . Also, cooling fans help with bridging and top layers. Other fixes are to increase infill to make the gaps smaller.

SD3 w/ mods:
Glass bed with QU-BD heat pad upgrade, threadless ballscrew w/ 8mm smooth rod, spectra line belt replacement, lawsy MK5 extruder, Lawsy replacement carriage, E3D hotend, Ramps 1.4 w/ reprap discount controller, DRV8825 drivers, 12v 30A PS, Acrylic case, Overkill Y-idlers, Filament alarm, Extruder fan + more.