SD3 logic board DEAD !! (Page 1 of 2)

have you done a reset on it?

Highest potential wins... so... its dead jim. No short neccesary.. you just turned the 5V bus into a 12V bus.. AVRs are hardy, but not that hardy. More importantly on a Sang - FTDI chips are really not that hardy at all (the one on the underside of the sang) I suspect this will have cooked some bonding wires internally as well.. most likely given even a cooked AVR will still connect via USB as the FTDI handles all USB and only talks to the AVR via serial after the USB connection is made .

And then theres the whole current side of things.........

Look for (often) a small pin hole on the AVR. It might be there, but not necessarily and ditto the FTDI (the pinhole is from the internal diode going pop...)

You can pull out the AVR and breadboard it to test it - all you need is 2 small capacitors (22pf normally) and a 16mhz crystal or resonator. Even without the crystal, it'll start up, but its PWM wont be worth squat as the timing will well and truly be out the window.. but it should still boot just slowly. You can use any USB to serial type adapter plugged straight in to the AVR's TX/RX pins, which are also accessible on the Sanguinololu near the USB port. That again will let you know if its just the FTDI chip, or the entire AVR.

You can try reflashing - but if USB comms is AWOL, it wont come back till the FTDI is bypassed (you can keep using any old USB->Serial adapter via the TX/RX pins to the AVR).

Quick fix if the AVR is intact; USB to Serial adapter and just reset the comports on the PC as required for the new USB->Serial.
If the AVR is dead to, you can buy a new one for ~$5 delivered, and replace that reflash it and use USB->Serial adapter
You can replace the FTDI232, but its a PITA to solder if you aren't comfortable with SMD work...
After that its a new board.

After all that is sorted, then its onto the Drivers. The drivers take 5V, and chances are they will all be toast to. The fact all motors are on solid means that they are simply 'enabled' and spitting out holding torque, which is default state - basically I'm just saying you can't diagnose them just yet as a dead AVR wont pull 'enable' to low, so wont disable the motors, so they wont move with power. Once the AVR is sorted, then you can try and see if any Drivers survived.

Long story short - if you are comfortable with electronics, you can probably salvage what you have and maybe have to replace the drivers. If you aren't comfortable with electronics - might be far easier at this stage to chalk it up as lesson learned, buy a Rumba (or RAMPS, but Rumba is far superior and has more MOSFETs) and have all the fan outputs you could want. I have a spare sang w/ drivers I'd offer you for $20+shipping, but it would take 2weeks to get to you and cost $20 in shipping

Congrats... the HV would indeed have zapped the contents... check all the pins to make sure. Surprised the FTDI survived since it doesn't normally like much more than its spec voltage... so cool.

same source code for the printrboard, just change the board type in arduino after loading the teensy board profiles and edit the configuration.h to reflect the board type (81? meh.. can't remember.. its in the file...)

You then have to copy the .hex file with hidbootloader (not xloader)

Out on road, so brief. Both are detailed on firmware update page on wiki.  Profiles for teensy++ from pjrc.com and hidbootloader from lincomatic. You can skip all the firmware download stuff.. just profiles and hidbootloader app is all you need..

If you want to keep using an Arduino IDE from 2010, and an avrdude from 2007... sure.
Otherwise, there is no reason to not download 1.05 or 1.5, and simply install the teensy profiles from pjrc (its a one-file install....)

The desperate clinging to 022 arduino IDE's is going to bite the entire 3d print community in the ass in a big way one day....  Just sayin'.... It's like suggesting to someone that they should install Windows XP on a brand new computer   (given Arduino 022 is like 8 versions old.... Windows 95/Windows 3.11 is probably a closer comparison - either way, thats a LOT of bugfixes in the compiled code and all (which is what changes with arduino IDE/avrdude - its not just about what changes in the IDE ... )

(The only place 022 was neccesary was a short lived bug in LCD/SD libraries related specifically to older Sangs.. beyond that, there is no reason except paranoia within certain parts of the extended community (and reluctance due to the now well solved Arduino >= 1.0 library changes - Back in 2011! - now all well dealt with) that prevents everyone using 1.0+....)

<endeth personal rant about the pointless milking of old versions of arduino IDE's.... sorry, but this one really bugs me...>

did you hold shift when you clicked upload in arduino.o22? i had problems untill i did that  something about compiling for verbose output?  the printrboard was dificult for me to navigate at first, im glad i ditched it n' got a new board

I went looking for that as well, and I think I found everything.

I went here:
http://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensyduino.html

Here you can download the Teensyduino.exe add-on.  When you run this, it will as to install itself into the Arduino folder.  Once that's done, run the Arduino app, then go to Tools/Board and select Teensy++.  They have 2 versions, and I'm not sure which one I should use, 1.0 or 2.0.

I selected the 2.0 in my case, and the opened up the Soludoodle Marlin example and started modifying the configuration.h.  Again, I need some input from the guys that are familiar with this.  Here is what I mofiofied so far.

#define MOTHERBOARD 81 //{SD Patch}

Under Additional Features I enabled

/#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console

I compiled the sketch, and at the end of the compilation, it automatically started the Teensy loader, which said the size of the sketch was larger than the maximum.  BUt if you look at the bottom of the compilation log, it says:
Binary sketch size: 78,434 bytes (of a 130,048 byte maximum)

So I don't think this is a problem.  This is perhaps why Adrian said not to bother with the Teensy uploader but to use Bootoader HID instead.

At this stage, I'd like to get more input from Adrian (or anyone else who know about this stuff), before I flash the sketch into my Printrboard.  I still have a bunch of questions:

How do I enable the extruder fan control?  I know the Printrboard is capable (it work on my Printrbot Simple).
Did I use the correct version of the Teensy board?
For enabling the SD carad, did I enable the correct line?
If I wanted to enable an LCD, which one do I enable? can I enable both  ULTRA_LCD and DOGLCD?
Is there anything else I have to enable (or disable)?

Once I have to HEX file, how do I use Bootloader HID?  It appears I have to install the bootloader first, then flash the firmware hex file.  But my board already has a built-in bootloader.  I'd like some more instructions.

Ok, the Printrboard I have is a clone from Geeeteck.com, and it's rev. D.  I'm not 100% sure, but I think the bootloader is a CDC.  How can I find out for sure?

Based on this information, do I need to make any other changes?

PS.  Check out this board.  It doesn't have any mounting holes

Quick way to check CDC bootloader:

Follow this: http://learn.adafruit.com/usbtinyisp/avrdude

But once avrdude is installed (if not already) use this command in CMD window:

avrdude -c avr109 -P COM# -p at90usb1286 -U flash:r:test.hex:i

Before typing that command, you will have to short the boot pins, press the reset button, and find out which COM port the CDC driver is attached to and replace the COM# with that.

Also, that GEEEtech board will NEED a jumper underneath for the MOSFET power. The trace they used is woefully undersized:

You will also have to reverse all of your motor connector pins as the header polarizors are backward compared to the SD ones. Oh, and you will have to run your own 12V lines for the fan and LEDs.

The good news is that the clone works with the LCD and on-board SD card reader. You will have to move your Y-endstop to the E-endstop and redefine your pin in the configuration.

Did you install the .inf file for the CDC loader, and attach the printrboard in bootloader mode (with jumper installed) and then checked in device manager all the drivers are installed ?

OK. So there are two parts of the MCU memory: The standard part (where the printer firmware goes) and the bootloader part. When you run the bootloader, it will overwrite the standard memory area but not the bootloader area. So, you may have corrupted the firmware that was on the standard area, but the bootloader will still be there.

Remember, you have to have the jumper on the boot pins next to the MCU, then press the reset button. Your computer will recognize the CDC USB device (the bootloader) and assign it a COM port in your device manager.