1 (edited by AngersRevenge 2013-12-17 17:58:49)

Topic: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

I have had my SD2 for about a week so am still new to a lot of info.

The issue: I have placed glass on the heat bed and readjusted the Z stop. After homing the Z axis, when using the park button (which is set to lower the bed all the way down), the bed makes a struggling sound as if it is still trying to continue down in the Z axis but can't because it is at the limit of the Z screw (I'm thinking that's what it's called).

Extra Info: I am using Repetier Host and Slic3r. All testing has been done after homing the Z axis. I can not reproduce the issue when manually adjusting the bed height. The Z stop is set to have the extruder .3mm above the bed and compensated for the thickness of the glass. The X and Y axis are fine but the Z axis acts as if it is still trying to travel down when physically at it's max travel when using park.

Do I need to shrink the print bed height in the settings? If you guys need more info to help me diagnose the issue I'll be glad to provide as much as possible. Thanks in advance.

2

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

AngersRevenge wrote:

I have had my SD2 for about a week so am still new to a lot of info.

The issue: I have placed glass on the heat bed and readjusted the Z stop. After homing the Z axis, when using the park button (which is set to lower the bed all the way down), the bed makes a struggling sound as if it is still trying to continue down in the Z axis but can't because it is at the limit of the Z screw (I'm thinking that's what it's called).

Extra Info: I am using Repetier Host and Slic3r. All testing has been done after homing the Z axis. I can not reproduce the issue when manually adjusting the bed height. The Z stop is set to have the extruder .3mm above the bed and compensated for the thickness of the glass. The X and Y axis are fine but the Z axis acts as if it is still trying to travel down when physically at it's max travel when using park.

Do I need to shrink the print bed height in the settings? If you guys need more info to help me diagnose the issue I'll be glad to provide as much as possible. Thanks in advance.

While your z-axis is moving towards the hot end if you reach in and hit that switch does it stop the bed?
It sounds like your switch isn't working. 

Also .3 is too much and I know there is a lot of info about how to calibrate the Z height.  It is often better to just try and adjust and try again, adjust and try again.  If you pick a simple print job and have it do a loop about 15mm before you can usually tell by how well that sticks if you have it were it needs to be.  All of this is assuming the bed is also level to the hot end.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

3

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

Are you printer setting in RH like this picture?

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SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

4

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

Wardjr:

The Z limit switch works as intended. I have pressed the switch a couple times and it stop the Z movement as expected. The issue is when the bed is moving down not up. When moving up it hits the Z limit switch and stops. I can assume that the printer knows when to stop down Z travel by reading the bed height settings and moving that far from where it hits the Z stop. Which is why I thought changing the bed height might fix it.

The bed is level using the paper method. Plan on getting a dial indicator soon and using that. For the Z height, I read on google groups something to the effect of measuring the skirt from a print, comparing that to what is set for the first layer height, and adjusting as needed.

Satman-49:

I currently at work and don't have access to my comp. What I do remember is that X max is set to 159 and Y max is 150 (Solidoodle 2 has a 150x150 print area so X is 9 mm beyond the bed). Everything else is the same expect, I can't remember what is selected for Printer Type (I think it's labled as Solidoodle 2, from the manufacter's downloaded settings). also, I don't recall seeing an option for dump area though. I've read Ian Johnson's arcticle that included dump areas and thought it was odd that my version of Repetier didn't have the option.

5

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

When you get in front of your PC take a look at what SATMAN-49 shows for print area height and if its at 200 try 150 and see if it stops correctly.   I have an SD3 and you have an SD2 If I am not mistaken your X,Y & Z should be 150 not 200 like the SD3
As far as the dial indicator goes that's is up to you but it is not necessary and just look at the skirt and make sure it is squished enough to stick.  I have found that all the other methods will get you close but trail and error will dial it in just the way you want it.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

6

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

I apologize but I am unfamiliar with SATMAN-49. You are correct in that SD2 is 150mm cubed. I do recall that the printer settings are 150mm (with X being 159) and the print area is all set to 150 in Slic3r. I will double check when I get a chance. Thanks for your advice. I might need to double check the Z offset again but that still doesn't explain why I am getting the excessive travel in the downward Z movement (150mm of Z axis). ). 0.3mm or even 3mm would be far less than how far it sounds like the Z is trying to move. It might not be a Z travel issue as I am thinking. I'll trouble shoot some more as soon as I can and see if it the noise isn't coming from somewhere else than I had originally thought.

7

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

AngersRevenge wrote:

I apologize but I am unfamiliar with SATMAN-49.

Look at the post from user satman-49 about 5 posts up big_smile
If your bed and carriage is hitting something (like the bottom of the printer) because it is trying to go to far down than you have the Z height set too high.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions

8

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

Gotcha, I must have missed it. I run back and reread it.

9

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

wardjr wrote:

Look at the post from user satman-49 about 5 posts up big_smile

Wow, I feel like a dumb a** for missing that. I even responded to him in a previous post but got totally lost when you mentioned him.

Anyhow, the settings was originally set to L_CARTESIAN_PRINTER (from the factory download settings, pic 1). I changed it to L_CARTESIAN_PRINTER_DUMP (pic 2). Still have the issue.

After additional trouble shooting, I now know it does it anytime it goes to the bottom after hitting the z stop switch. Once it has hit the bottom (and makes the grinding noise) it doesn't do it again until I raise the bed and let the screw press the z stop switch. If I press the z stop switch without letting it go completely to the top and hit the screw, it doesn't do it when the bed is lowered either manually or with park.

The thing is, I can't raise the stop screw anymore without hitting the glass bed and breaking it or the damaging the hotend. It's gotta be the z screw. I changed the park position to 140 and it didn't make any noise.

Now that I think of it, I could always lower the bed using the leveling screw which would give me more clearance for the hot end and z stop screw adjustment. Wish me luck, hoping it works.

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10

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

Yea, it worked. Lowering the bed with the leveling screws allowed me to adjust the stop screw more. The thing is I can't recall reading anywhere that the bed might need to be adjusted. I've always read that only the stop screw needed adjusting.

Thanks for you guys help.  I don't see exactly how to mark this as resolved but consider it fixed. Hope this helps other newbs like me with their first printers.

11

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

opps sorry, I read your 1st post wrong, you have a sd2, that pic was for sd 3

SD3, E3D hotend,linear bearing on x/y axis',pillow block bearing on y conneting rod, ball bearngs on front y axis, fan on y stepper motor.

12

Re: Glass Bed and Z Axis Travel

AngersRevenge wrote:

Yea, it worked. Lowering the bed with the leveling screws allowed me to adjust the stop screw more. The thing is I can't recall reading anywhere that the bed might need to be adjusted. I've always read that only the stop screw needed adjusting.

Thanks for you guys help.  I don't see exactly how to mark this as resolved but consider it fixed. Hope this helps other newbs like me with their first printers.

Glad to hear you figured it out.

Printit Industries Model 8.10 fully enclosed CoreXY, Chamber heat
3-SD3's & a Workbench all fully enclosed, RH-Slic3r Win7pro, E3D V6, Volcano & Cyclops Hot End
SSR/500W AC Heated Glass Bed, Linear bearings on SS rods. Direct Drive Y-axis, BulldogXL
Thanks to all for your contributions