Follow what Adrian said, plus what I would add is don't be afraid to model your own support structures (or contraction mitigation features), making them part of the model. Works wonders for me. Say you have to print some gears for a real life application, and it needs 100% infill for strength. This part will almost always warp on you. Add some simple thru holes and bingo, great success. Or, another way to make a brim that actually works better is to also model your own brim. Let this brim be your sacrificial brim, just make it a few mm in height and 5mm wide, all around your part. Just be sure the connection point from the brim to the part is thin, unless you love carving as a pastime. Many times my sacrificial brims lift, never once have they ruined my print.
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