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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → replacing bed heat pad
I am going to replace it as the current one wont go past 55C. Does anyboby know on a SD3 if it's glued on? I see kapton tape on the edges.
It has adhesive backing and peels off rather easily.
It would be well worth your while to investigate other options for the heated bed.
I went with a solid state relay and a 500W AC silcon 6x9 heat pad that I purchase online. Heats up to 108 in about 30 seconds of course then I need to let the heat soak for about a minute to get through the glass evenly.
To date it has been the best modification I have made and only cost me about $80 for everything.
thanks for the info. I am planning to upgrade it in the near future. lol Someone was giving away one here . It's a temp fix
Do you think a 400 watt pc psu would work?
toss in a Solid State Relay and the bed heater load is removed from your current power supply and transferred to AC. That was one of the reasons I went that way. The power supply that comes with the SD3 is maxed out all the time if it has to power that bed heater.
You can (and I have) use a simple 12V 30 amp automotive style relay but it is annoying to listen to it clicks on and off all the time. As far as your question about the psu explain more about how you are thinking about hooking that up?
it's rated at 12v@28A , shouldn't that run the whole machine?I was going to take one of the HD 12v leads and use that.
what part number was that AC heater, relay, and PSU?
Thanks!
Ordered from Mc-master
35765K482 Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Sheet, Adhesive Backing, 6" X 9" Strip, High Watts/Square Inch $48
8192K222 Long-Life Relay, 12 DC Control Voltage, 10 Amps at 100-240V AC $20
I used the existing thermistor and added 3 more layers of fiber glass (available at any auto parts store) and used another 8" X 8" sheet metal scrap I had laying around to sandwich it all together. I did this to increase the thermal mass and have more consistent temps across the entire bed.
I wish I had put a small circle of fiber glass over the thermistor before I had stuck the new heat pad to the bottom of the bed.
I think this would give more accurate temps during heat-up but once its all up to temp it is fine.
The pad does stick out the sides a little bit but it fits nicely between the screws and I have never had any problems with uneven temps near the front or rear.
it's rated at 12v@28A , shouldn't that run the whole machine?I was going to take one of the HD 12v leads and use that.
It sure would appear to work. If you are planning on staying with a DC pad then more power is a good thing and the stock psu is something like 12v@12A.
Before I switched to the AC heat pad I separated the stock bed heater with a relay and its own power supply.
It helped a bit as far as heat up times but I just didn't like having to wait every time I wanted to print something.
Ordered from Mc-master
35765K482 Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Sheet, Adhesive Backing, 6" X 9" Strip, High Watts/Square Inch $48
8192K222 Long-Life Relay, 12 DC Control Voltage, 10 Amps at 100-240V AC $20I used the existing thermistor and added 3 more layers of fiber glass (available at any auto parts store) and used another 8" X 8" sheet metal scrap I had laying around to sandwich it all together. I did this to increase the thermal mass and have more consistent temps across the entire bed.
I wish I had put a small circle of fiber glass over the thermistor before I had stuck the new heat pad to the bottom of the bed.
I think this would give more accurate temps during heat-up but once its all up to temp it is fine.
The pad does stick out the sides a little bit but it fits nicely between the screws and I have never had any problems with uneven temps near the front or rear.
Bingo! Was looking to see where you posted model numbers! Is it still working well? I was going to go with the QU-BD one but this looks like it would really heat up FAST!
wardjr wrote:Ordered from Mc-master
35765K482 Flexible Silicone-Rubber Heat Sheet, Adhesive Backing, 6" X 9" Strip, High Watts/Square Inch $48
8192K222 Long-Life Relay, 12 DC Control Voltage, 10 Amps at 100-240V AC $20I used the existing thermistor and added 3 more layers of fiber glass (available at any auto parts store) and used another 8" X 8" sheet metal scrap I had laying around to sandwich it all together. I did this to increase the thermal mass and have more consistent temps across the entire bed.
I wish I had put a small circle of fiber glass over the thermistor before I had stuck the new heat pad to the bottom of the bed.
I think this would give more accurate temps during heat-up but once its all up to temp it is fine.
The pad does stick out the sides a little bit but it fits nicely between the screws and I have never had any problems with uneven temps near the front or rear.Bingo! Was looking to see where you posted model numbers! Is it still working well? I was going to go with the QU-BD one but this looks like it would really heat up FAST!
It has been working very well and it does heat up very fast. Just remember to give the heat a chance to soak to the top. maybe a minute.
Are you printing on glass?
At first you'll want to watch it closely and see how we'll it's calibrated.
It will work without a firmware change but I use the following and my temp graph is a nice flat line at 108 so I would recommend at least flashing in these settings since you'll be the first to duplicate this set up.
#ifdef PIDTEMPBED
//120v 500W silicone heater W/SSR
//from pidautotune
#define DEFAULT_bedKp 174.56
#define DEFAULT_bedKi 21.65
#define DEFAULT_bedKd 351.78
Thanks! That is really going to fast track me!! Right now i have to set the bed at 112C in repetier to be able to hit 95C on the bed. Takes forever even with a hot plate holder to insulate it while it heats up (sounds ghetto but sheds minutes off). I will do a before and after timing for fun.
Thanks! That is really going to fast track me!! Right now i have to set the bed at 112C in repetier to be able to hit 95C on the bed. Takes forever even with a hot plate holder to insulate it while it heats up (sounds ghetto but sheds minutes off). I will do a before and after timing for fun.
I tried all those tricks also... heat gun, hot pad, separate power to just the bed and they all helped a little. I decided I needed to try something different and I am so happy with this set up. I love being able to sit down and just print stuff with in a couple of minutes.
You will need to find a cord. I used an old computer cord and cut one end off and crimped female spade connectors to attach to the relay.
It's hard to see in the photo but I used a cord with a ground plug (green wire) and attached that to the chassis. I then attached the Hot (Black wire) to one of the posts on the AC side of the relay (it doesn't matter which one).
This leaves your neutral wire from the cord and the two wires from your heat pad unhooked.
One of the wires from the pad is then connected to the Neutral (white wire) in my case I soldered and covered with the blue heat shrink.
The other wire from the heat pad is then attached to the other post on the AC side of the relay.
To be really safe there should be a ground wire run from the bed frame to the chassis in case the heat pad ever shorted out and the conductor comes in contact with the bed itself. (of course I haven't done that yet!)
Next is the 12v side of the relay...
I simply unplugged the old heat pad from the board (hidden behind the relay in the photo), cut it to the length needed, crimped on spade connectors and plugged them onto the 12v side of the relay.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Help/Repair/Maintenance → replacing bed heat pad
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