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SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → E3D issues.
I have my printer fully assembled for the first time in quite a while. In the last couple of months I have upgraded to the Azteeg X3 board, QU-BD bed, Dell 40 amp power supply, and now, the E3D. When I heat the extruder to my desired temp, 225, it will hold there for a bit and then shoots up to about 360. I have thermistor 1 set in firmware for the hotend and 80 for the bed. Also, the lights flicker when one or both are on.
Any thoughts?
360 is a classic sign of a short circuit on the thermistor somewhere.. check you aren't shorting it on the heater block or the wires together...
I applied some Arctic Silver to the thermistor thinking it may help. I don't think it did. In fact, it is probably what caused the short. I just happened to be in arms reach of the thermistor from my first hotend so I tried it, now everything works.
I would like to know how to enable and utilize the all of the connections on the X3. How do I control D16 / 17 or D4, D5, D6, and D11? I was thinking of just connecting the E3D fan to the same wires as the extruder motor fan but I would rather keep everything separate.
Also, why are the lights flickering?
I applied some Arctic Silver to the thermistor thinking it may help. I don't think it did. In fact, it is probably what caused the short. I just happened to be in arms reach of the thermistor from my first hotend so I tried it, now everything works.
I would like to know how to enable and utilize the all of the connections on the X3. How do I control D16 / 17 or D4, D5, D6, and D11? I was thinking of just connecting the E3D fan to the same wires as the extruder motor fan but I would rather keep everything separate.
Also, why are the lights flickering?
q1: there is an gcode to switch i/o pins, such as:
M42 in Marlin/Sprinter
Example: M42 P7 S255
M42 switches a general purpose I/O pin.S255 allows you to set different PWM (should they be PWM pins).
If you want more than that, you have to hack the firmware directly.
Marlin does support pins in the new firmware I uploaded to act as 'turn on when driver first used, turn off x seconds after last used' which might be worth you looking in to.
Q2: They do that. Its due to the way the PWM circuit on them works to drive the strip. Its indicative of nothing in particular, isn't a fault, and mine do it too...
Wow. I love it when things work on the first try. Thanks for that. There has to be a way to make it so it comes on when powered on instead of g-code. Somewhere in pins.h perhaps?
Also, if I moved the lights to, lets say P6, would the flickering still happen? Is there away to change the pulse width? EDIT: I should ask, is there a way to change to a smoother pulse?
Also, why are the lights flickering?
adrian is probably right and I'm almost always wrong, but for what it's worth: my lights flickered a little before I put on the E3D, then a lot after I put it on, then not at all once I replaced my power supply with this one. I was told at the time it was a consequence of the power running short, and the E3D drawing more power (or making the motors draw more power to pull the extra weight around).
That's a valid explanation in general for flickering, but, in this instance even plugged directly into 40amps before it even gets to the RAMPS (in my case) and RAMPS plus bed plus e3d draws 20amp... I can tell you its not the actual instance here... 
I read somewhere, unless I read it wrong, that these motors can lift 5 lbs. Is that true? Weight is not an issue because I have not moved the motors much. I have yet to run material through it. I would think the lights would stabilize once everything was up to temp. I feel like this is a clue that something is not right, as if it is trying to tell me something.
The main problem I am having now is that I had to make a shim out of 2mm plastic to get any clearance between the E3D heat sink and the extruder mount / X axis with the MK5. Either that or grind down the heat sink fins, which I don't feel like doing.
I feel like this is a clue that something is not right, as if it is trying to tell me something.
Don't buy the cheapest LED strips from the Chinese you possibly can ? 
thats about all its telling you...
The main problem I am having now is that I had to make a shim out of 2mm plastic to get any clearance between the E3D heat sink and the extruder mount / X axis with the MK5. Either that or grind down the heat sink fins, which I don't feel like doing.
I haven't had an issue with any of my Mk5 extruder mounts and either the v4 or v5 e3d (bowden and non-bowden), so I can't hazard a guess where you problem has originated there. Have you checked the tolerances of your prints lately ? Could you post a picture of where the problem is ?
Only problem I ever had was with the Mk4 holder, you had to ditch the left-lower screw.... which doesn't exist on the mk5
This is why I need the spacer.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-53Fe … -no/13+-+1
This is why I need the spacer.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-53Fe … -no/13+-+1
I don't get it.. Looks normal to me? I meant take pix with it assembled and it obvious what's not fitting... Because your pic looks like a normal setup and I can't see where it doesn't fit/align?
He's talking about how the heatsink of the E3D extends beyond the flat face of the lawsy body.
He's talking about how the heatsink of the E3D extends beyond the flat face of the lawsy body.
Yes. I tried grinding some material from the motor mount / x axis but it didn't help. Without the shim the hot end is not straight, it sits a bit diagonal. It seems this is not an issue with Lawsy's x / y carriage or maybe even newer Solidoodles.
so the fins at the back against the bearing mount on the solidoodle OEM x-carriage ? odd... My SD3 from January '13 worked fine using the OEM sled... I guess dimensions have changed slightly...
I have everything mounted just fine but now I am getting wavy lines. The j-head produced silky smooth lines. Is there something in the firmware for this? What am I missing now? Is my extruder motor going bad? It doesn't look like it's rolling smoothly.
Dial the VREF trimpot on the driver for the extruder down slightly, and if it stays stalled, dial it up slightly.. Tiny adjustment makes big difference.
Set Rh to extrude 100mm at 50mm/min to give you a good 2mins to fine tune it. Thats what I do anyway.
Also make sure with the plate in place you have, that the extruder drive Cog is aligned as best as possible to avoid putting excess friction against the walls of the extruder body
I ran into this same issue of the E3D being wider than lawsy's holder. I used washers to offset the head enough to clear the carriage. While I was using the E3D for the first time since getting the mismatch to work out, the filament hole does not line up with the stepper which does not line up with the E3D. I keep getting a small amount of filament being shaved off.
Anyone else have issues with the E3D head shaving filament off?
adrian, thanks, the VREF adjustment did the trick.
wbrandsmeier, no. I have not had issues with shaved material. You are right about filament not feeding straight but it has not caused me any issues. However, I am going to switch back to the MK4 top piece because it is much easier to load the filament from the front as opposed to trying to feed it in through the notch on the side and over the drive wheel.
SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Hacks & Mods → E3D issues.
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