ITman496 wrote:Not during a print at all, just wondering if I have to take apart the jigsaw puzzle to change the nozzle or not, aha.
Now all I need to do is source the nuts nessisary for 2n2r5's version of the M3 Z screw slop-nut thing mod, and then get a more powerful heated bed.
Also, my printer was acting weird earlier. Has anyone ever had their machine just like.. epic fail? The thing would get to temp and then freak out and go TEMP ERROR CALL M999 WHEN RESET or something and then fail hard and bump the stepper endlessly into the end stop. I rebooted it and that fixed it, but it was weird. It kept shutting off the heaters.
The cases when I've seen that m999 error is when I am making repairs or mods to my hot end and have unplugged it. Depending on your firmware, Marlin in my case, if you try to send a command to your printer and something gets unplugged, you get that error. My guess is that you have a loose connection somewhere and the connection 'flickered' mid heat up.
Also, some things I've learned while using a .25 instead of my normal .35 nozzle:
- Very important to have dry filament. You can get away with it on a .35 or larger, but as you leave filament out in the open, it will absorb moisture from the air. This moisture is probably your #1 cause of clogs and gas pockets ruining your print.
- Filament duster, a little piece of cotton or cloth tied around the filament as it enters the extruded block will wipe off any dust from your filament before it enters the hot end. Dust are large particles that don't really melt enough to be squeezed through that little pin hole. If your nozzle gets clogged and absolutely refuses to unclog no matter what, you probably have dust locked in there. This requires a disassembly and a proper cleaning to fix, not fun at all.
- The amount of time needed to print is much longer. Not only because the output is thinner, but because (and this may depend on the extruded you are using) you have to print at a slower speed than you could with another nozzle. The amount of back pressure the .25 adds is much higher, try to print too fast and the extruded might not have the strength or your filament will just refuse to move causing a gear shaped gouge to be dug out of your filament.
- If your filament gets a gouge dug out of it during print, it means the drive gear was not tight enough to pull the filament down. If your filament bunches and gets twisted up, it's too tight.
EDIT: Also, I highly recommend that you get yourself a hobbled bolt or Mini hyena drive gear to extrude your filament. This is basically a drive gear that has a filament sized groove with teeth instead of the typical regular gear drive. This will allow you to use a tighter pressure on the filament drive block, giving an added amount of strength to the pulling power, without causing your filament to snap and break in half because the teeth went all the way through. If you are going to use a .25 nozzle, the added strength will be a great help.
